Bad door lock cylinder
 

The keys (inside the fobs) that came with my f-type two years ago (used) would not work with the door lock (the single hidden one on the drivers side). This is the ONLY way to open the car if locked and the battery dies. I purchased a new key direct from dealer using VIN and that does not work either. (even had the techs try it when it was in for oil change, and they agreed I was not doing anything wrong).

Looks like lock cylinder will need to be replaced. Such an odd failure, anyone else seen this issue?

Are you pushing the key all the way in?
This has been raised before and it caught me out the first time I tried to test the key.
It feels like the key is all the way in when it hits a detente, but it's not, you have to push the key a little further than that, about 3 or 4 mm further, and it takes quite a hefty shove to do so. THEN it will turn and unlock the door!

Thanks for the tip, but yes I did. I even used a pair of needle nose pliers to really get a good grib and no go.

1. Have you tried using your key on the INSIDE lock (on the trail edge of the driver's door), to see if the key works on that? Page 13 of the US Owner's Manual.


https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...65604fd22.jpeg


2. Have you tried lubricating the stubborn lock cylinder? Use a graphite lube (I use Lock-Ease) yearly.

In your case, first try Kroil or PB Blaster, NOT WD40, to free things up. If it works, THEN use the graphite lube.

I (sometimes :o ) practice what I preach, and I couldn't remember the last time I lubricated the door-handle lock cylinder. So I went to the garage, and gave it a test.


YES it was VERY sluggish. :icon_cry: Was difficult to fully push in, the detente mentioned by @OzXFR is a very real thing! The 'handle' of the emergency key will end up being nearly straight out. Hold the handle out a bit and tape the area to avoid scratching the bodywork.
But, after two applications of Lock-Ease, it turned as easily as the locks on my house.



BTW, the door-edge "padlock" pictured in the last post is a cover, you rotate it 90 degrees and it can be popped off THEN you can test the key. And, it is on both driver & passenger doors.

Thanks for the Lock-Ease tip. We should add this to the list of preventative maintenance for older cars. I don’t think I’ve tried a key since I got my car, and it’s nearing 11 years old!

+
Thanks everyone, working on this today

Got a new can of PB blaster and already hit it a couple of times, still no luck. However, this door edge thing is new to me. I got the plug out and put the key in but it appears to be an electronic switch? And, my key feels loose in the door edge lock. It appears the only thing I can get the door edge lock to do is lock the door if it is unlocked. and it is electronic and my key is very loose in the slot. If door is locked, nothing happens, if door is unlocked, sticking in the key locks it electronically and I can feel something pushing on the key.

Just an update, acorrding to my manual, the key hole on the edge is an emergency lock switch and is doing what it is supposed to do. I guess I really don't understand what the situation is that one would need an emergency lock switch on the edge of the door. I have an appointment with the dealer in two weeks. In the meantime I'll hit it with the PB a couple more times to see if I can loosen it up. BTW, is the key cyclinder under the door handle mechanical or electrical?

The key lock under the door handle is purely mechanical.

It does seem bizarre - you can only use it to unlock the door if it's already open!

Update. I did finally take it to dealer. and they condemned the lock cylinder. Car Max warranty is covering it so parts are ordered and just waiting for install.

Thank you for your ideas and help. Im just glad I wasn't crazy...lol.

it’s there so you can lock the car when you don’t have any power eg stranded with a flat battery