oil
 

I know this is an old topic but has anyone found a oil to take place of dealer product? Easier to get?

Found this on Amazon just last night. Will have it in a few days. I Can let you know by then!

Motul Jaguar Land Rover Specific 0W20

I use this https://www.fcpeuro.com

Off the top of my head, I know that Motul & LiquiMoly make oil that meets the STJLR.51.5122 spec. There are also a number of suppliers that sell a full kit with Castrol or the former.

Personally, I use LiquiMoly from FCPEuro. Really simple & they even replace the oil when you send it back to them.

Not an oil discussion again ... Guys NO MOTOR is sensitive to a point where you need a specific Castrol Professional oil! The motor will not have higher than normal wear! This has become so ridiculous.
Any Top Tier Brand, LiquidMoly, Amsoil, Mobil 1, Castrol etc in 5w20 will protect your motor VERY WELL! Motor oils have never been better. If you track your car in hot weather like 80-90 degrees you can put 0W30-5W30 but is not necessary as long as you arrive with fresh oil and change it regularly if you are beating on the car. That’s it! There’s no point in going crazy looking for “the best” oil.
Buy whatever is available locally FULL SYN and Change it out regularly. You want zinc and phosphorous (anti-wear) additives to be around 900-1000. You can find this info on the data sheets.

Agree. However, there is a die in the JLR oil spec, and if still under warranty, want to use the JLR approved (Liqui Molly has one), just to avoid any potential issues. After warranty...Agree 100%. Not sure why Mobil 1 Synthetic is good enough for my flat 6 twin turbo~ 670 HP 997 Turbo, but would not hold up in a supercharged V8? :) Also, if anyone is looking for a heavy Zinc package...The Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel Truck Synthetic oil has a ton! Just FYI.

DC

100% agreed. If you're going out of your way to find the exact spec. oil Jaguar calls out, you're wasting time and money for no benefit. Castrol full synthetic from the local auto parts store or an equivalent brand will do just fine.

Jesus... look at these... Costs me $50 to change my oil including the filter. This is just wasting money.

Perhaps the subject could have been more specific, but the question is "what is easier to get," not "what oil is best."

The car also runs on 87 octane without any issue. I don’t suppose you use it to save a few pennies though?

Irrelevant argument as performance is significantly compromised running lower octane gas. Timing will be retarded to prevent detonation and thus power and fuel economy will be reduced. If the engine didn't compensate, it would knock and be damaged. Over the counter Castrol vs. the equivalent Professional will make zero difference in performance or lubrication. If you think otherwise, you don't understand how oil works.

There is no guarantee pre-detonation would occur at all. It sure could, but most likely wont under normal conditions. Just as in putting generic oil in. It’s all hypothetical things the could/can happen. All just risks you have to be willing to take.

Ah the old oil and octane debate. :icon_lurk5:
I use what the guys that made the car tell you to use, that simple. Maintenance cost money, if you want to go cheap on your car, go ahead its your car. ( speaking in general terms to no one specific)
My DD is a 2008 VW Passat wagon with 160K on the ODO. I use 0-40 Mobile 1 euro formula bought for 24 bucks for the 5qts at Wallmart, that fits the VW 502. I run the 91 octane gas as recommended. VW'S are supposed to be famous for sludge and carbon build, I have had no problems with ether. I do the maintenance by the book and have had zero problems other than the normal oil leaks etc. for a car this old and with these miles.

Go pull a datalog from any modern performance car and you'll see long term feedback knock. If you think more knock isn't guaranteed after dropping octane 6 points, i don't know what to tell you.

I make the cars :icon_shrug:

:icon_headbang:

Your car, your money, so do as you wish, but this is not good advice at all when there are possibly people on here that may not know better. Nothing against you personally, but for the love of God, please nobody follow this advice.

Not all engine oils are created equal. Spec oil has additives, as shown by oil analysis, that not every generic oil would have. These additives matter, as you have direct injection engine that is prone to chain wear and sludge on intake. Using substandard oil on a standard oil change interval would result in these issues manifesting in your engine.

Additives matter a great deal. As someone with a number of classic cars with flat tappet cams, if I ever not use correct oil (or zinc additive) I would have flat cams in a hurry. Jaguar engine is just like that, but with different additives/issues.

Personally, I use JLR spec oil and change it twice a year or every 6000 km. Why? Because oil change is cheaper than engine out rebuild around 2025. I am paying forward (to myself).

Hopefully not M5 with "consumable" rod bearings. Someone "engineered" that too. :icon_bricks:

Coincidentally, if you change oil more often, use spec oil, and warm it up before driving, these rod bearings and VANOS pumps last A LOT longer.

Come back to me when you design a perfect engine, get it past your bean counters and EPA regulators then in THAT unicorn engine oil might not matter...

No one is suggesting using substandard oil; and that's the whole point. I applaud your understanding of the importance of additives, but suggest you take the time to learn what oil has what additives, and how they are consumed in a modern engine. Name brand, over the counter oils have the same additives and detergents as the Jaguar spec. oils do, just in mildly varying quantities; often lower on the spec. oil end. Often these oils are spec'd to assist in emissions and fuel economy regulations, rather than provide top level protection.

That being said... regardless of the oil you use, when changing it at 6000 km, you will never, ever use up those additives. You are always flushing them down the drain. 8 quarts of oil worth of additives should last a minimum of 15-20k km in a V8 engine. You're just throwing perfectly good oil away. And if that's worth it for your piece of mind, that's fine. But just know you're not getting any benefit from the expensive oil. Either way, you're not rebuilding your engine in 2025 because of oil choices.
The M5 rod bearing issue is a well noted clearance problem, admittedly, poorly designed. But irrelevant to oil selection. The internal bearing failure on the vanos pump I'd also argue has nothing to do with oil selection, and rather a cheap, poorly designed bearing, but I won't go down that rabbit hole. No... I don't work for BMW.