With all the discussions about Eaton vs KB. I thought Ide post the overlays of dyno results from when I ran the eaton @10psi, vs the KB @12psi on my 05 Nissan Frontier. You can see boost comes in higher and does NOT drop like the Eaton. Keep in mind I have a ton of drive train loss with a 4x4 truck, 4.56 gears and big tall mud tires, and this is a dyno dynamics, not a higher showing Dynojet. Ife you switch to the Avos hi output Ken Bell youll start off much higher in boost and finish in the mid 20's I believe, and there is a much larger increase in power. The point is to look at the efficiency differance and boost/power outputs.
Cheers

 

Good apples to apples post.

I was watching my boost gauge on during my dyno and my Gen V did not loose any boost to redline, maybe the previous designed Eatons do, but mine climbed and held 12-12.5 solid to redline.

 

whats your redline. youll notice it holds till 5700-5800rpm. course it depends on drive ratios, blower/engine size etc....

 

My redline is about 6000 rpm. I was watching the gauge and it read up to 12.5 solid, when it went off WOT, it had a quick blip of +1/2 lb overboost, but never dropped from 4000-6000. Supposedly this blower had a very mild port job. "He who shall not be named" said it ran +8% more flow on his blower dyno after the porting, but I never know what can be trusted from his statements.

I also have a much larger intake track than stock, 92mm MAF, 4" to 3.5" intake tube, maxbored TB, and everything is ported all the way to just before the rotors, and slightly less back pressure than stock, so that may account for the better breathing.

 

Well that will be one of the next upgrades to either a 90mm fbw Gm or jag throttle body and rewire and tune for it. It presently has the stock small TB about 65mm. conicidentally is the same on the V8's for Nissan.

 

65mm is small, what are your intake vacuum figures? That will tell how much you can improve further.

 

Geeze I need a twinscrew...

 

10-12"@idle, but i have not done the before and after tb checks like suggested yet. Ive always had that @idle with cams, but its not lopey. My math showed my first 3.75" pulley "should have" given me the blower drive ratio to hit 12psi. Not the 8psi i hit. Had a 3.25" made to hit 12psi so working towards the total package down the road

 

Sorry, I meant the intake vacuum when under WOT at the higher rpms.

The easier the air can go into the cylinders, the lower the pressure again, but of course the intake vacuum plays also a role (at a certain point) as to how much pressure can be build up. That can make it difficult to calculate what pressure levels.

The higher vacuum could explain why your power increase is slowly dropping from 5500, but I have no experience what a 4 wheel drive drivetrain can have in losses as well.

 

Well the gauge is hooked up below the sc and ide have to switch to port in the inlet neck to monitor. And honestly at full throttle i no longer watch anything but the road and no gauges. Its a handfull now

 

Yeah, have seen your video, its a both hands at the steering wheel as well ;-)

Am curious at the vacuum level you measure, as I would suspect there's some good gain to make, please measure it after the TB. You could also measure before the TB to see if there is more to gain from the airfilter box to the TB.

 

Well the air box is staying as is since i spend good money to buy a volant box sealed to a opening in the fender about6" oval. And then had a 3.5" aluminum tube and machined mafs mount to go from the box to tb. The box i had to move the outlet 3" forward to clear the aftercooler reservoir. So I wont be doing anymore changes on that end. I went from a 3 3/8 ID, to 3.5" id and that changed my afr leaner before I got it tuned. Not drawing hot underhood air netted me approx 1-2psi on the autometer guage in the cab. That showed 14psi but on the evidently more accurate dyno gauge showed 12.5psi. But again i more than doubled my previous increases with the ken bell. My previouse was the Corvette air filter mounted to a 5" long piece of inlet tube containing the mafs and filter on the front. Even at idle there was nothing but hot air right of the radiator going into the filter. So I was anxious to get that corrected with a perm setup for cool air.

 

it would seem that at WOT and the ECU starts to see a vacuum it would start to pull some fuel and go leaner on AFRs.

and possibly add timing, both together could make problems!

 

this is a mafs system not speed density. the ecu doesnt have a sensor to look at vacuum or boost. Its looks a intake air temps, coolant temp, mass air flow and fuel trims. We tune it with Uprev software to retune the factory ecu maps.

 

interesting? has anyone ever tried a speed density system?

most really hi-performance fuel injected cars seem to use a SD system! standalone ECUs. not mechanical injected engines.

and some of the fastest cars are turbocharged!

 

uh Ron I dont understand where your going with this. I still use the factory ECU and setup. I want everything working from cruise to ac etc. Afterall its a daily driven 4X4 I offroad in the mountains like Moab Utah and drive the 1300 miles to get there, and then back again. plus I tow and work the truck.
ON my 383 87 Chevy Suburban It uses a speed density system with the Accel super ram. and a 300horse NOS system plumbed into it.
Turbo, fastest cars yeah. Running big stuff fuel systems and controllers. Mike Moran is pretty much THE man in this area with a new turbo 4000hp totally billet engine, every single piece. But is there a point youre trying to make Im not following??

 

small world, i just spent 2 days in Moab, traveling from Austin to seattle wa. by car.

my bad! i thought yours was a car,not truck,. and i thought topic was about pure power outputs.

i f i was gonna go for a good tow and daily driver truck,it seems that a diesel would be the choice.
most good diesels will go 300hp and 600tq, so theory says a 500hp diesel can make 1000 tq, those kind of #s can do serious performance stuff.

and OMG, a 4.56 final drive ratio, fuel consumption must be interesting! especially towing.

agreed M. Moran is the man, along with NRE, Nelson racing engines, unlimited money= unlimited HP!

 

Well remember 33" tall tires. So 4.56 is not bad at all. And actually picked up 2mpg on freeway to moab last yr over before trip and city maybe .5mpg. But nooow with newly built power and 1000cc injectors 8mpg (down from the 10-13 before) has been the norm. Course would help if i kept my foot out of it more. The only diesel avail is in the (not avail in us) navara. My next truck if i get one(i have 3 now) would definitly be a diesel. Better mpg and yes more power to go with it argh argh argh