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StuG,
I had to remove rear hubs on similar vehicle, to overhaul rear brakes.
I purchased a puller, see photo.I set up four legs on the wheel studs, using the wheel nuts.
I loosened the main hub retaining nut, don't remove fully, as this prevents the hub flying off in an out of control trajectory! I wound up the centre bolt with some considerable torque, while hitting the cross bar with a copper mallet , I gave the end of the screwed puller bolt a sharp firm blow with a hammer, this took some considerable effort, 6 + blows, and the hub ' popped off'. On one hub I left the puller' loaded up' for about 2-3hrs, while I dismantled the opposite side brake/ hub assembly.Hope this helps, Regards Rusty.
Stu,
search this forum, you will find plenty of info on here, just make sure any puller you use has a ball in the end or similar to avoid damaging the half shaft end.
Often leaving the puller on overnight under tension with the nut still attached works when they are really stubborn.
You can search for Churchill hub removal tool also
This is one job on the Mark 2 that really does need some patience, and the right tools too. It has been a problem since the 60s when the car was in production. A bit of heat on the hub may help as well as the use of a lump hammer.
I have heard that some Jaguar clubs has specialty tools that they loan out to members as needed. While you are at the Rally, you should ask about who might have a Churchill tool.
As far as I am aware only the Jaguar Clubs of North America have a tool loan program. I think you can hire tools from the JEC or perhaps buy reproductions from them. Perhaps this link will be of some assistance. This is one catalog for tools of the 50s and 60s.
The rear hubs are finally off! Thanks again for all of the help and especially to Rusty (OES) for offering the loan of the proper puller. I was able to source one from a member in the local Jaguar Club.
"The correct puller is the key" and you need to make sure that it is mounted squarely on the axle shaft. The hubs were stubborn, but they came off after about 6-8 blows with the hammer.
Hello we too are really struggling,we are in the uk working on my uncles 1967 mk2 jaguar and the hub will just not move.we have snapped and bent several of different hub pullers,all be it not Churchill,but we are on the verge of giving up. Does anyone have a link to a uk hub puller that will work
Hello we too are really struggling,we are in the uk working on my uncles 1967 mk2 jaguar and the hub will just not move.we have snapped and bent several of different hub pullers,all be it not Churchill,but we are on the verge of giving up. Does anyone have a link to a uk hub puller that will work
Hi,
I had a similar problem and I was able to cut the brake disk off with an angle grinder then remove the four bolts in the end of the axle and remove the entire hub and driveshaft assembly.
I then took the hub to someone with a 30 ton press and we pressed the buggers out (leaving the nut on so not damage the end of the axle and to contain the force when it goes).
On the MK2 I am doing now I bought a home made puller at the Jag Spares Day at Stoneleigh and that shifted them fairly easily.
I think the key is that you need to pull from the wheel studs or from within the area inside of the wheel studs. I found trying to pull from the outside of the hub didn't seem to work and it may have something to do with the long taper on the axle (I think its called a Morse taper).
My indie tried for a week to pull the rear hubs. Chains and a hydraulic press didn't work. Chinese hub pullers were a waste of time and money. I purchased this puller on Amazon/USA. It wasn't cheap ($250 shipped to Australia) but it worked and quite easily. Used in conjunction with a club hammer. Please remember to screw the axle nut on a few turns to help centre the tool, but most importantly, to prevent a broken arm or ribs if the hub comes flying off!
We managed to get a loan of a massive old hub puller but still no movement. We have started to drill holes around the centre to weaken its grip
It has to be tightened up as much as you can with lots of heavy grease on the threads and the end of the axle where the puller makes contact with.
After it can no longer be tightened, you give the main shaft of the puller a sharp whack with a 10 pound hammer, at least.
Continue tightening the puller and hitting the shaft with the hammer.
If the puller gets damaged and/or the end if the axle becomes distorted, then the puller is not of good quality and/or does not fit the end of the axle properly.
In my link I had a machine shop make an adapter so the OTC puller would fit correctly on the axle, with out the adapter, the axle would have been damaged.
The adapter threaded on the axle, protecting the threads as well as making sure the puller stayed exactly centred on the end of the axle.
Yes, we did exactly as you discribed with our own adapter, all be it 7lb hammer not 10.but no movement
Use a bigger torque bar to increase the tension on the puller _ use a bigger hammer.
I've come across around 5 cases like this and all of them eventually came free.
Some used the Churchill tool, and the rest used the OTC tool _ I loaned out my adapter to one with the OTC tool, and it came free with two tries.
If your puller is only using 3 of the five bolts on the hub, then it may not work, all five have to be utilized.
The puller has to be designed to bolt onto all 5 studs.
If you still have no success, I will loan you my OTC tool and adpater, if you pay the postage too and from, I'm in Canada.
Well he finally got it off,
He used a large puller with an electric jack hammer on the end of the puller and it just popped off.
The other 3 came off straight away.
Unfortunately though we damaged the drivers side half shaft, as the new nut will not go on.
So next job is buy a new half shaft and bearing
03-21-2017, 07:54 AM
