MKI / MKII S type 240 340 & Daimler 1955 - 1967

1965 3.8S Exhaust Manifold

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Old Oct 10, 2015 | 09:37 AM
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Default 1965 3.8S Exhaust Manifold

Hello
Does anyone have any advice on how to remove the rear nuts on the rear exhaust manifold on my 3.8? So far I have only been able to get a good grip on the nut with a shorty open end wrench which offers little to no leverage. I already took off the heater box and pipes to try to get more room but didn't help much.

thanks, Mark
 
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Old Oct 10, 2015 | 03:19 PM
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not easy but the nuts were not born there, so they can be removed. It's the same with any other Jaguar engine, regardless of car model.

you need patience, contortions, a mirror, and several wrenches, 1/2" or 13mm, whichever grabs better at the point where the nut hex is, even a small adjustable wrench helps.

another approach is from below the engine, with a flashlight and an open end wrench that ratches, the Craftsman one sold at Sears.

removing the front manifold first, opens up the area too.
 
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Old Oct 10, 2015 | 05:39 PM
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Typical British engineering though, or the lack there of.
I'm sure Jaguar mounted the manifolds while the engine was outside the car.
 
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Old Oct 11, 2015 | 01:31 PM
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Originally Posted by JeffR1
Typical British engineering though, or the lack there of.
I'm sure Jaguar mounted the manifolds while the engine was outside the car.
They did indeed !
 
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Old Oct 18, 2015 | 06:06 AM
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About to replace mine too. Thanks for the heads up. From memory, they were also a bitch to get off.
 
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Old Oct 18, 2015 | 02:38 PM
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Thanks for the replies, that explains a lot, them being installed when engine was outside.
 
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Old Oct 18, 2015 | 02:42 PM
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I have a 340 left hand drive, so I think my rear manifold was slightly more accessible, but not much. The pipe is more forward to clear the steering box and linkage.
I used a 12 point 1/2 inch box end wrench.
It wouldn't fit over some of the nuts because the thickness of the wrench was coming in contact with the casting, so I just ground it down.
It was an older Sears craftsman, so the quality was better and grinding it thinner didn't weaken it to to point where it would break.

I laid a bunch blankets over the engine to enable me to get my body far enough in there.
From there I could get my arm down far enough to get at the middle and back nuts.
In cases like these I always make sure the threads are clean and well lubricated with copper ant-seize so I can put them on easily by hand.
I remember my wrist getting quite sore, one agonizing quarter turn after another when I took them off.
 
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