Interesting statement from them "To be used with a coil resistance above 1.5 ohms only"...
It implies that anything over 1.5 ohms will work.
I guess anything less, would ruin the unit _ inexpensive enough though _ never seen that one before.

EDIT:
Just read this, so looks like the 3 ohm coil will work:

"Powerspark Electronic Ignition Kits are designed to work with a coil resistance above 1.5 ohms, typically 3.0 ohms. Some performance coils operate at a lower resistance and will need the High Energy electronic ignition kit".

 

Before you fit the new coil it would be a good idea to remove the dissy cap and check that the points are still in good order, even if the coil is suspect if the points do not open she ain't going to start, replace the condenser as well, I had one go one my S11 and it ended up blowing one of the silencer boxes out.
Also I have the same electronic unit that you have ordered and it works fine. If when you are timing your engine the marks seem to be fluttering around this is called spark scatter, caused by wear in the dissy shaft, again I had my dissy rebuilt and suggested that it needed new bushes, when I picked it up he said that the bushes were fine, the shaft was what had worn. Also check that the timing marks are true, I just found out that my TDC was actually pointing to 8 deg advance so effectively the engine was timed to fire on TDC, no wonder it felt 'Flat'

 

Okay. I'm back.

Put in the new Bosch coil. No difference.
In have an in line spark tester and they all show a spark.
But not sure if there's a timing issue, and if so, how that came to be.
Timing gun was inoperable out of the box, so I need to replace that.
BTW... where are the timing marks? I see the metal pointer off the bottom case in front. Are the marks in that pulley / flywheel? Best way to manually turn the motor?

Another issue... when trying to run it with these tests tonight, there was fuel actually leaking from a drain nipple on the bottom of the intake manifold... so fuel is definitely getting in the carbs. But why would it flood that much? Only the front carb. I wonder if I did something wrong when I opened the float bowl to see if there was a problem when initially troubleshooting a few weeks back? It also leaked out of a stub sticking out on top of that float bowl aparatus. So something I must have done isn't stopping the fuel by the float. NOTE: this isn't the original problem as this wasn't happening before.

Another question... on a positive ground car, do I hook up the timing light with red lead to ground?

 

You have to change the points and condenser too OR install your electronic ignition.
The coil is only part of the problem.

Yes on the timing light, the red goes to POSITIVE, so in the case of a positive ground car that would be the body of the car somewhere.

Timing marks are on the front dampener, at least mine are _ they are hard to see.

Number one is at the back of the engine.
If the light does not work, try turning the pick-up in the other direction.

 

Jeff is absolutely right, a dodgy condenser will give a poor spark, as will burnt contacts, if the condenser or contacts are completely shot you will get no spark, often the contacts will look ok on first glance, but if you open them up you will find a crater on one side and a mountain on the other this effectively closes up the gap resulting in a poor spark.

Here's quite a good write up on how it all works.
Ignition coil function and testing

Timing light has power feed positive (red) and negative(black) this is just power for the timing light, and there is a pick up which is connected to the spark plug lead.

You won't be able to use this for checking the timing before you have the car started, you will have to check/set the static timing, and then also the valve timing.

If you are sure you have a good spark, quickly check the static timing, if this is OK and you are sure you are getting fuel, and the car won't fire with quick start, then you will have to take off the cam covers and check the valve timing.

Even with a poor spark, the engine should fire with quick start unless the static, or valve timing are off.

The static timing could be off if the distributor was not tightened at some point, or the drive gear is worn/damaged, also the valve timing could be out if the timing chain is loose and jumped, the tensioner is driven by oil pressure, and there is a tiny gauze filter which can get clogged. Also turning these engines backwards manually can make the timing chain jump a tooth. You said that starting got worse and then wouldn't start at all if I recall, this would sound more like a loose distributor than valve timing, valve timing is pretty black and white and nothing in between, whereas ignition timing could get worse over time if the distributor was slightly loose.

If you have compression at the right time, a spark at the right time and fuel, the engine WILL fire, you must be systematical and fully eliminate one source at a time, once you have everything there it will fire/run, after that is is tuning the dynamic timing with the light, and fuel via the carbs.

If you have fuel leaking from the drain nipple it is either loose, or fuel is leaking from the seal for the bowl and running down the side and off the drain nipple. I'm not sure what part you refer to as "stub sticking out" maybe you could post a pic. Sounds like you haven't quite seated the bowl properly, or the bowl seal is damaged.

 

I have just checked the timing on my S11 4.2 and found that at TDC the pointer was actually at 8deg BTDC so effectively it was firing on TDC. I ended up removing the pointer and soldered a small piece of steel so that TDC was correct. I removed the spark plug from No1 piston and turned the crank until it stopped rising, not exactly scientific but a lot closer than it had been. Fuel out of the overflow shows that you have either a stuck float or float needle. Strip the float bowl and check it out again.

 

Thanks Jeff, Tilley Jon, and Robman.
I agree with the systematic approach Tilley referred to fuel to the carbs seem no problem. I’ll have to check bowl seating for leak source. How do I post a photo on a thread? I can send photos easily.

Spark is getting to plugs, but timing may be off. I did the reach down to feel how secure it was to rotate... didn’t budge, but that may not mean it’s correct.

Robman mentioned the No1 piston... I understood I should be using #6 cylinder which is the front cylinder. Static check? Is this manually finding the top of piston on the exhaust stroke? Thanks kind in advance. Let me know.

 

To post pictures _ click on the advanced button.
Scroll down to where it says "Manage Attachments" _ click on that.
Click on Browse in that new window and then upload.
If your photos are bigger then 1MB, it will take a while for them too load.

Did you replace your points and condenser yet.
Just because your getting spark, doesn't mean to say it's getting spark when the engine cranks.
It takes more for an ignition system to get spark under compression then a simple test out side the engine.
At any rate, you have to eliminate your points and condenser as the problem before assuming that the ignition is out.

And why would it be out, the distributor is tight ?
Did you check the rotor after removing the distributor cap to see if it turns _ it shouldn't.
If it does, then the roll pin is sheered off and or the drive gear is worn.
It's unlikely that the roll pin is sheered off or the drive gear is worn, but it takes very little time to check these things.


You must use number one at the back of the engine to check the timing, not number 6.
And not on the exhaust stroke, it fires on compression.
Remember too, that the rotor turns counter clock wise and the firing is 153624.
As number comes up on compression, the timing marks on the dampener will come in to view.

How's the oil level in your damper tubes ?
If there is no oil in the damper tubes, the pistons rise too quickly and the engine gets a big gulp of fuel _ this will cause hard starting.

 

Jeff's suggestions are spot on, my instinct tells me that it is spark or fuel.

When I talk fuel, I mean into the pistons not into the carbs, you can push as much fuel as you like into the carbs, but if they are not operating properly you may get no fuel into the piston chambers. If you have cranked it for a while, the choke is on and carbs are working, the spark plugs should be damp/wet, if they are still bone dry, that would suggest no fuel getting through.

However you have said it won't fire on quick start either, if that is the case then go down the spark option and follow Jeff's advice above, do that first and then check static timing, then see what happens.

 

Wow, this is great. You’ve given me a couple things here between you. Beacause the car died in my driveway, I’ve limited the extent that I’m “diving in”, and between job, kids, and a renovation I regret undertaking, my cycles are few, but I can still poke at it u til I transport it across town to my real garage.

Oil in damper... when I removed the covers to look for anything obvious and the oil was lost, and I hadn’t gotten to them yet as I’d shifted focus to spark, that likely explains my new over abundance of fuel. So I’ll rectify that, and thank you!!

Distributor cap not touched or removed... so still solid, but I’ll need to get that as the next order of business. For that I must get her to my man lab.
I’ll post pics too - thanks for that tip.

I will get back as soon as i do the distributor.

 

If you take it to a garage, the first thing he'll do is replace the points and condenser, but if you've ordered the electronic replacement, why not wait until you have "that" unit and get him to install it ?

 

Sorry... Laughing... I meant my own garage where I keep all my tools and equipment and indoors. But yes, garage usually implies the mechanics shop.

Will be doing g the electronic points as first order of business. Looking forward to posting a smiling face on all this!

 

I would try and get it running before you change the ignition, otherwise you could be chasing more than one problem.

It MAY solve the issue, but if it doesn't you could be chasing your tail, get it running with new points etc. and or sort fuel / timing first then change the ignition over.

If you have new contacts and a new condenser to hand, with an already new coil this should take less than an hour to either fix, or to then diagnose that it is timing or fuel.

I think you are missing or overlooking something fundamental.

Fit new contacts and condenser and check, if it's still not starting check static timing, if that is OK, try some quick start, if that doesn't work, then you have to check the valve timing (if it fires on Quick Start then it's carbs), if valve timing OK, check compression, because at that point you must have a bigger problem on your hands to be quite honest.

The leaking fuel will have nothing to do with the oil in the pots, with no oil it should still fire, (it may not run well or for long) until the plugs get soaked and wet that is then it's flooded, but it shouldn't cause any leakage.

 

A perfect summary! That's where my head is at. I will do as you mention. The only difference being electronic points instead of contacts and condenser. Do you feel I should do the contacts and condenser instead?

Thanks.

 

I would put standard points in first to get it running/diagnose and when you have it running then go to the electronic points.

I have a feeling that it may not be simply spark, at least with standard points, you can physically see them open and close, so with a new condenser contacts and coil you know for sure that all components are working, some people have trouble fitting/setting electronic points, if the engine is running and you change the points and it's dead, you know exactly what you are looking for whereas if it's dead to start with you may have introduced another problem. So start with the basics first.

 

Good “point”.

Question... am I going to need to get a positive-ground specific set due to the condenser? I did for the electronic kit.

Any links to full kits?

Or part numbers to search? Most search results point to UK which is still more time... I can have anything in the US within 2 days (live on US border).

 

No just regular ones are fine.

Just go on SNG under Electrical and click on the items in the pictures.

Jon

 

I’ll need a bit more help. Went to SNG, looked at the 25D6 parts listing... no contacts. Does it use the same contacts as the 22D6?

Also exactly which parts should I get (have not opened yet, but there usual suspects for such things)... contacts, rotor, condenser, anything else?

 

Lucas 22D6, 25D6 Points Set & Condensor with Powermax Red Rotor Lucas 22D6 & 25D6 Points Set & Condensor with Powermax Red Rotor [PO3 & R4] - £7.45 : Electronic Ignition, Home of the Powerspark electronic ignition and electronic distributor
Try these guys.

 

You don't have to order points from the UK, Lucas used those points in many other applications.

More Information for STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS LU1617P

https://www.google.ca/search?q=stand...u1617p&ie=&oe=

Here are the part numbers from Rock Auto from a 69 XKE.
You can use the part numbers at your local auto parts store.

1969 JAGUAR XKE 4.2L L6 Ignition Parts | RockAuto

They never have a listing for my Jag, so I order them for a Mini.
Common as dirt.

Here in Canada go to Lordco, they will have a listing for the Standard Motor Products part numbers.
Or if not Lordco, any chain or local auto parts store in your area.