How to know if you have the wrong EQ curve:
Use a tone generator on your smartphone with bluetooth and play some 35HZ. You'll hear the tweeters buzzing immediately. That's what I did.

The tweeters "buzzing" is one of many symptoms of having the wrong EQ curve.

It's because among a number of other things, some sub signals were being routed incorrectly to the tweeters. That's the point you missed, but I could have explained it better the first time. The other symptoms are "it sounds bad", but that is difficult to quantify. So buzzing tweeters is what you are supposed to report to make sure you get the fix applied without being questioned or getting the runaround. I don't know the software version, sorry. I just know it sounded bad, it clearly had a bad EQ curve, there was no doubt about that, and now it sounds good with the right curve. You seem to feel yours sounds bad, so I'm sharing my experience.

There could be other issues with the car too. They'll apply the fix if you don't have the fix yet, and then you can go from there if you still are not satisfied with it. All I'm saying is that the fix made a dramatic difference. Just trying to help. Emphasis on "trying".... Is there some reason why around here 'help' seems to trigger people lately... I didn't know life with a 100,000 car sucked so much, but somehow we all cope and make it through the day....

 

So just want to confirm...there are 2 TSB's that have to been done?
JTB00537NAS1 & JTB00537NAS2

 

Just one, I think, nglaser: JTB00537NAS2. At the beginning of that document it says: "This version replaces all previous versions. Please destroy all previous versions." So you must DESTROY the first version, NAS1. (Sounds pretty serious.)

I'm going to request the upgrade, but I'm guessing my service guys will have to hear the tweeters buzzing before they'll do anything. Since it's very intermittent I probably won't be able to duplicate the problem for them. So no fix. Worth a try anyway.

 

If your dealer won't accommodate, go to another dealer.

 

The bulletin is actually very clear: (paraphrasing)

"If customer states tweeters buzzing, do this update".

My dealer said, "Yep, if you say it is happening, that's all we need."

I came armed with a couple songs and the tone generator just in case, but I did not need any of that.

 

Appreciate the guidance. I will attempt the tone generator. Too bad the code that shows the iControl software rev isn't a source of reference and there appears to be no other source other than dealer records. I need to set up a service to have the dealership replace the window chrome anyway so will ask them to also perform this TSB.

 

Use a tone generator on your smartphone with bluetooth and play some 35HZ. You'll hear the tweeters buzzing immediately. That's what I did.

Thismay help identify the problem with buzzing, you can be pretty sure it won't be caused by tweeters being fed 35Hz tone whatever eq boost is given.
Most bass speakers (woofer) will have fairly low acoustic output when you get as low as 35Hz,
tweeters tend to cover 1Khz upwards to 20KHz,
however the crossover frequency is configured you're not going to get measurable output of 35Hz from a tweeter (a good five octaves below the low end of its range)

 

Right, that's the problem, and an easy way to see if you have the old/wrong curve.

With the old EQ curve, the tweeters make a buzzing noise as if they are being fed some artifact of the 35 Hz signal.


Digital amplifiers and signal processing is very different from the old-school stuff. I have experience with both the old and new.

Paul59: Digital EQ curve and crossover are the exact same thing when you're using all digital processing, but what is accomplished is a lot more tricky than capacitors and resistors and active crossovers of the past. Crossovers/EQs/etc are all software now. I'm not going to get into time domain vs frequency domain and frequency modulation and all the other mumbo jumbo why this happens. It is not about the signal ACTUALLY going to the tweeter versus not going there, (as with a simple crossover) but the digital amp causing some artifact of it to go there. This is what is heard, and it is easy to confirm this way. 25+ years of car and home audio design and installation as a hobby, not to mention a degree with emphasis on digital signal processing... trust me on this lol. I tested it on multiple sources and with the tone generator.

Rest assured if you have the wrong coding in your amp, ndabunka, you'll hear 35HZ magically making sound from your tweeters. After the update, it's gone, and also everything sounds a lot better.
.

.

 

. doublepost

 

I believe his point is that 35Hz should not be funneled to the tweeters IF the system were working correctly. The fact that such a signal (any signal really) DOES get routed to the tweeters would be indicative of an erroneously configured system. Sounds like this change removes that error.

 

Got the TSB done yesterday, and, as others have stated, night and day difference. It's kind of annoying that they hadn't already done it before I took delivery, but w/e.

 

So hard to understand how quality control can let these vehicles into the marketplace as they did....., just "stupid business". **** the customer off, when it could have been avoided. I just don't understand!!! Glad you are happy.

 

I did just purchase a used 2105 F Type V6 base with 40K miles on it. Since it is still under warranty, will the dealer help with the buzzing? (I simply cannot unhear it, and it is annoying)

Along that line, I was wondering if any member has dealt with the service department at the San Jose, CA Jaguar dealership

 

They have to deal with it....period end of story.

 

I took my '15 F Type in to have a stud replaced on the rear wheel and have the buzzing in the audio system checked.

The dealer is replacing the subwoofers. Looks like a fairly large job. The load the SW too.
Anxious to get it back and listen to what it sounds like.

can't complain about the dealer trying to duck an issue.

 

? What do you mean by ...
"The load the SW too."?
?

 

Should have said they will do the software TSB as well.

 

Just one thought. Before they replace the subs (yes a time consuming job), the software update may fix any "perceptual" or "real" issues. I would hold off on commissioning the subs until the software TSB is done..., and if things clear up...you are good to go. If they don't then you do the subs. Just a thought, however not knowing or hearing your specific case, I can only render a "high level" thought on this. Would hate to see you hung up and work done that may not be needed after all. Good Luck.

 

That ship sailed. I just said I was getting some buzzing in the system when they wrote the ticket. What I expected was for them to say they couldn't find anything. Instead, it's the software update and new subs. It's fine with me, I trust the dealer.

I want the damn car back though. I'm driving the low end jag loaner 4 door and it's a less than thrilling experience. Nice of the dealer to be so good about loaners though.

 

I just got the software fix done on mine, and it makes a huge difference! Thanks to all who posted their results here!!!