Car jerks when put in drive every morning
#41
Almost all cars start in 2nd in normal mode today for gas stats. I have same ZF in our Maserati and it is programmed completely different. I prefer Jags. BMW uses this trans and it is different again as is Land Rover. I see nothing wrong with the trans but it is better in sport or full dynamic. In the Maser it is completely different in sport, much more fun! But if you start in first all the time the gas mileage does change significantly.
#42
I too experience the "jerk" when putting the car into D after a cold start. The car developed this over time, as it did not do it new.
On my car, it is not related to the higher start-up RPM. My normal starting procedure is to not only wait for the RPM to drop to idle, but also for the temp gauge to move off the (digital) peg, usually 60-90 seconds depending on ambient temp.
I have to put the car in reverse first, but only get the "jerking" when put into drive. All other shifts after this are smooth, and I've not had any other issues with the transmission or shift quality.
On my car, it is not related to the higher start-up RPM. My normal starting procedure is to not only wait for the RPM to drop to idle, but also for the temp gauge to move off the (digital) peg, usually 60-90 seconds depending on ambient temp.
I have to put the car in reverse first, but only get the "jerking" when put into drive. All other shifts after this are smooth, and I've not had any other issues with the transmission or shift quality.
#43
I feel it first thing in the morning when the engine is cold and in a higher rev mode, but my description of the symptom that bothers a few folks is a firm shift into D at higher revs. If you wait several minutes until the engine is near normal temp and drops down to the normal warm idle rev, it doesn't happen, but that's completely unnecessary. I can reproduce the same thing on any automatic transmission by increasing the revs slightly in neutral before shifting.
#44
There are 3 idle stages: 1) high-rev start-up; 2) which idles down to a lower cold idle after approximately 10 seconds, and 3) an even lower warm idle when car is at normal operating temp.
My car does exactly the same thing as seen in the video, and has since new. I remember this distinctly because after having the car for a day or two, I put it into gear during the initial high-rev start-up, and it died. That's the only reason I would remember it was doing the same thing brand new, because I paid very close attention immediately after that, fearing something might be wrong. I haven't repeated that error since.
Absent an experience like that to closely focus my attention on that particular characteristic, I wouldn't have accurately remembered what it did 18 months ago new, because there are so many novel things to take in on a totally new vehicle. Any new experience is akin to sensory overload. It's also a normal characteristic of human perception to notice more and more details and pick up more subtle nuances as a situation becomes more and more routine. Thus, it would be normal to think something wasn't happening when new that is happening now because attention was diverted elsewhere and all over the place in the beginning.
I'm not trying to be pedantic, but I earned my PhD in experimental psychology (e.g. human perception). What I'm trying to describe is a normal, well-documented, human phenomenon.
BTW, The squeak is the cold brake pads against the cold disks when the car goes into gear. Mine makes that same exact sound from the video when starting out in the morning. Every day, it repeats the same start-up behavior about 10 hours later, when I leave the office.
My car does exactly the same thing as seen in the video, and has since new. I remember this distinctly because after having the car for a day or two, I put it into gear during the initial high-rev start-up, and it died. That's the only reason I would remember it was doing the same thing brand new, because I paid very close attention immediately after that, fearing something might be wrong. I haven't repeated that error since.
Absent an experience like that to closely focus my attention on that particular characteristic, I wouldn't have accurately remembered what it did 18 months ago new, because there are so many novel things to take in on a totally new vehicle. Any new experience is akin to sensory overload. It's also a normal characteristic of human perception to notice more and more details and pick up more subtle nuances as a situation becomes more and more routine. Thus, it would be normal to think something wasn't happening when new that is happening now because attention was diverted elsewhere and all over the place in the beginning.
I'm not trying to be pedantic, but I earned my PhD in experimental psychology (e.g. human perception). What I'm trying to describe is a normal, well-documented, human phenomenon.
BTW, The squeak is the cold brake pads against the cold disks when the car goes into gear. Mine makes that same exact sound from the video when starting out in the morning. Every day, it repeats the same start-up behavior about 10 hours later, when I leave the office.
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Uk2usa (12-22-2015)
#45
here's a video from this morning.
f type startup - YouTube
after the revs die down (30 seconds in) I select D - 1.5 second delay and the car lurches forward with a squeak. Then I select neutral and D again and no jerk - just a feeling of it pulling.
FWIW ambient temp in the garage was over 60F (it's spring here) so I don't think freezing temperatures are a factor.
f type startup - YouTube
after the revs die down (30 seconds in) I select D - 1.5 second delay and the car lurches forward with a squeak. Then I select neutral and D again and no jerk - just a feeling of it pulling.
FWIW ambient temp in the garage was over 60F (it's spring here) so I don't think freezing temperatures are a factor.
Was this on a hill or anything? Also, when you park, are you applying the parking brake THEN selecting park.
My car doesn't exhibit any of these noises, movements or clunks. Mine is an R (not sure if that makes any difference).
Temperature does not matter. Smooth as butter selecting any gear from start up and driving. I always come to a stop, apply the parking brake, then select park on the transmission. This way the cars weight is not resting on the transmission.
#46
Mine is also a V6 for what it's worth.
#47
Actually, the parking brake unloads the transmission completely if you apply that before putting it in Park. The car won't let you shut down in neutral as it will automatically go into Park.
There's almost no such thing as a completely level floor. You can put a bubble level with an electronic readout down on almost any "level" floor and find it off by a few tenths of a degree. Once in Park, it will often drift a bit loading the transmission ever so lightly unless the parking brake is engaged.
At any rate, I also park on a level floor and use the parking brake in the above manner everywhere I park, and my car still exhibits the same symptoms in the video every time I start it cold. I consider it normal.
There's almost no such thing as a completely level floor. You can put a bubble level with an electronic readout down on almost any "level" floor and find it off by a few tenths of a degree. Once in Park, it will often drift a bit loading the transmission ever so lightly unless the parking brake is engaged.
At any rate, I also park on a level floor and use the parking brake in the above manner everywhere I park, and my car still exhibits the same symptoms in the video every time I start it cold. I consider it normal.
#48
My garage is dead flat and behaviour is the same whether park brake is applied or not.
The main concern is the 1.5 second delay then the slam into 1st.
If it was solely rev-related - why is the second N->D always smooth?
And leaving the car idling for 5 minutes so the revs really have finished dying down to "normal" idle speed and the the temp gauge is sitting in the middle (at 65 F ambient temp) it still jolts the first time you hit 'D'
Also my MY15 V6-S is always in 1st after selecting 'D' (but I can manually select 2nd with the paddles). If you coast to a stop in manual it will stop in 2nd and you have to manually change down if you want 1st.
The main concern is the 1.5 second delay then the slam into 1st.
If it was solely rev-related - why is the second N->D always smooth?
And leaving the car idling for 5 minutes so the revs really have finished dying down to "normal" idle speed and the the temp gauge is sitting in the middle (at 65 F ambient temp) it still jolts the first time you hit 'D'
Also my MY15 V6-S is always in 1st after selecting 'D' (but I can manually select 2nd with the paddles). If you coast to a stop in manual it will stop in 2nd and you have to manually change down if you want 1st.
#49
My garage is dead flat and behaviour is the same whether park brake is applied or not.
The main concern is the 1.5 second delay then the slam into 1st.
If it was solely rev-related - why is the second N->D always smooth?
And leaving the car idling for 5 minutes so the revs really have finished dying down to "normal" idle speed and the the temp gauge is sitting in the middle (at 65 F ambient temp) it still jolts the first time you hit 'D'
Also my MY15 V6-S is always in 1st after selecting 'D' (but I can manually select 2nd with the paddles). If you coast to a stop in manual it will stop in 2nd and you have to manually change down if you want 1st.
The main concern is the 1.5 second delay then the slam into 1st.
If it was solely rev-related - why is the second N->D always smooth?
And leaving the car idling for 5 minutes so the revs really have finished dying down to "normal" idle speed and the the temp gauge is sitting in the middle (at 65 F ambient temp) it still jolts the first time you hit 'D'
Also my MY15 V6-S is always in 1st after selecting 'D' (but I can manually select 2nd with the paddles). If you coast to a stop in manual it will stop in 2nd and you have to manually change down if you want 1st.
#51
You may want to take yourCar into the Dealer, the Transmission might Ned to be " quick-learned". This is done with a scan tool. It basically makes the trans apply all the clutches and the controller sees how long it takes for each clutch to apply. Then the controller can adjust the timing of the clutch applications for smoother shifting.
Or maybe just a software update/re-flash might be needed? Or check the Trans fluid level?
By the way, the ZF-8 is an awesome transmission, I have one in my SUV. It's capable of handling over 700 ft/lb of torque. Even Rolls Royce use them.
Or maybe just a software update/re-flash might be needed? Or check the Trans fluid level?
By the way, the ZF-8 is an awesome transmission, I have one in my SUV. It's capable of handling over 700 ft/lb of torque. Even Rolls Royce use them.
#54
#55
Maybe next time I won't wait and will put it straight it into Park, just to see if it reoccurs (who knows, maybe something else was causing it and now it's fixed itself, so worth checking out).
#56
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#59
#60
I just deal with it these days. It's been a long time sense I really messed with paying attention to all of that so I don't recall. What I do know is that nothing I did helped. It's one of those problems that just big enough to notice, but not big enough to fuss over for long.