@NBCat Thank you once again!

But what do you think about lack of any sign of bad injectors on the set of spark plugs that were just replaced? No dark spots, no burn marks, all equal in color. Wouldn’t single dark plugs be the ultimate indication of injector issues?

 

If one or more of the injectors on Bank1 are sticking open momentarily, but enough to starve Bank2 cylinders 5 and 7 of fuel, there may not be any indication on the spark plugs from the Bank1 cylinders until the injectors fail and cause raw fuel to get sent into the the catalyst. Once one or more of the injectors permanently fail, raw fuel enters the catalyst causing damage with the resulting flashing MIL and smoke from the exhaust.

 

Quick update:

I never got around to doing the Bank 1 injector set replacement last year as the weather ended the F-Type driving season early.

This year the engine still wobbles in the same fashion, i.e at one stoplight it is smooth, at another stoplight it is wobblier, at another one randomly it shakes the car very noticeably.

So I thought I would follow the advice from @NBCat and with closest oil change next week I would replace the 4 Bank 1 injectors.

Had it plugged into the scanner yesterday and surprise surprise - for a long time at idle in the driveway there were NO Misfires on any of the cylinders. Then during a 25 minute druve around town with the scanner plugged in, misfire (1) was noted at Cylinder 7 (so just as last year) BUT then, another misfire (1) showed up at Cylinder… 2! Not a single misfire read at Cylinder 5 as before.

With these new results I believe that the theory that some injectors on bank 1 sticking open and causing bank 2 cylinders 5 and 7 to be starved of fuel and throwing misfires is now not accurate? Now with Cylinders 2 and 7 showing misfires (but small enough to not cause any misfire fault or CEL) it looks like there is a diffrent issue?

Additionaly here are the faults that were read by the scanner, from last few months of driving it, any tip from these?

P0173-00 Fuel Trim Bank 2 (Pending)
P013E-00 Oxygen sensor delayed response rich to lean bank 1 sensor 2 (Historic)
P0430-00 Cat system efficiency below threshold bank 2 (Historic)

 

Hello @Sgratmtv,
Wanted to see if you have any updates. I think I have a similar slight misfire at idle that does not register a fault code.
i bought a 2015 FTR 6 weeks ago and couldn't tell if this idle was normal or not. Then 1 week and half ago I got a MIL light for Code P0430.
Cleared the code and it returned a week later. I threw in a bottle of cataclean this time to buy me some until to figure out the root cause.
Looks like I might be in your boat as well.

 

Hey,

At the time I created the thread here I had zero experience with another V8 F-Type.

Now however I have two buddies with V8 cars - one is a 2014 V8S and the other is a 2017 SVR and surprise, surprise - they BOTH do this too. Very similar shaky idle, not very obvious but it is there when you focus.

Later I also searched a facebook f-type owners group and found a thread in which there are like 30 responses with most people saying their V8s do the exact same thing.

All in all I guess this is how these are. Surprising, sure, but what can one do.

I guess you can relax now and enjoy it, just like I do, even when the jag is a bit shaky at the red light.

„It’s not a flaw, it’s a feature!”

 

Glad to hear. Thanks brother!
You'll catch me on the FB groups well.

 

Good evening, sorry about the lengthy post I just really need some help or information.
I have a 2015 F-TYPE R with 60K miles on it (Not under warranty). Had for about 2 years no major issues, previous owner I bought it from had it tunned with the lower pully from J.A.G.S tunning group. Over the past few months, I've had a lot more issues. Recently had a check engine light that flagged a fuel injector problem, I replaced all 4 injectors on bank 2 and all 8 spark plugs. Almost a month later replaced the driver side catalyst. Since then, the car has had a rough idle during the open loop/warm up. After it warms up rpms drop, and it is as smooth as a whistle and drives with no issues. At the time it was throwing no codes so mechanic believes that it is a software issue as a result of the tune. Took the car home and almost another month later I get a P0302 code for cylinder 2 misfire. I've only put ~70 miles on it since it has left the shop with one hard night of driving (next morning threw the code). Just wanted to pick you guys brains on what do you think it could be, Tune? O2 sensors? Mechanical Issue?

- Thanks in Advance !!

 

Misfire only when cold IME is usually a spark plug...gap too wide or narrow, if damaged during replacement on cylinder 2?

++++++++++++


Often, ECUs will not trigger a CEL during conditions of warmup. You didn't get the code until it caused a sufficient # of misfires after warmup.

If you have a shop pull the plug, swap positions with another cylinder to assure that the issue doesn't 'move' with the plug. Also, it is important to pull them after starting on a cold engine...that way, inspection will indicate any issues BEFORE the engine warms and the ECU begins to compensate.

Be sure to review this Topic. Especially #22.


Just my WAG...

 

Just bought a 19' FPace SVR with 47k miles mine does this too at idle. Small vibration with occasional hiccups. Thought it was an issue but now see its normal. Thanks!

 

my wife’s XJ would randomly do the rough idle at stop. I put some injector cleaner in it didn’t do anything so I switched gas. Ever since I switched to Arco believe it or not, it no longer does it. Union 76 gas used to make my other car ping, so I don’t believe expensive gas is better quality. This is an easy and cheap experiment.

 

I had noticed this briefly with my 2024 R when first brand new, for what seemed to be a brief time. At the time I had asked about it on here in another thread and several people reported that it can be fairly normal with these engines, that it’s nothing to be alarmed about, etc…

For whatever the reason I don’t seem to experience the issue now.

 

Had my first noticeable 'hiccup' on leaving a stop today after 20,000kms of ownership. Transmission in S, put my foot on the gas to takeoff and it kinda sputtered for 1 second then caught and went.

Had lots of engine/supercharger maintenance done about 10,000kms ago.

 

That’s not what this thread is about. That sounds like something very different.

 

Yup just got a 2015 F type R does the exact same thing. Seems to be normal it’s definitely concerning but seems like it’s just how it is

 

This is an older thread, but these DI engines need the intake valves cleaned. Here are mine at 34,000 miles before and after I cleaned them. Noticeable difference in how smooth the idle is now. All 16 valves were like this. I added an oil catch can to help.

 

Nice clean valves! Never seen them that clean before.
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how often do you look at them?

 

No idea.

I’m not a JLR tech/mechanic, just a shade tree mechanic who’s worked on his own cars for over 30 years. I had an 07 Mini Cooper S with a bigger turbo, meth injection, and questionable tune (only owned it for six months - horrible cars) that probably needed the valves cleaned every other oil change. Then I had a tuned VW Golf R that could probably go 30-40K without a problem.

I had the supercharger off changing out the Y pipe and other coolant pipes and took a look at the valves. Saw what they looked like and went down the two day rabbit hole of chemically cleaning them. It’s a PITA, but smoothed out the idle dramatically.

 

I look at many valves all the time. Why? Mainly because there is no consistency about carbon build up. I try to figure out what causes some engines to carbon up massively while other DI engines suffer very little. One of the real odd things is LR's seem to be much worse about carbon build up compared to the Jaguar side. This makes no sense as the drive trains are pretty much identical.

The Audi's are just atrocious about it and I have read and seen pictures where it's needed every 30K miles! I mean look at this!
This is an Audi V-8. RS4 V8 B7.





Adding a catch can seems to be the obvious solution and I am considering it as others (Mainly F-Type guys) do run them. Still not convinced that will solve it as people with catch cans have had to clean the valves too. Another interesting thing is Ford finally gave up and added a set of port injectors on several engines (Coyote is one I am aware of). This did 2 things. Allowed more fuel into the engine and the intake track is once again cleaned by the intake charge.

My 65K mile modified XJR runs great but has what I call a bit of a lumpy idle-Especially when cold. As I posted I do run some DI cleaner thru a vacuum port into the intake now and again. Trying to knock off some of the carbon build up. I have not run my camera down into the intake and heads and that is what I should do.

Thanks for the pictures ER9240! That was chemical cleaning. I would have said walnut blasting because they are so clean. You must have really worked them over to get them that clean. And honestly your build up was very mild compared to what I have seen on other Jaguars.
What did you use to clean them?
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I use this stuff. It still takes a lot of work, but the CRC will break down the deposits pretty decently. I then use a dental pick (very carefully) and the Glock gun cleaning brush that no one ever uses to clean a gun. Haha.

This was in the catch can after 300 miles, spirited driving, and three trips down the drag strip:



Probably about a teaspoon worth of oil that didn’t go down the intake