Diagnosis Jag - Injector failure?
 

Currently known:
*Rough idle/dropped cylinder('s) after warm
*will Rev somewhat ok, but still a dropped Cyl.
*no oil in coolant/or coolant in oil filter, all other signs normal.
*Starts fine, rough cold idle like usual (maybe a tad worse then normal)... Cleans up in a minute or two. Runs mint untill it starts to drop cylinder as it warms.
*exhaust smells like fuel
*Cylinders 1,2,3,4 effect mostly according to obdii data/codes.

I have a vid of the live data that will post once I return to my pc.


So I am leaning towards an injector sticking/stuck open. (already order 4 injectors and have the tool)
But before I tear this apart what's everyone think?
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...54d9457b75.png
After a hard reset (battery Unhooked) second start.

I would doubt that all 3 injectors would go bad at the same time. Are they all in the same bank?

@Unhingd I guess when they stick open, it allows the pressures on the rail to drop effecting the others. Did we ever get to the bottom of the cylinder numbering? according to the service manual if I read that correctly 1, 2, 3, 4 would be the front of the engine as opposed to the pass side (US LHD) like I was thinking at first. So thats comfusing, why the front?

This has happened to several of us on the X150 forum with our XKRs. In every single case, it was fuel injector related, and if one goes bad, it affects the whole bank. It has happened to mine twice during my ownership. It should clear up very quickly with injector replacement.

Is there any way of determining the specific injector that’s sticking?
Josh,
Before you try to extract those injectors, drop a can of BG 44K in the tank. That solved a sticking injector 13 years ago on my pickup and it’s still working just fine.

Good call! I already cleaned the MAF sensors.

Any danger in letting it run a bit? Other then some fuel possibly gettin into the oil? I have no cats so no worries there.

not that this will help but there is a new formula out for BG44K:

Pulling the injectors is quite a challenge (without breaking them). If you decide to pull it, there is a spray product from Liqui Moly that you should start spraying around the hole the day before and pull the plug and spray it within the combustion chamber to remove the carbon deposit around the stem (heat the straw and curve it 180 degrees). If you brake it (common) have a drill bit and tap the hole to pull the steel part out. Get yourself the correct injector puller and always use it perfectly inline with the injector. The carbon buildup on the steel tip makes it quite challenging.

FYI, an injector stuck open will NOT affect the pressure on the high pressure rail...

Dumping excessive fuel in a cylinder will wash off the oil layer on the cylinder and enable scoring of the cylinder. Be careful

P228f is a high pressure fuel pump code.

I tend to agree with the pump being at fault. A live monitor of the high pressure rail can help narrow the cause. But in case he wants to pull injectors... I think you will agree with the above suggestions.

yes, after some more investigation with the live data im somewhat torn....iv already replaced the HP pumps once (15k ago +-).

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WJ6X...ature=youtu.be

That doesn't tell much. Hold the engine at 3000rpm and display Pressure Rail actual and Pressure rail demand (If Torque has it)

shucks, i uploaded the wrong vid above, all i can do with Torque is actual rail pressure, but i did rev to 3k and hold, Fuel rail PSI is low if i'm not mistaken. i can hear my HP fuel pumps but nothing more then usual unless i have just grown accustom to hearing them.

OK, it looks like either the pump or the pressure regulator. The best way to diagnose it however is to also show the "Expected fuel pressure". I am not sure if Torque has this. Going to take a quick video now

You will want to see that the DESIRED pressure and ACTUAL pressure keep pace

i dont see the sensor option for "commanded" in torgue pro, but let me see if my other scanner can tonight. thanks again!

if it is the pump(s) what would cause them to fail 2x within 40k? religious about oil changes, BS test have come back fine...any ideas?

Get 2X BOSCH 66807, below $200.00 each and the usual cause is fuel /additives etc. I know that you have ventured into racing fuel etc, if you also tried additives heavy on Acetone, that will do it.

Any update on this?

not really, have 2 pumps on the way (and 4 injectors/tool). Spent the evening setting up SDD on a new burner laptop (my old SDD was on a painfull almost unusable slow laptop) in hopes of verifying this with the datalogger and running any "test" procedures it recommends. i also believe i have had an injector issue on the pass side of the vehicle for some time, as my pass side factory cat (when it was still on the f-type) was throwing "cat below efficiency" codes that JLR shrugged off after some major work, was told it was a bad coil and it was replaced (except the new coil was on the drivers side after some investigation)....so could it be that an intermittent sticking open injector was pushing the pumps hard all the time to keep up(only a theory?) eventually leading to failure of the pump? on the plus side i just got my latest blackstone report and its perfect like all the others. i just don't understand how i am at my 3rd set of HPFP in less then 40k. i have run race fuel ( but even that only US 103) and less then a handful of times...always 93.