MOST issue - Audio Amplifier Module Problem - RESOLVED
#1
MOST issue - Audio Amplifier Module Problem - RESOLVED
Apologize up front, not a jag, but a 2012 Land Rover LR4. Not getting very far on the rover forums, but hoping someone might be able to help me out here given the similarities and it seems there are more people familiar with programming the modules on this forum.
Currently have a bunch of stuff not working in the infotainment department: navigation, all audio, backup camera, bluetooth. Troubleshot it as far as the audio amplifier module was not sending along the MOST signal.
I installed one of the fiber bypass plugs at the amp harness connector, verified the signal was now getting further in the MOST ring, and now the backup camera works again, but rest is still non-functional. Hoping it is still due to loss of communication with the amp.
I can find several replacement amps in the junkyards (specifically BJ32-19C164-AF, very similar to the "high line" ones in the jags), but if I install a replacement, will it require programming that can only be done by the dealer (or by someone with a functional SDD setup and subscription)?
Any help/suggestions would be greatly appreciated,
thanks
rich
Currently have a bunch of stuff not working in the infotainment department: navigation, all audio, backup camera, bluetooth. Troubleshot it as far as the audio amplifier module was not sending along the MOST signal.
I installed one of the fiber bypass plugs at the amp harness connector, verified the signal was now getting further in the MOST ring, and now the backup camera works again, but rest is still non-functional. Hoping it is still due to loss of communication with the amp.
I can find several replacement amps in the junkyards (specifically BJ32-19C164-AF, very similar to the "high line" ones in the jags), but if I install a replacement, will it require programming that can only be done by the dealer (or by someone with a functional SDD setup and subscription)?
Any help/suggestions would be greatly appreciated,
thanks
rich
#2
#3
Welcome to the forum Rich,
Start off with a Jaguar amp and we could eventually convert you to owning the complete vehicle.
If you go ahead with substituting a used Jaguar unit, please close out the thread by coming back and telling us how it worked out.
Graham
Start off with a Jaguar amp and we could eventually convert you to owning the complete vehicle.
If you go ahead with substituting a used Jaguar unit, please close out the thread by coming back and telling us how it worked out.
Graham
#4
Awesome, thanks for the reply. I also see some BJ32-19C164-AG's come up in the junkyard interchange searches. Curious if those would also be plug n play (perhaps there is an update to them that has fixed what went wrong in mine)?
Thanks again,
Rich
#5
The -AG version is the "same" as -AF, just an update of some sort. Will also be compatible, just plug & play.
If you wanted to go a bit further here, it's also possible to upgrade from the 11-speaker 600W Harmon Kardon system to the 17-speaker 1200W Harmon Kardon Logic7 Surround system. I've done this on a few Disco4 / LR4 now.
If you need to buy a replacment amp anyhow, then why not get a Logic7 version and go for an upgrade...
The Logic7 amp is CH32-19C164-BC or CH32-19C164-BD.
You need the additional speakers, which are available as complete d-pillar trims, plus the center speaker that goes in the dashboard. There is some wiring missing however I have made up some "retrofit harness" to solve that problem.
However you do need some software changes to enable the Surround functions, where are you located? I might know someone nearby who could do it. Or if you have a Nanocom or IID, it's possible to do the software changes with those.
You can also just fit the Logic7 amplifier in place of the non-surround one, it should work the same without any programming, have seen this on several other cars that have been upgraded, as an interim fix.
If you wanted to go a bit further here, it's also possible to upgrade from the 11-speaker 600W Harmon Kardon system to the 17-speaker 1200W Harmon Kardon Logic7 Surround system. I've done this on a few Disco4 / LR4 now.
If you need to buy a replacment amp anyhow, then why not get a Logic7 version and go for an upgrade...
The Logic7 amp is CH32-19C164-BC or CH32-19C164-BD.
You need the additional speakers, which are available as complete d-pillar trims, plus the center speaker that goes in the dashboard. There is some wiring missing however I have made up some "retrofit harness" to solve that problem.
However you do need some software changes to enable the Surround functions, where are you located? I might know someone nearby who could do it. Or if you have a Nanocom or IID, it's possible to do the software changes with those.
You can also just fit the Logic7 amplifier in place of the non-surround one, it should work the same without any programming, have seen this on several other cars that have been upgraded, as an interim fix.
#6
I'm located in the USA. I was thinking about doing just that, but thought that since my truck has a build date of 10/12, from looking at this:
Versions | Jaguar & Land Rover Diagnostics
It would appear I need to use an activated online version of V138 or higher of SDD in order to make any module programming changes. V130 only works up to 8/2012 build dates. Or am I interpreting this wrong? Or does the IID tool get around this somehow?
I can find the AG amps for $100 US, so I may just pick one up and throw it in to get me going for now, while I look for a long term solution.
rich
Versions | Jaguar & Land Rover Diagnostics
It would appear I need to use an activated online version of V138 or higher of SDD in order to make any module programming changes. V130 only works up to 8/2012 build dates. Or am I interpreting this wrong? Or does the IID tool get around this somehow?
I can find the AG amps for $100 US, so I may just pick one up and throw it in to get me going for now, while I look for a long term solution.
rich
#7
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#8
I'm in Maryland.
So the IID can do this kind of module programming without having access to a subscription service? If JLR releases a software/firmware update, does IID provide them?
Sorry for all all the questions, trying to get up to speed on how to interface with/maintain this vehicle.
So the IID can do this kind of module programming without having access to a subscription service? If JLR releases a software/firmware update, does IID provide them?
Sorry for all all the questions, trying to get up to speed on how to interface with/maintain this vehicle.
#9
I don't know anyone in Maryland unfortunately, I think the closest would be a forum member in New Jersey, he has a proper working SDD and quite a bit of experience with it.
I'm not really familiar with the IID Tool, I know it can do the CCF editing, but i don't know about module programming capabilities. I use SDD myself.
I'm not really familiar with the IID Tool, I know it can do the CCF editing, but i don't know about module programming capabilities. I use SDD myself.
#10
So I picked up a -AG amp to get me going, but same problem. MOST signal does not get past the amplifier. With amp installed, audio/nav/backup camera don't work. If I disconnect the amp and put in the MOST bypass, the backup camera works.
I don't get it, I don't think I could have two bad amps?!
I don't get it, I don't think I could have two bad amps?!
#11
#13
#14
I only get the backup camera to work again when I put in the MOST loop. Everything else stays non-functional.
With or without the MOST bypass, I can't even select audio/video (it is greyed out). I can go into 4x4 settings, and audio settings, but that is about it. I can select navigation, but it never gets past the startup / initialization.
The only other thing I can think of is a bad IAM maybe not actually turning the amp on (along the lines of what you are saying). I have 12V at the amp main power connector, but I didn't pull the wiring diagram to see which pinout is actually the "amp enable."
Rich
With or without the MOST bypass, I can't even select audio/video (it is greyed out). I can go into 4x4 settings, and audio settings, but that is about it. I can select navigation, but it never gets past the startup / initialization.
The only other thing I can think of is a bad IAM maybe not actually turning the amp on (along the lines of what you are saying). I have 12V at the amp main power connector, but I didn't pull the wiring diagram to see which pinout is actually the "amp enable."
Rich
#15
There are two fused +12V supplies to the amp
Central Junction Box, F41, 5A, a yellow & red wire to the amp
Engine Junction Box, F69, 40A, a fat red wire to the amp
These feeds are on different plugs at the amp, the main power feed is the fat red wire, the "wake up" is the smaller yellow & red wire.
Central Junction Box, F41, 5A, a yellow & red wire to the amp
Engine Junction Box, F69, 40A, a fat red wire to the amp
These feeds are on different plugs at the amp, the main power feed is the fat red wire, the "wake up" is the smaller yellow & red wire.
#16
#17
I'm pretty certain my problem is the IAM but I have not yet picked one up and swapped it in (been too swamped with other things). I have 12V main power at the amp, but no power at the amp turn-on connector (actually reading ~.7V) and do not hear a fan running. All fuses check out OK as well. Will post back when I finally get the IAM swapped in.
rich
rich
#18
Seems unlikely to be the IAM in my opinion.
The "wake-up" power on the yellow & red wire, comes directly from the central junction box, it's battery voltage just like the main power to the amp. If you have different voltages on those two power connections then i would suspect there is an issue with the central junction box. The IAM has no control over that voltage, actually the touchscreen and many other infotainment components are powered by battery voltage via the central junction box, so if the touchscreen is powering up, but the amp no, it pretty much isolates the problem to the wire between the amp and the CJB, or the CJB itself.
Can you try to measure the voltage at fuse 41 directly in the central junction box?
The "wake-up" power on the yellow & red wire, comes directly from the central junction box, it's battery voltage just like the main power to the amp. If you have different voltages on those two power connections then i would suspect there is an issue with the central junction box. The IAM has no control over that voltage, actually the touchscreen and many other infotainment components are powered by battery voltage via the central junction box, so if the touchscreen is powering up, but the amp no, it pretty much isolates the problem to the wire between the amp and the CJB, or the CJB itself.
Can you try to measure the voltage at fuse 41 directly in the central junction box?
#19
With truck running, I've got 14V at all audio related fuses (including 41).
I really think it has to be the IAM. With the amp bypassed, I would expect other "stuff" should be working. All the stuff that is part of the IAM is non-functional (bluetooth, navigation, radio).
Unfortunately, the wiring diagram that I have doesn't appear to match with my truck (even though its listed as 2010-2012 LR4) so I can't trace the path to confirm what you have stated.
rich
I really think it has to be the IAM. With the amp bypassed, I would expect other "stuff" should be working. All the stuff that is part of the IAM is non-functional (bluetooth, navigation, radio).
Unfortunately, the wiring diagram that I have doesn't appear to match with my truck (even though its listed as 2010-2012 LR4) so I can't trace the path to confirm what you have stated.
rich
#20
Send me a PM with your email address, and the VIN of your car, I can send you the right wiring diagrams.
Swapping the IAM is not always a straight forward deal, you need to get one with the exact same p/n, and ideally from a donor that had all the same features as your car; same level of audio, Satellite Radio, etc. Otherwise you probably have to update the Car Configuration File to the IAM in order for all those features to be available.
For example the navigation maps are stored on a hard drive inside the IAM, so you'd need to get a North American version, otherwise the maps will be wrong,
Swapping the IAM is not always a straight forward deal, you need to get one with the exact same p/n, and ideally from a donor that had all the same features as your car; same level of audio, Satellite Radio, etc. Otherwise you probably have to update the Car Configuration File to the IAM in order for all those features to be available.
For example the navigation maps are stored on a hard drive inside the IAM, so you'd need to get a North American version, otherwise the maps will be wrong,