My 2019 R has a defective blinkers and lamps switch. It is unable to turn off exterior lights. Headlights still work on auto and will turn off but al exterior LED lights remain on.
dealer can't fix until Nov 19. I have had the battery die twice so far. Tonight I removed the front L/R fuses 16/17 for front exterior lights. I could not find in the owner's manual any reference to rear LED lights.

Does anyone know the two fuse locations? I assume it is in the trunk's fuse box.

Thanks

 

There is no fuse for the rear lights on these cars. Taillights are directly wired into the solid state BCM. No way to disconnect minus unplugging them directly at assembly.

 

thanks Rummy!.
I was going to start pulling out each fuse to see if it turned the lights off/ You saved me the trouble and educated me.
i guess i will stick with my remote start every 6 hours plan during the night or buy a trickle charger or call Jag dealer and go ape **** screaming i spent over a $100k for a piece of **** that has to be jump started everyday and the earliest you can fix it is 3 weeks from now. I need it fixed this week!

Ironically my first Jag, a brand new 2017 F-type wouldn't start the first morning i went out to drive it. I learned a lot about bringing a dead jag back to life that day and the next day and the next day. The dealer picked the car up and the problem was a bad battery from the beginning and old software. Two weeks later the warning "pull over let water temp cool down" alarm displayed. I waited ten minutes till the temp dropped and drove again for 15 minutes and the message displayed again. this went on for 10-15 minutes for my 10 mile ride home. The dealer picked up the car and found the belt that runs everything had broken. He said in all his years in Jaguar service he had never seen this happen with a brand new Jag.

After that, the F-type was problem free and a joy.

 

Just disconnect the battery. That will stop the drain. Don't shut the trunk...

 

that is so obvious it's why i didn't think of it.
thanks. This won't require i have to pair the smart key every time i reconnect it? Can i get away with just disconnecting the positive terminal or do i have to do both?

 

Don't disconnect the positive terminal as doing so can easily cause sparks and it is much more difficult than the easy way.
The quick and easy way to disconnect the battery is to unbolt the earth/ground lead (which runs from the negative battery terminal) from where it bolts to the floor of the trunk/boot.

 

Yes - disconnect negative. If you do positive and the lead touches any exposed bodywork by mistake it will short the battery

You don't have to reprogram key fobs. Most likely you will need to
- reset the clock
- reset the window up limit for the auto close (takes 30s - lots of posts on here with instructions)
Possible you have to reset radio favorites although that's never been an issue for me

 

+1
Correct battery connect / disconnect sequence:
Connect positive then negative
Disconnect negative then positive
In your instance you only have to disconnect the negative to stop power to the car since you're not removing the battery.

 

Not that it helps the OP, but I don't follow...

If you disconnect the positive lead and touch it to the exposed bodywork nothing will happen because there is no complete circuit for electrons to flow.

In it's quiescent state, the car draws lets say 60mA 'ish - that current flows through both the negative AND positive terminals - The negative will therefore spark exactly the same as the positive.

Having disconnected the battery umpteen times because of the OBD port hanging issue with my reader, it is far easier to just lift the positive lead and leave it off with a piece of cardboard or an insulator between it, and the +ve terminal post.

 

I agree with Tel who posted essentially what I was about to post.

The only way you short battery with positive lead is if it touches bodywork whilst still connected to battery positive terminal (impossible)

Sparks when connecting or disconnecting are due to current flow, it's the same current through both terminals so the spark potential
is the same irrespective of which terminal is connected or disconnected

 

Hi Tel and Paul_59. It's because the wrench you use is metal and highly conductive. So when you put it on the positive terminal to unbolt it, if it accidentally touches any part of the metal bodywork while undoing it, the battery is shorted. Same is not true for the negative. So standard practice is to remove negative first.

I'm also careful not to touch the loose positive lead onto the bodywork as that would short across the car's electronics. Given second start stop batteries, capacitors and other sensitive electronics I think that's best avoided too. Although I saw somewhere a suggestion to disconnect positive and negative and hold the free ends together for 30s. Maybe that's ok but not a risk I would take...

 

Sure you can get away with it, but why risk it? It is always good practice to remove the ground from any circuit (AC or DC) first, and connect the ground last. Was a power generation technician for many years, and it only takes one mistake, so not worth the risk to me. A car battery will flow more amps than a welding machine when still grounded and your wrench accidentally touches something as you're removing the positive cable. It will not do that if the ground is removed.

 

If you lift just the battery hatch/cover and remove the (easily accessible) +ve terminal, I defy you to try and ground the battery terminal out with a spanner/wrench...look at it, physically impossible on my layout. You'll just hit carpet, which as we know is a relatively good insulator!

The -ve terminal is a pig to get to, because of the BMS that is attached to it and the fact that it's tucked right in a corner.

Is your main battery layout different perhaps to the late Series I F-Types with one battery?

 

Old habits die hard. Good ones and bad ones. I get what you're saying, but I'll continue doing what I've done for 35 years. I just don't think it's good advice to give to others. No offense intended.

 

I release the negative connection first. Learned to do that through experience. I keep remembering a friend who was almost killed because his wrench slipped and connected to a starter terminal...the car lurched forward and fell off his jackstands!!!



There is a reason that many service procedures say to disconnect the battery before starting a repair. Someday, you WILL slip.

Years ago, my nickname at work was 'Sparky'. I admit, I wasn't always as smart experienced as I am now.