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The clay bar alone will not repair orange peel, it simply removes contaminants from the surface of the clear coat.
To repair orange peel, the clear coat needs to be either polished or wet-sanded (if it is severe enough). The effect described as orange peel is a rough surface on the clear coat (named as such due to the clear coat's surface resembling the texture of an orange peel), and it must be polished or sanded back to a smooth surface to remove that effect.
Typically the detailing process would be clay bar first to remove contaminants, polish to remove fine scratches and smooth the clear coat, then apply sealant/wax to provide protection to the newly smoothed clear coat surface.
I just want to help clarify that a clay bar alone will not remove the orange peel effect, but is typically the first step in any detailing process in which subsequent steps are used to remove the orange peel effect (i.e. polishing/sanding).
The clay bar alone will not repair orange peel, it simply removes contaminants from the surface of the clear coat.
To repair orange peel, the clear coat needs to be either polished or wet-sanded (if it is severe enough). The effect described as orange peel is a rough surface on the clear coat, and it must be polished or sanded back to a smooth surface to remove that effect.
Typically the detailing process would be clay bar first to remove contaminants, polish to remove fine scratches and smooth the clear coat, then apply sealant/wax to provide protection to the newly smoothed clear coat surface.
I just want to help clarify that a clay bar alone will not remove the orange peel effect, but is typically the first step in any detailing process in which subsequent steps are used to remove the orange peel effect (i.e. polishing/sanding).
Exactly right!
Almost all factory finishes have some degree of orange peel if you look closely enough. It's usually more visible on darker colors.
It's better or worse than average on any given car due to various environmental and plant variables. Extremely high-end, as well as, show cars are usually given the process described by Biernut above (usually wet-sanding) after painting, but you have to get north of $200K for a manufacturer to perform that process as a routine part of the production process.
Correct. In my case the claybar was done by the detailer and cQuartzed.
There was a lot more work done between the clay bar and the cQuartz if your finish is mirror smooth.
As Biernut explained above, the clay bar will do nothing to remove orange peel. It just removes surface contaminants to allow for swirl-free polishing, which can remove a lot of the orange peel. It takes more aggressive wet-sanding, then major polishing to really get things mirror smooth if the orange peel is more high-profile.
There was a lot more work done between the clay bar and the cQuartz if your finish is mirror smooth.
As Biernut explained above, the clay bar will do nothing to remove orange peel. It just removes surface contaminants to allow for swirl-free polishing, which can remove a lot of the orange peel. It takes more aggressive wet-sanding, then major polishing to really get things mirror smooth if the orange peel is more high-profile.
It may be a difference in our definition of orange peel. If the reflection in the paint is uneven and not clear, to me that's orange peel. I'm not talking spray can orange peel that you can feel to the touch. Clay bar and a good paint sealant will handle what I'm talking about. Additional clearcoat and polishing machines not needed.
It may be a difference in our definition of orange peel. If the reflection in the paint is uneven and not clear, to me that's orange peel.
Agreed. It sounds like both Foosh and I agree with you on that definition.
Sealant, even wax for awhile, will fill in the dimples in the clear coat (orange peel) that create the uneven reflections. Sealants and waxes are designed to cure into a smooth surface that enhances reflections. This will fade over time as the product wears off, however.
A good polish will keep the reflections smooth as the protective layer (sealant/wax) wears away, as it actually removes the dimples (orange peel) in the clear coat causing the uneven reflections.
Edit - I should add there's an argument to be made for clay bar/sealing approach to a brand new car, especially if sealant is able to effectively mask the orange peel. This approach allows you to save that layer of clear coat removal done during polishing for when you need to polish due to scratches. This approach would not be correcting the orange peel however, just masking it.
This approach allows you to save that layer of clear coat removal done during polishing for when you need to polish due to scratches. This approach would not be correcting the orange peel however, just masking it.
This is why the sealant has to be periodically reapplied. I think we are in violent agreement.
I just picked up my new 2016 F-Type Base Coupe 8-speed this week, delivered about a month earlier than first estimated. So far just drove it home 150 miles. Still have to learn how to drive it, and looking forward to the experience. Seats are Ivory with Jet contrast stitch.
The clay bar alone will not repair orange peel, it simply removes contaminants from the surface of the clear coat.
To repair orange peel, the clear coat needs to be either polished or wet-sanded (if it is severe enough). The effect described as orange peel is a rough surface on the clear coat (named as such due to the clear coat's surface resembling the texture of an orange peel), and it must be polished or sanded back to a smooth surface to remove that effect.
Typically the detailing process would be clay bar first to remove contaminants, polish to remove fine scratches and smooth the clear coat, then apply sealant/wax to provide protection to the newly smoothed clear coat surface.
I just want to help clarify that a clay bar alone will not remove the orange peel effect, but is typically the first step in any detailing process in which subsequent steps are used to remove the orange peel effect (i.e. polishing/sanding).
Exactly. My paint has some waviness typical of robot applied paint but all new cars these days are the same. I may buff it one day but it is not bad enough to cause me any major concern.
Exactly. My paint has some waviness typical of robot applied paint but all new cars these days are the same. I may buff it one day but it is not bad enough to cause me any major concern.
Agreed, and I suspect all manufacturers are using essentially the same robotic painting systems. There is some variability given environmental conditions and differences in equipment performance on any given day.
Of course, exotics get wet-sanded, then heavily polished, which is the only way to have no orange peel.
2016 Non-"S" 6cyl manual transmission. BRG Camel interior "tan" or camel top. Picked up Wed AM, driven to Tahoe and back already. 500 miles in, I'm really in love. I drove a Wrangler for 20 years, so this is about 5" wider on either side, which spooks me on the road so far. The clutch is fantastic. I got the vision package, and I have to ask... with those mirrors is there *really* no blind spot? Wild.
I still have absolutely no idea what to do with the car other than put my foot on the clutch and move the car. The tech can wait! =)
I actually am a decent photographer, but didn't have time to do anything other than quick and dirty. I will try to get art-house shortly.
Got mine 10 days before your post. Same except for chrome 19 in wheels and Brogue leather interior. Are you still hitting the climate control and emergency flasher when you shift into third?
Same here. Have never touched the switch bank during vigorous shifting. I grab the knob from the side rather than the top, so that may be the difference.
Got mine 10 days before your post. Same except for chrome 19 in wheels and Brogue leather interior. Are you still hitting the climate control and emergency flasher when you shift into third?
Different but similar "problem" with my Auto...
If I use the Gear Shift (instead of the paddle) I find that my hand will occasionally brush the button just hard enough to turn the Active Exhaust off.
Same here. Have never touched the switch bank during vigorous shifting. I grab the knob from the side rather than the top, so that may be the difference.
I seem to hold on to the volume knob, but my hands have never hit anything accidentally. I will say that
a) it is a LOOoooong throw, or at least it seems to me. I am choking down on the shifter and have my hand under the ball handle.
b) My iced coffee straw and top of the cup is DEFINITELY in the way of shifting. I think the cup holders were meant for one scotch glass and one gin and tonic lowball.
Same here. Have never touched the switch bank during vigorous shifting. I grab the knob from the side rather than the top, so that may be the difference.
From the category of double entendre, this may be my favorite post ever.
