Electronics problem
Just bought a 2016 F Type with 18k miles from CarMax. On my drive home and last nice once again whenever the headlights are on at night, after a while the electronics start flickering. This morning went to turn it on and it died as soon as I hit the start button and then ten minutes later turned on like nothing ever happened. Not getting any kind of error messages on my dash. Battery was replaced right before I picked it up because the car was dead when I arrived. Any idea of what it could be? From what I've read it could possibly wiring harness, or the new battery wasn't completely charged when it was installed, maybe a loose cable? Has anybody dealt with something like this? I still have time to return it but the car is in pristine condition and is a beauty, hoping this is a minor issue.
I'd start by making sure the battery is fully charged, and diagnose from that known point. Otherwise, look for dodgy connections to the battery, or corroded earth points, several threads on here about those, I think.
Just bought a 2016 F Type with 18k miles from CarMax. On my drive home and last nice once again whenever the headlights are on at night, after a while the electronics start flickering. This morning went to turn it on and it died as soon as I hit the start button and then ten minutes later turned on like nothing ever happened. Not getting any kind of error messages on my dash. Battery was replaced right before I picked it up because the car was dead when I arrived. Any idea of what it could be? From what I've read it could possibly wiring harness, or the new battery wasn't completely charged when it was installed, maybe a loose cable? Has anybody dealt with something like this? I still have time to return it but the car is in pristine condition and is a beauty, hoping this is a minor issue.
My guess is Likely to be a loose battery or ground connection . An incompletely or under charged battery isn”t going to be completely dead one time and then miraculously no problems starting the next. It would still be flat and struggle every time thereafter. Also once the car is running there should be no cut out even with a flat battery.
I agree with the suggestions to FULLY vet the battery before moving on to other diagnostics. Just because a 'new' battery was put in, doesn't mean that the battery was fully charged. Often the batteries sit on the shelf for a while. When I picked up the 2017 with 26,000 miles, in the fall of 2020, I was getting "drive more" messages on the instrument cluster. I thought the drive home (over 100 miles and 3 hours) would take care of it, but not the case. It was still under warranty, so my local dealer replaced the battery. When I got it home, I put it on the Ctek
https://smartercharger.com/products/ctek-mxs-5-0
and it took quite a while for the Ctek to go through its protocol and fully charge the battery. AGM batteries (Absorbent Glass Mat) don't have as long a life as standard lead-acid. Yes, they are pricey, but easy to check out the charge, as well as double-check all the connections.
https://smartercharger.com/products/ctek-mxs-5-0
and it took quite a while for the Ctek to go through its protocol and fully charge the battery. AGM batteries (Absorbent Glass Mat) don't have as long a life as standard lead-acid. Yes, they are pricey, but easy to check out the charge, as well as double-check all the connections.
Since the battery was just replaced check the connections there first. I had a battery replaced and one of the terminals wasn't properly secured. The pinch bolt was tight but there needs to be a gap to allow the terminal to properly clamp the post. The symptom I had was that sometimes I'd get a flicker on the infotainment screen when hitting a bump. A visual inspection of the battery area was OK but when I grabbed the cables and wiggled them one was clearly loose.
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Biff Baxter
XK / XKR ( X150 )
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Feb 19, 2022 11:39 AM
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