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How much does the interior need. Completely replaced or just the front seats repaired and carpets replaced?
Hi Chuck, IMO the entire interior needs to be replaced. The car was outside too long so it's all the usual suspects. Leather is deteriorated, padding is stinky, door cards are damaged, wood veneer is faded and coming off. I think it's going to need a 100% redo. So I believe that's going to include:
- Front & Back seat re-upholster
- New headliner
- New door cards and covering(leather?)
- A complete interior kit (that's what I said in the last 3 lines, isn't it?)
- Re-veneer or replace interior wood trim.
- New radio
(Did I forget anything? )
Body has a couple of apparent bondo repairs so I'm concerned what we'll find when those are gotten rid of (a lot of "air"?)
This is why my Wife and I are planning to completely redo the colors of the car. The Jaguar started life with a cream exterior/black interior. We are planning a Titanium exterior paint/Parchment(light tan) interior. We are also planning a non-standard Cherry stain veneer.
But first, I have to address our oil pressure drop.
There are several places that sell complete interior kits. Door panels complete, wool headliner, carpeting and pads, etc as well as the seat covers. I got leather seat covers, everything else vinyl. Price was around $6k. You will probably need a professional to install the seat covers. Back seat is pretty easy, but I would pay to have the front seats done as it was a pain.
I can't believe it's been almost a year since I've posted in this thread. Should I continue here? Or start a new thread? For now I'm going to continue here. Please pardon me if it seems like I;m jumping around chronologically - a lot has happened in the last year and I may mix things up. Sorry.
Here's what I've been working on this past week. Problem - upholstery is damaged beyond repair; needs replaced. Solution (Interim) is to rebuild the seats. I have made some lucky Ebay scores in this department, buying some front seat frames and what I consider "unobtainium" - front seat springs. This is only my second time sewing anything this complex, and I have not sewed anything in the last few decades. I didn't know where burlap could be sourced so, when I saw 3 coffee bags (cheap) at my favorite barista I pulled the trigger Trial fitting - seems pretty good for a "first" attempt IMO
Glad to hear you are making progress. I have extra seat parts if you need anything. I get burlap from a fabric store, but I bet the coffee bags smell better.
Understood. Leave it in the other thread! Don't post in Gene's thread. Only posted because I noticed others had! Your car, your thread, your prerogative!
Good luck with the car. Interesting thread!
Last edited by Glyn M Ruck; 03-04-2019 at 10:27 AM.
I mentioned in my other post that I was getting my transmission worked on. Do any other members have a DG-250 in their cars? If so, is it just me, or does that cause you to rev your engine kinda high? Do I just need to turn the radio up and stop worrying?
my 3.8 liter has a DG-250. It has a very low 3rd gear, for highway speeds I suppose. First and second gears make it take off a little faster than my XJ-6 with a BW66.
but having to rev the engine real high?? I don't understand the question.
I will need to re-install my tach (and probably replace the tach generator) to give specific data. When I approach the speeds that other traffic is going it seems to me that my engine is revving high. Sorry, Mk1 ear-hole tachometer is not more accurate than that
I have had a "Speedometer" app running while I've gone through the gears. The transitions usually occur at 15mph(2nd Gear) and about 35mph(3rd Gear). Wife observations are that I accelerate very well from a stop. I'll get the tach in and report back
at 81 mph in 3rd gear, (the "sweet spot" in my engine, where everything seems to "settle" when going at a constant highway speed), I'm at 3,200 rpm. Well at least that is what the tachometer says. But the XJ-6 is similar with a 4.2 liter and BW66 transmission, so it must be correct give or take a few rpm.
The only way to reduce that rpm is to replace those 3-speed transmissions with 4-speed transmissions.
Going to a longer rear axle will blunt your performance off the line a little but give you less frenetic cruising. Mk2's have seen many rear axle ratio changes done by people over the years to suit their particular set up. Most out of the Jaguar parts bin without going custom. I've seen ratios from 2.88 to 1 (one of the XJ gearsets IIRC) to 4.55 to 1 (Daimler V8/250 gearset.)
I don't know Mk2's like I know S Types but I would first establish what axle you have at present & then chat to one of the specialists about your options. That way you could keep her looking original.
EDIT: Even on the S Type, 420, Daimler Sovereign the factory messed around with axle ratios over the production period.
Last edited by Glyn M Ruck; 03-11-2019 at 04:58 PM.
Gene,
Overdrive transmissions solve a multitude of drive ability issues when matched with a rear ratio to get you off the line and operate an engine in the sweet spot. I set up a comparison table in Excel. Trans ratios for each gear ( one table for each gear in the right column, axel ratios across the top. Also included a tire diameter variable. Each table calculates MPH for each gear at a given rpm.
With knowing the engines power band or best response rpm ranges you can see the speed achieved in each gear.
For instance at 7000 RPM, 4:11 gear, 6th gear .68, and a 25.7" tire - theoretical top end of my MK2 is 192MPH. SCARE ME!
Last edited by lickahotskillet; 03-12-2019 at 09:50 PM.
03-16-2018, 04:13 AM
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