then according to Skilleter's book it must have been completed after June 1960. Being the first 3.8 it must have gone thru extensive evaluations before being released? By the time it got to the finishing line the nacelles were already plastic. Just my theory.

 

The car was built in or before august 1959 and road registered in Feb 1960, the experimental department records for the car show that it was used for engine testing until 1961.

 

just what I thought: extensive evaluations. So it obviously went thru changes in parts. Might have been born with the aluminium switch cover and then sometime during its life a plastic cover was fitted. Maybe someone stole the aluminium covers and fitted plastic ones.Who would know the difference? both are black.

 

Bring it over or post it and you can use mine, or I'll do it for you mate

 

Possibly but the switch cover on the car is clearly designed for a car with a right hand indicator as the hole/slot for the automatic column change on the car is much larger and on the left hand side.

From this I can only deduce that the plastic cover was originally intended for a column in the early configuration, it is possible that its not the original one for the car but as all of the development records for the car relate to work on the engine only it would of been odd (but not beyond the realms of possibility) for them to change this component.

I suspect that what you have is either a prototype part, a part made by apprentices of possibly a part made locally for a CKD car. Whatever it is its very rare and I would be reluctant to modify it to fit your car if it won't bolt straight on.

 

They're not expensive, just Google "Bench Top Buffing Wheel"

 

Tilley Jon you must be a mind reader!

Simpson, yes what I have is from an early 1959 MK2 with the turn signals switch cutout on the right side and the overdrive switch cutout on the left side, regardless of whether the car was RHD or LHD. There is a very clear part number punched inside the top half that reads K88. The bottom half has a blurred KR and a ENG stamped inside it. I have heard of a "Metal Kraft England" in the past.

 

Jeff I am going to check at Harbor Freight tomorrow.

 

here's where I have it as of today. Starting to look nice!

does anybody else see a resemblance with Darth Vader's helmet?

 

It would look really smart anodized black.

Do the cut outs match Homer's Nachelle's in size ?

https://www.gracesguide.co.uk/Birmin...um_Castings_Co possible contender for the manufacturer ?

They obviously did work for Jaguar from the above info, the stamped rather than cast markings may also indicate prototype, as they would usually be cast in if it was a long run, does anyone know who cast the heads, oil filter body etc. as they would probably be the same ?
They also had a central experiment and development section called Birmidal Developements Ltd in 1955 which would also fit the timeline nicely.

I can't find much on the history of Metal Kraft in so far as whether they did castings or when the company was formed

 

TilleyJon I have not seen Simpson's so I do not know. Apparently it does at least in the sense that the Turn Signals switch cutout is on the right.

 

Really more of a question for Homer as he could at least compare your pictures with what he has, I have no idea what the cut outs would look like on his either.

 

You also could take it to a place were they do rechroming, it would not be a big deal for them to polish it up for you.
However a buffing wheel does come in handy for many other things.
What would take hours by hand, would get done in a number of minutes.

One could take days trying to get a mirror shine on aluminum and never get the results from a proper buffing wheel with the right compound.

 

Jose not sure how much power wheel buffing you have done--BUT--to do a great job the part will have to get hot. that is pretty thin so like buffing a carb body go easy. Plus looking at that part i see the buffing wheel trying to grab it and throw it across the room--yard! Go slow and it will look like a mirror. Suggest you start with the lower half--it is more "buffable;. good luck!

 

here are fresh pictures taken today to show how the turn signals and overdrive lights assembly fits perfectly into the aluminium nacelle. NOTE: cannot post images through my phone, there is no GO ADVANCED button. Will post 5 images later today.

No I have never done power buffing and I do not want to damage it by the buffer doing a kickback and hitting me in the face. But I do need a buffer for other jobs. This job is something else being such a rare part.

 

It's not so difficult Jose, the buffing wheel always goes down and away as it rotates, so very little chance of hitting you in the face. It could hit the floor, so try to avoid edges pointing up in the air when in contact with the wheel as that's when they grab, always polish with any edges down, if you have two edges start in the middle and work up toward one edge, and then turn the piece over and work toward the other edge.

The main trick to buffing easily is prep, if you sand up to 600 grit and remove all previous scratch marks, the buffing is fairly easy.

Get the most powerful bench polisher you can afford, one that takes an 8" wheel is best, but also get a range of pads of different types and sizes, the smaller the pad the slower the outside edge speed will be, so a 4" pad is a good starting point for beginning.

You will soon get used to it, trial it out on something with no ridges or edges to start, the more pressure you use the more heat you will get, but you don't have to actually get it hot for it to work, it will get hot if you work it hard or for longer periods, but heat is a bi-product rather than a necessity. If the Aluminium gets too hot you will actually get very small ripples which are then a swine to get out, and thin objects can distort, but you are not likely to distort the Nachelle unless you have asbestos gloves on !

Get buffing something as a trial and see how you go.

Or forgot to say, although they are bench polishers, you need the wheel/s to overhang a bench as you need plenty of room under the wheel, if you have the wheel over a bench, you will find you have to hold some pieces at awkward angles which increases the chances of grabbing, and then the bench is under you hand which can smart, so have free space under the wheel, if you are getting a double ended polisher, get a proper stand for it, and bolt it to the floor (yes it will move when you polish larger parts and get stuck in or if the wheel does grab) You will get used to it grabbing, it's not awful and you will learn what to avoid, sometimes it's difficult to avoid when trying to get in a corner somewhere. If you try polishing a piece of pipe, you will soon learn how it grabs, it won't throw it out of your hands, there are no sharp edges so it's not too brutal, and it's a good way to practice for those shaped parts.

Will await the pictures.

 

Thank you TilleyJon for the tips. And to everyone else too for your support with this 59 years old antique part.

Here's the pictures showing more details. The parts fit better than with the plastic / Bakelite pieces, probably because aluminium doesn't deform with age?

 

one more for the road! with lights on.

 

Looks cool Jose.

 

Mine has the same cutout on the right for the indicators but the cutout on the left is different because mines automatic and the lever for the selector has more travel.