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2002 Jaguar S-Type 4.0 V8 (VIN SAJDA01P82GM33667) Fuel door Actuator Peg

paharley — Fri, 22 May 2026 15:33:20 GMT

Hi,

I have a 2002 Jaguar S-Type 4.0 V8 (VIN SAJDA01P82GM33667), and my fuel door actuator peg is broken. I want to purchase one of your replacement pegs. Please let me know the price and how to send payment.

I am located in the United States, Prosper, TX 75078.

Thank you,
Patricia Harley
ronsa@ronsignagents.com
(945) 237-4093

2003 instermint cluster question

Darrol2004 — Wed, 20 May 2026 01:28:00 GMT

Hello I am hoping someone has some knowledge about the instrument cluster lcd display and back light
on the wifes 4.2 N/A
I had sent her instrument cluster away to have cold solder joints Repaired
but something is still bugging me
Regarding the lcd display and back light
I was told they need Replacing
as it is hard to see the Warnings / mileage/ect
but you can read what it is saying but you need to move in close
I have emailed that many instrument cluster repair companies its not funny
Always get the same answer can not help or send it to us
But the shipping cost are extreme for example new Zealand to United Kingdom $230.00 one way or to United States
$250.00 one way
So dose anyone know if there are bulbs for the lcd display
or do I need to find a replacement lcd display

I do not have mine at the moment
But have taken some screenshots from the net
first screenshot is what mine looks like even with lights on
dark all the time

Second screenshot is what i thought it should look like
Thanking you
Darrol

2000 stype Neutral Safety Switch Diags

SteveJaguser — Mon, 18 May 2026 17:28:02 GMT

Replaced engine and transmission on our 2000 Jaguar s-type. No crank, no voltage at solenoid during crank. Suspect Neutral Safety Switch. I have searched this forum with no luck in finding a wiring diagram for the NSS nor any diagnostic advice.

S Type 2008 - AC turn on with itself

Black — Wed, 13 May 2026 17:18:36 GMT

Hi
I have Jaguar S-Type 2008
I got problem with key switch (for open and close door mobile), it was dirty inside and low battery, after cleaning it and change the battery I got light break warning (Park Brake Fault) !!
I don't know the reason and how to remove it
Thanks

2002 s-type 3.0l v6 early 2002 model

Gizmo171 — Tue, 12 May 2026 14:22:49 GMT

Hello all,

My first thread attempt.

My wife and I have owned a 2002 Jaguar S-type since November 2001. When a problem occurs the engine light would come on and the code was read. This time I have a periodic hesitation once the car is warm. I had the sealed transmission fluid and filter changed about 6 months ago and the car ran great until 2 months ago when I noticed in gear at a stoplight especially with the air conditioner on a skip. It feels as if it is under my drivers seat.

Question: when changing the trans fluid is the refill 5 quarts? and with changing the filter 6.9 quarts? I changed the filter and only put in 5 quarts. I also read the problem could be low trans fluid, spark plugs, coils, fuel filter, fuel injector, fuel assembly. No engine light, no code.????

any ideas? Thank you

Oscillating Upshift to 4th, then drop out, shift up again

pdr1966 — Mon, 11 May 2026 14:38:58 GMT

Have many things fixed and road testing now.
Generally transmission feels good, but noted going about 60km/hr it upshifts to what I think is 4th, then drops back, and upshifts again, drops back (this is when you are on the verge of suitable speed for 4th).
I haven't driven it faster than this yet.
I'm going to test more to clarify this, thought I'd throw this out for discussion...
P

Brakes Sticking

Stevie66 — Thu, 07 May 2026 09:06:17 GMT

Hi

I recently had the brake servo replaced and on the drive home all four calipers stuck solid. I managed to get a local mechanic to release them and he screwed back the pedal which allows the car to drivce but they still stick slightly. I can release this by slightly lifting the brake pedal which \i don't even notice moving. Recently my wife was driving the car and they stuck on and started to smoke which caused her alarm. This was the first and she says last time she plans to drive the car and is unfortunately along with my two daughters are suggesting strongly I sell the car and get a 'practically' car LOL. Any help would be gratefully accepted. I did go back to the garage who replaced the servo but they said it was not their fault, needless to say I won't be back

Stupid question instrument cluster lcd display

Darrol2004 — Tue, 05 May 2026 11:46:57 GMT

Hi everyone
stupid question
Dose anyone know lf the lcd display back light takes bulbs
My wifes 2004 4.2 has a cluster problem but that has been fixed but now been told you can read the lcd display but it is dark
I was told to get a new replacement lcd display and ribbon
Every instermint cluster repair company i have asked say they can not help
I have also purchased 2 second hand instermint clusters
but they are the same no back light
The person i got repairing my cluster is away for a couple of weeks so thought I could try to find out in the meantime and get whats needed
Thanking you
Darrol

Jaguar S-Type no lights on dash, not starting.

ncole2 — Tue, 05 May 2026 09:39:43 GMT

Hi all,

I am wondering if anyone may be able to offer some assistance, I have owned my 2002 Jaguar S-Type 4.0 V8 pre-facelift for 4 years now but recently it has developed an issue where it is not starting. I put my key in the ignition and turn to the first position and all the warning lights flash up as normal but go out in a split second and does not even attempt to turn over when they key is turned again. I have checked the battery voltage which is normal as well as the earth connection and the fuses in the boot and am now at a loss as to what the issue could be.

2000 Jaguar S-Type 4.0 Booster Pedal Force Switch

Choptank61 — Sat, 02 May 2026 23:19:13 GMT

I have no clue what this alludes to. Is this the actual switch or the booster, which I did not know it even had? Could it have anything to do with DSC failure?

In case you ever wondered, what an S-Type with the rear end of an XJS would look like

Peter_of_Australia — Sat, 02 May 2026 13:03:18 GMT

In case you ever wondered, what an S-Type with the rear end of an XJS would look like... - Like this:

2003 instermint cluster

Darrol2004 — Sat, 02 May 2026 10:25:13 GMT

Hello everyone as some of you know I had no communication with engine control module
on my 2003 str will that is finally sorted

But now the wifes 4.2 N/A had the same problem
It ended up being in the instrument cluster cold soldier joints but also the lcd back light is not working so very hard to see mileage
dose any one know where to get replacement lcd display from or can you charge the back light
Thinking you
Darrol

Poor Battery Charging: Bulkhead Power Stud & Other Electrical Maintenance

Don B — Sat, 02 May 2026 02:19:49 GMT

This 2001 3.0L with 124K miles arrived with the Check Engine Light illuminated. The owner stated that it was running fine and that the battery had been replaced recently. I began with computer diagnostics and found that twenty-eight DTCs were stored, many related to low battery voltage or loss of module communication. The most relevant codes were:

PCM P1260 Theft detected, engine disabled
PCM P1587 Throttle control unit modulated command fault
IPK B1681 Passive Anti-Theft System (PATS) transceiver module signal is not received
B1676 Battery voltage out of range - this was reported by the GEM, REM, and three other modules

When starting the engine, I noticed that the engine cranked and started sluggishly.

I measured the battery resting voltage and it was extremely low at 11.88 volts. I then measured the alternator charging voltage at the battery terminals and it was very low at 13.2 volts. I connected my battery-charging system analyzer and found that the battery capacity was just 597 Cold Cranking Amps. There was no rating label on the battery, but typically H8/Group 49 batteries carry ratings of 850 – 950 CCA, so this battery’s capacity was significantly diminished, possibly due to poor charging.

The alternator output was clean with relatively low AC ripple of just 75 mV, so I suspected high resistance in the battery power and ground circuits between the battery in the trunk and the alternator and starter in the engine bay. This is a very common issue on all Jaguars with batteries in the trunk/boot.

I detached the negative battery cable and inspected the terminal and battery post. Both exhibited white lead oxide corrosion.

I then detached the negative cable ground connection to the inner wheel well by removing the 8 mm screw.

The battery negative cable ground eyelet terminal and screw both exhibited white oxide corrosion. Both lead oxide and aluminum oxide are insulators and inhibit the flow of electrical current.

I cleaned the threaded hole in the body with an M6x1.0 tap sprayed with CRC zero-residue electronic contact spray cleaner.

I detached the positive battery cable and found the terminal and post both covered in oxidation. I cleaned the cable terminals, battery posts and ground screw with battery brushes, a small brass-bristle brush, and contact spray cleaner. For now, I left the battery disconnected.

Next I gained access to the Bulkhead Power Stud by raising the vehicle, removing the front right wheel, detaching the rearward half of the wheel arch liner and folding it forward over the brake rotor.

Upon inspection, I found that a wad of wet, decomposing leaves was wedged above the bulkhead power stud.

I used a pick to clean out most of the leaves. Then for improved access to the stud cover, I cut the zip tie and displaced the electrical harness:

The red plastic power stud cover is secured by three slotted “legs” that must be pried outward until they unclip from wedged tabs. I used a small right-angle pick:

Remove the 13 mm nut and the power cable will pull off of the stud. Both the nut and eyelet terminal exhibited white oxidation.

The threaded stud is now accessible to clean. On the other side of the bulkhead/firewall is a similar connection, though because it is sheltered from weather, it tends to not suffer the same corrosion and contamination as this side.

The small brass-bristle brush and electronic contact cleaner are good for cleaning all these eyelet terminals, threaded studs, nuts, washers, threaded holes, etc.

I don’t know how important the zip tie is for immobilizing the electrical harness, but if you are a thorough mechanic, you’ll replace it. Jaguar didn't bother to cut the end off - it was just routed up into the convenient hole:

The engine ground strap body connection is just below the bulkhead power stud.

I removed the 8 mm screw and inspected the eyelet terminal and screw and found more crusty white oxidation. I cleaned the eylet terminal and nut and used the M6x1.0 tap sprayed with contact cleaner to clean the threaded hole in the body:

The other end of the engine ground strap is connected at the rear engine flange just below the starter motor:

Upon closer inspection, I found that the engine ground strap stud was wet with oily gunk. This is a 13 mm nut.

With the ground strap detached from the engine, it did not appear that the oil had seeped into the electrical contact area covered by the nut flange, but white oxide was clearly visible there.

The other side of the terminal was in similar condition but the white oxide in the electrical contact area was even crustier:

I used the brass-bristle brush to clean away all the oil and oxide and then flushed the terminal with contact cleaner.

For access to the starter and alternator on this 2001 3.0L, a small supplemental wheel arch liner must be removed.

The starter electrical connections are protected by a red plastic cover that just pulls off:

The battery power cable eyelet terminal is secured to the starter by a 13 mm nut. Various tools can work, but I used a �” drive long-handle flex-head ratchet and socket to remove the nut:

The battery power cable eyelet terminal was badly corroded with a trifecta of red rust, white oxide and green copper oxide.

The alternator battery power connection is protected by a rubber boot, which can be pushed up the cable for access to the 12 mm nut.

I accessed the nut with my �” drive long-handled flex-head ratchet and socket.

The alternator power cable eyelet terminal was also covered in white oxide.

After cleaning all of these connections and reassembling, the engine cranked and started noticeably faster. The alternator charging voltage at the battery had increased significantly to 13.77 volts. I put everything back together and took the vehicle for a 20-minute test drive, then measured the battery resting voltage again. In just 20 minutes, it had increased from 11.88 volts to 12.25 volts. I re-scanned the vehicle and only one Climate Control Module heater sensor code recurred. None of the PATS or voltage-related codes recurred.

I do not know if this battery’s capacity will improve, but cleaning all of these battery and ground connections made a measurable improvement in battery charging. Some of these connections did not look terribly "bad," but the resistance added by corrosion on each connection is cumulative, and the loss of more than half a volt of charging voltage at the battery had a very significant adverse effect on this vehicle.

If you have difficult-to-diagnose electrical gremlins, I recommend this service as basic maintenance. If you continue to have electrical gremlins, it may help to also clean the other side of the battery power circuit, at the Clean Power Megafuse, the Secondary Junction Box and the Front Power Distribution Box.

Cheers,

Don

Finding correct replacement brake booster

E-Types and other! — Fri, 01 May 2026 00:35:24 GMT

Hello. My 2006 S-Type needs a new brake booster. I did some research and still managed to get one that was supposed to be correct, but was not!
Pictures show the differences. The remanufactured one has a 5 pin electronic connection and the original has a 4 pin. Also the original�s electrical connection mounts on the round hole that has some sort of vacuum assist apparatus? The remanufactured one has the same hole but no apparatus behind it.
maybe someone has an insightful solution please?
Thanks.

Driver seat module reflashing fail - need new module

Palmes — Thu, 30 Apr 2026 21:03:48 GMT

Hello,
I had trouble with driver seat calibration and I tried reflashing it with the IDS tools but it failed. Now there is no more communication with the module. The passenger seat is working fine.
but the driver seat is fully recline, button are no more working.
I have an STR with the 16 way adjustement.
Can any one tell me the part number of the driver side module ?