Jaguar Forums - Jaguar Enthusiasts Forum - E type ( XK-E )

Automotive engineering at its worst� High low beam switch.

mpawelek — Fri, 22 May 2026 16:44:02 GMT

I noticed when I bought my E-type that the far right rocker switch on the dash panel had no markings and was not electrically connected to anything. Looking it up in one of my books I found that this was the switch to change the headlights from high beam to low beam and back. Just what exactly were the engineers thinking? A switch that far to the right is such a hassle, reaching over there having to change the beams from high to low, etc. multiple times per trip was not very well thought out. I assume designed for the right hand side E Types. Now I know why someone installed another switch for this option on the left-hand side of the steering wheel. Much easier to get to while driving at night. Has anyone else found a handy use for this extra switch?

Anyone Replaced the Rear Window Seals?

mpawelek — Thu, 21 May 2026 21:02:30 GMT

1970 Type II. 2+2. I am getting ready to replace many rubber seals on my Type II that are as hard as a rock and cracked. On the rear window I have the main seal that holds the glass and the two chromed fitted strips that go on the outside. The Moss catalog shows a “locking” seal/strip between the large rubber inner seal and chrome strips but I have it missing though the chrome strips appeared to fit into the bottom gasket just fine. Having never seen this locking seal I wonder if is it really important? Unfortunately it is on back order every place I have tried. I assume I can still fit the large seal that holds the glass and leave the chromed exterior pieces off until I can acquire the “locking strip/seal? Any ideas?

In the catalog the lower seal that holds the glass is #20, the locking strip I am missing #21 and the outer chromed strips #’s 22 and 24.

What Fits On This Bracket?

mpawelek — Mon, 18 May 2026 19:22:40 GMT

1970 Type II 2+2 Left hand drive. I�ve found this bracket on multiple parts drawings attached to the firewall but no part number and never showing anything attached. Ideas please.

Been a while good and bad news

MarkEkberg — Mon, 18 May 2026 19:19:27 GMT

Afternoon all,

Been a while since I was here solicitating advice for my uncle. Well there is good and bad news:

1. His car was finally completed 11/25.
2. Miraculously (Truly a Miracle) we were able to get him in the car and he drove it on 4/4/26
3. Ed passed on 5/5/26.

His wife asked if I would consider bringing his car to a show he was looking forward to in June. (June 6th Touch of England, Ho Ho Kus NJ)

After that it need to go back to Donovan in MA for a small punch list of items to be corrected before it makes its way to live in NH.

Not sure if any NJ ites will be around, but Ed's wife and I will be there in the show. Please stop and say hi so I can say thank you.

Mark EKberg

Roll bar for FHC

vampgovegan — Fri, 15 May 2026 12:15:41 GMT

Hello, does anybody have experience with a roll bar in a FHC?

Does anybody know this fiberglass kit?

vampgovegan — Thu, 14 May 2026 15:44:19 GMT

Replacing Left Front Antenna� 1970 Type II

mpawelek — Thu, 14 May 2026 03:50:20 GMT

Over the years I have probably replaced 6-8 antenna on older cars with no problems. This was done by entry at the door hinge area or by reaching up past the steering wheel and loosening the large nut at the base of the antenna and then pulling it up from the outside. I�m stumped on my XKE. At the door jam, removing carpet from the left side wall or the paneling near the steering wheel I run into solid sheet metal. Same under the bonnet.

How does one get to the internal base of the antenna? I am afraid of loosening the antenna from the outside wondering if it can then be tightened back up. Maybe this is a set up I have not encountered before. Anyone taken a front left antenna out and replaced from the outside without needing entry from underneath?

Carbon fiber kit

vampgovegan — Wed, 13 May 2026 11:57:38 GMT

Hello,
I purchased a lightweight kit in fiberglass.
The seller told me that he imported the kit that was installed on a car from the states...
Does anybody know anything about those kit?
Producers? specs? story?

Hot Water Valve to Interior Heater Core�..

mpawelek — Tue, 12 May 2026 16:53:15 GMT

1970 Series II. The dash lever, wire and lever on my hot water valve all appear to move properly. The outside shaft on the plunger appears to move in and out properly. The problem is that the air inside never gets more than warm even with the fan on the high setting. I do have the flap in the air mix box set properly so all is shunted to the cabin but still only get warm air. Considering the water flowing through the valve and into the radiator in the box should be right below 200F I am not getting a high enough heat inside the cabin. Any ideas? Pictures show plunger shaft on valve in both extremes.

Front Vent Window

mpawelek — Thu, 07 May 2026 20:04:25 GMT

Has anyone made personally or is there any type of aftermarket clip in vent wing for the front window? Anything that would allow a bit of outside air at the driver would be nice. My �67 Messerschmitt has a aftermarket pair and it makes a huge difference in warm/hot weather. Any ideas?

What is the torque spec on this head bolt/nut?

chemosabe — Fri, 01 May 2026 16:27:18 GMT

I recently changed all of the coolant hoses on my �72 E, s3. In the course of the process I found an oil leak (no big) at the front of both sides of engine at head. These six nuts were not tight� in fact tow we�re not even snugged down. So I went to my handy ROM (Repair Operation Manual) which identified these to be tightened LAST in the torque process. Here is my question� WHAT IS THE TORQUE SPEC FOR THESE SIX NUT? the ROM simply identifies the head bolts/nuts as either 3/8� or 7/16�. These nuts are 1/2� nuts so hence my question. I have included a pic from my ROM for clarification. Thanks for a bit of attention!

PLC Switch - a bit of history (Jaguar changed the name!)

kmclemore — Fri, 01 May 2026 15:00:09 GMT

Jaguars have a black-handled rotary switch, which controls the headlamps and sidelamps. This sort of switch was common in many cars dating from the 1930s all the way through to the 1970s. However, in the process of investigating my loose wire, I noticed on the wiring diagram that Jaguar had skillfully renamed it!

Here�s a bit of history�

In the early days of motoring, many British automobile generators did not have a regulator to regulate the amount of generated amperage output based upon the state of charge of the battery. Instead, they provided a switch that allowed you to apply a small amount of charging amperage for summertime use, and a larger amount of charging amperage for winter time use, when the cold battery needs more charging. In the center of the switch was often located a button or a key slot, which functioned to turn on the ignition (also known as the �primary� ignition circuit). And, the rotary switch also turned on the sidelamps and headlamps.

So, on these early switches, the first position to the farthest left was the summer driving position, where the generator would supply a small amount of amperage to the battery to keep it charged and to power the ignition circuits. The next position would be a winter driving position, which would provide more charging amperage to the cold battery, and similarly provide power to the ignition circuits.

The next position to the right of that would control the sidelamps. Obviously, when the sidelamps are on, you need a bit more charging amperage, so it carried over the same amount of charging as the winter time power setting in order to provide the necessary power for the lamps. One more switch position to the right controlled the headlamps, and it continued to apply the winter time amperage setting to run the headlamps.

Here are some variations on those early PLC switches:

So� Lucas, in their infinite wisdom, named the switch a �PLC Switch�, which stood for Primary, Lamps, and Charging. The switch controlled the primary ignition circuit, with the key in the center, it controlled the headlamps and sidelamps, and also controlled the charging amperage delivered by the generator.

Lucas, in their divine dedication to tradition (i.e. stubbornness), never changed the name of that switch, decades after most of the functions on it had disappeared. When voltage regulators became common in the 1930�s, the charging function of the switch disappeared, but it remained called a PLC switch. In the 1950�s the ignition switch was moved to a separate device, and that function, too, was eliminated from the PLC switch, yet Lucas doggedly retained the same name, despite the fact that it was now no longer anything more than a light switch.

I now see that on the wiring diagram, Jaguar had discretely re-named it a �Position Lighting Switch�, which was a savvy way to name the switch for its actual function, yet still keep it mostly in line with what Lucas was still calling them on their spares boxes and equipment lists, which was a �PLC Switch�!

And now you know an obscure bit of Joseph Lucas history, and why Jaguar Cars didn�t just call it a �light switch �!

[As a further bit of Lucas doggedness history, you might note that the screws on most of these switches are still Whitworth/British Standard. Lucas, again, in its divine dedication to tradition (stubbornness), never changed that either!]

What's this loose wire!?

kmclemore — Fri, 01 May 2026 04:28:05 GMT

So, I was investigating a problem with my cooling fans and went to check the fuse box on my new-to-me 66 2+2, and behind the centre instrument panel I came across an unattached ring terminal on a green wire. See photos below.
What is this ring terminal supposed to be attached to? I can't identify it on the wiring diagram.
Thanks for any help!
Cheers.

Note the ring terminal on the green wire. It's affixed midway on a green wire, between the instrument voltage stabilizer and where that wire goes into the fabric-covered harness.

The other end leads to the second terminal, labelled "B", of the instrument voltage stabilizer.

Here's a full picture of the whole back of the centre instrument panel, if that helps. The non-original yellow wire and blue connector supply power to the radio.

Here you can see the wire - the tip of my index finger is touching it, and my thumb is against the top of the mystery ring terminal on that same wire.

XKE For July 1st Shoot in Brooklyn

cooperclassiccars — Tue, 28 Apr 2026 22:14:23 GMT

Hello everyone, we are looking for a Series 1 XKE preferably in dark red / burgundy (lighter reds will work as well) for a professional shoot in Brooklyn on July 1st. Must have a black interior. You will be compensated for your time. If interested, please call me at Cooper Classics at 212-929-3909.

Thank you,

Richard

Instrument glass

craft — Mon, 27 Apr 2026 17:47:02 GMT

What is involved in cleaning inside of instrument glass on a Series II E-Type? Speedo and tach are fine, just the smaller gauges are fogged up.