Ok I got the Porterfield R4S rear pads changed today. My car has 3400 miles. I didnt like the amount of dust from the OEM.

AP1750 FRONT 380MM
AP1753 REAR 376MM

Directions:

1/ Put the car in brake maintenance mode. Ignition on, push the hand brake button down and hold for 2 secs, press accelerator to the floor and hold 2 secs turn ignition off/on and release accelerator and hand brake button. Dash should now read Brake Maintenance Mode. This retracts the EPS motors to allow you to push the piston back in. No tools needed.
2/ Remove wheel, clean wheel and caliper.
3/ Tie the caliper with wire to the upper suspension arm see pic.
4/ Undo 2X 15mm bolts and swing the caliper out, protect with a rag.
5/ Now push the piston back in with the old pads in place. It moves fairly easy.
6/ Remove the outside pad first with a flat head screw driver.
7/ Remove the inside pad and with a small flat head screw driver pry off the wear sensor from the bottom edge (passenger side only USA). Clean caliper,
8/ Compare your new pads with the old ones to make sure they are an exact match.
9/grease the back of the new pads with anti squeal grease only on the contact points.
10/ Replace the outside pad first. They push in easy or use pliers to compress the little spring clip on the pad.
11/ Install the inside pad. Put a bit of wood between the pads to hold in place makes it easier to compress that spring clip and push into place.
12/ Put caliper on disc, replace both 15mm bolts torque to 115Nm/85ft lbs
13/ Attach the wear sensor wire, it just pushed on the piston side pad.
14/ Take the car out of brake maintenance mode. Ignition on, pull the hand brake button up and hold for 2 secs, press accelerator to the floor and hold 2 secs turn ignition off/on and release accelerator and hand brake button. Dash should now clear Brake Maintenance Mode.

Done 40min a side. First will take the longest, so start on the drivers side i.e side with no sensor. Much easier that the fronts that I also did a write up for.

 

Good write up, and good to know that the EPB maintenance mode set and reset work for this. I didn't need to do that part as I was installing brand new callipers with the pistons already fully depressed.

 

Thanks for the write up man !! I was looking for any videos of the same.. this helps ! Any chance you recorded ?

 

Also, may i know what was the lifetime for the front and back brake pads.. how many miles ?

Thank you !

 

simonnallen,


Great write ups. I hope you don't mind but I took both your write ups and combined them into one document, see attached. I will be using them this weekend to change mine out. Thought others might find it handy.


Hope there is no major difference in the R vs. my V6 S.

 

Thanks to both of your for that. I threw it in my Dropbox, along with all the other F-type docs I've collected.
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/wgv3e86yc...glFoM3xOa?dl=0

 

Thanks for doing that u should get your doc added to the How to section that is pinned to the top of the forum.

I'm loving the less brake dust and the initial bit is better. I drive fairly spirited i.e tires usually last 15K miles on my cars.

 

Sorry not sure as I changed my OEM ones after 3400 miles cos of the dust

 

Just used these instructions to install the rear Porterfield R4S pads on my V6S. They certainly helped a lot - thanks Simon. Took about 1 hour and 15 minutes per side. Would have taken less but I was only using one floor jack and a safety stand. Also had some problems activating and dismissing the brake maintenance mode. The hardest part for me was getting a good angle on the 15 mm bolts to loosen and torque down when reassembling. I also fiddled with the wear sensor too long because I was too gentle when un-mounting it from the pad - it just clicks on and off the pad nothing more complicated than that.

Am going to do the fronts tomorrow.

BTW my car has 20k miles on it and the stock pads were still 6mm thick. 3mm above replacement thickness.

 

I did mine yesterday, using this method. Worked great (front and rear) and I didn't even break the wear sensors!
Thanks for the write-up.

 

Hi everyone, hopefully, this thread is still somewhat active. Big thank you to LedZepplin for the descriptive write up. I also hate the oem brake pad dust and I want to switch all 4 pads on my 2016 Jaguar F type R. Is this a simple project for a beginner DIYer to undertake? (I am happy to spend the time, but don't want to damage the car). Would you guys be able to go in a bit more depth about what extra tools are needed? I will be renting a space at a DIY auto garage, which will most likely have the sockets needed for the 15mm bolts (I won't be going with the hex bolt method). Is there anything else I should be aware of? I understand the importance of properly cleaning and lubricating the parts before reassembly so I was wondering what anti-squeal grease I should use. Thanks in advance for the help!

 

Yes, it's a fairly easy DIY job even for a beginner.
Remember the instructions above are for the rear brakes, the front brakes are a little different and it is much easier to remove the old pads and insert the new by removing the caliper slide pins instead of the 15 mm caliper bracket bolts.
Do do this you will need a 9 mm hex driver for the front brakes, and they are not commonly included in sets of hex drivers so you may need to get one from Fleabay. This is the only "extra" tool you will need, other than maybe a piece of strong wire with a hook at each end to hold the caliper up. The rear brake caliper pin is an ordinary bolt (13 mm I think) not a hex hole.
One tip for the front brakes - the inner and outer pads are different so take note of which is which when you take the old pads out. The rear brake pads are all the same.
Don't forget to push the front brake pistons all the way in to make room for the new thicker pads, and to watch the level in the brake fluid reservoir. If the old pads are very worn you should remove some fluid from the reservoir to prevent it overflowing when you push the pistons back in, do this separately for each corner and have a bottle of fresh fluid if needed for top-ups each time.
For anti-squeal grease you want dedicated ceramic based hi-temp brake grease, usually available from your local auto parts store.
Last but not least the hardest part of the whole job is getting the front brake anti-rattle clips back on, they are a real bear and it took me many many tries across four different pad changes (XFR & F-Type twice each) to get "the knack".
Put simply, place the clip loosely in place, push the two feet/ends into place (takes a bit of force), then while holding the two ends in place use a large flat-blade screwdriver right in the middle of the inner edge of the clip (ie the sprig itself) to lever the clip "up and in". You may find that you don't have enough hands and you need a helper with strong holds to hold the ends/feet in place while you lever the middle.

 

Great, thank you for the help. So I should be lubricating all of the contact points in the brake system (behind the pads and where the pads slide in the caliper)? Also, sorry if this is a dumb question, but what is the difference between removing the caliper bolts and the hex bolts? This will be my first brake job, but if I'm visualizing this correctly, i'm guessing the hex bolts hold in the clamp that holds in the brake pads whereas the caliper bolts hold in the entire caliper? I am probably wrong, but please let me know the difference. I am definitely afraid of working with the clips since I'm just a beginner. Would undoing the 15mm bolts allow me to avoid this step? Also, one last question, is thread lock required when replacing the bolts? From what I understand, the 15mm bolts are held in tightly due to thread lock from factory, but I'm not sure about other bolts.

 

Yes, lube behind the pads and on the outer edges of the backing plates wherever there is contact, just a thin smear of grease is all you need.
Some say you should also lube the caliper slide pins, others say you shouldn't (in theory this will attract/hold dirt and grit on them), but I usually clean them off and give them a very thin smear of brake grease and I have never had a problem.
Yes, the caliper bolts do hold the entire caliper. The caliper itself it attached to the caliper holder/bracket by the slide pins, and then the caliper bolts hold the whole thing to the hub.
I have found (twice now, once each on the XFR and F-Type) that with the front brakes you can easily enough remove the entire caliper and bracket intact by removing the 15 mm caliper bolts, BUT with the bracket still attached to the caliper via the slide pins it is very difficult to get the old pads out and put the new pads in, as both inner and outer pads have long 90 degree locating/retaining springs on them and the bracket gets in the way.
Both times I gave up, put the calipers back on and removed the caliper slide pins instead, 1000% easier that way!
The only downside to this method is the need to remove and replace the anti-rattle clips, but once you get "the knack" of doing this you will wonder what all the fuss is about.
Remember, this is all about the front brakes only so far, the rear brakes are different.
The rear brakes still have the same basic set-up of caliper bracket, caliper bolts and caliper slide pin, but that's about the only similarity.
It's a toss up with the rear brakes as to the easier method, remove the caliper bolts or remove the slide pins, but I still prefer to remove the slide pins.
No hex needed on the rear, the slide pins are simple bolts.
If you decide to remove the caliper bolts at either or both ends then yes you should put a tiny smear of thread lock on them, up near the head of the bolt, just look to see where the factory thread lock (blue) was previously placed.
Some sellers of new pads supply new caliper bolts already smeared in thread lock, but that is rare and if you are going with the Porterfield R4S pads you won't get any caliper bolts.

 

Great, huge thank you for the help! I wish you were in the Boston area hahaha, I'd feel much safer hiring someone to come out and help me. Anyways, two last questions: is there a torque rating on the slide pin bolts on the front and back? I have decided to go with that method because it'll give me space to clean and grease on the brake components. Furthermore, yes I will be changing to R4S so I don't want to mess up the caliper bolts. My second question was about the Brake maintenance mode, should i leave it fully engaged until i finish changing all 4 brake pads, front and back? If I'm understanding correctly, the process is to:
1. ignition on
2. push hand brake down and hold accelerator for 2 sec
3. release both
4. ignition off/on?
Or do I switch the ignition off/on at the same time while I release the accelerator and pull up the handbrake?

 

EPB Maintenance Mode activation is described towards the end of this document. You don't quite have it right.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/uajlxghl1a...brake.pdf?dl=0

 

The Workshop Manual (well at least my copy) is all over the shop with brake bolt torque settings, it is in no logical order and jumps from ceramic brakes to non-ceramic brakes and back again and never once mentions the super-performance brakes, but as best as I can find after an hour searching through the Manual the front brake caliper slide pin torque is 58Nm / 43Lb-Ft and the rear is 35Nm / 26 Lb-Ft. That said all I have ever done is do them up RFT with a 1/2" socket wrench (a 3/8" is too feeble) using the "two grunts and a fart" method and I have never had a problem with them.
Regards the emergency brake maintenance mode, just follow the PDF uploaded by DJS, and you only need maintenance mode for the rear brakes, it's better to have the emergency brake "on" when doing the front brakes.
All the maintenance mode does is disable the EPB and retract the rear brake pistons right in to assist with changing brake pads.
If you can't get maintenance mode to work then you should be able to retract the rear brake pistons using the old fashioned method of squeezing them in with a G-clamp or similar. They are not the same as XF or XJ for example rear brake pistons which you wind in using a tool.

 

Great, thank you so much for the help. I am feeling much more confident about undertaking this project. How would you recommend I go about it? Should I do the fronts first, then engage the maintenance mode and do the rears? Is there a difference or is it easier to start from one end than the other? Thanks again for the help.

 

It doesn't really matter which end you do first but as the rears are a little easier than the fronts I would do them first.

 

Hi all,

I'm trying to install my rear Porterfield pads and the rear caliper will not budge inwards. Does anyone know of something that I may be doing incorrectly? I've used the technique above to release by electronic parking brake which allowed me to remove the caliper, but now I cannot get the new thicker pads in place.