It's many many years since I owned first a MKII 2.4 & then a 3.8.
I was never gentle with them either, tore the Panhard rod off the rear axle on my 2.4. Much younger then of course.

What I always wanted was a set of "chromed wires".
I then discovered that such chroming introduces "hydrogen embrittlement" & puts the strength integrity of such wheels in question.

I never resolved this so I ask now can anyone advise how Jag overcame this problem. I gather that racing with chromed wire was forbidden at all the car clubs & tracks.

Thanks

 

You would need to check the rules for the various governing bodies and I bet you will find both situations. Jaguar certainly did offer racing wire wheels and they were never chrome. As to your Panhard Rod Peter Lindner has special ones made to stop the "snap" but I do not remember what they were made of. I was fortunate to buy two left overs from his shop decades ago and of course the one I installed is there so I have a spare which insures I will never need a new one!

 

Modern wire wheels makers are now using stainless steel spokes. However there is no doubt even with stainless steel stopping rust they remain a PITA to clean !

This well-established UK company offer a choice of three types.

MWS

 

Yes they're a pain to clean. But they look so cool, it's worth the effort IMO

 

Hydrogen embrittlement is often caused when plating steel. However, it is easily remedied by gentle heating very soon after plating. As a youth, working in a metallurgical goods receiving laboratory, I tested all batches of incoming plated fasteners for HE!

 

[QUOTE=Fraser Mitchell;1648317]Modern wire wheels makers are now using stainless steel spokes. However there is no doubt even with stainless steel stopping rust they remain a PITA to clean !

QUOTE]

This is correct - there is no problem with tubeless wire wheels these days. I run Dunlop wheels on my 66 Mk 2 - they look fabulous, they do not leak air and they do not rust. But cleaning them? Ugh.

 

My 1966 Mk 2 in its original Pale Primrose colour, with chrome wire wheels.

 

My 1965 3.8 'S' in its original Plum Red color, with chrome wire wheels.

 

I've been told that a substantial part of the costs of converting to Wires is changing the hubs from a stud pattern attachment method to a central spinner. Just what is required to do this conversion, & what does it cost?

 

You have to replace the bolt-on type hubs with the splined type to take the "knock-on/off" wire wheels. However it is possible to buy bolt on wire wheels that just bolt on in place of the disc wheels, but due to the need to ensure the spokes don't get in the way of access to the wheel nuts, they may not look as good as the traditional type. The website I posted does sell these as well as the traditional ones.

There is no doubt converting to the knock-on type wheels is expensive as you need the four hubs plus the four wheels. Not cheap !!

 

not worth it, the wires are a total pain to clean and polish, but boy they sure look good and classic!

 

The hubs are about £100 each, then you will need some front wheel bearings and oil seals, (as you wouldn't use the old ones normally) , the bolts and locking nuts, and you may need to shim the brake calipers to suit new hubs.

It's a fairly straight forward job, just costs about £500 for the parts if you do it all yourself.

 

Actually, you'll need five wires, as I found out when I checked my trunk and realised the spare had suddenly been rendered totally useless!

 

Addendum: As I purchased wider Dunlop triple-laced wheels, I settled for std. wire wheel to use as a spare, painted instead of chrome, which saved a few shekels, thus pleasing the Chancellor of the Exchequer (wife). And it also fits into the wheel well OK.

 

in the USA they are called "Bean Counters".

 

I call her the Ex !!!!!

 

I really wanted wire wheels.....then I thought about the cost of replacing the hubs, assuming of course I could get the rear hubs off. Then I figured I'd just use the bolt-on style, they are pretty good after all - but then I remembered how horrid wires are to clean, and they're not without some upkeep requirements as well. Suddenly, good old steelies with trim rings and cap, seems quite sufficient ;-)

 

Yes. & it does give us the opportunity to shine up the hubcaps, which are much less tiresome than Wires, it must be said.

 

I note the advice on hydrogen embrittlement & the availability today of stainless "wires".
I had I confess forgotten the conversion cost for those cars not originally fitted with the special hubs.
But early 60's Mk II s are special & regardless of the cleaning chores the impact on appearance is stunning.
Seriously if you have managed to acquire a Mk II in showroom condition, why not spend the extra on hubs & wires & get the paid help to do the cleaning.
I'm unsure about the value of such specimens but I have seen owners go to exceptional trouble to fit power steering & aircon, neither is a low cost undertaking.
BTW does anyone think the MK II "s" type of the late 60's is an improvement in overall appearance?

 

the S type is not a MK-2, it is the better car between the MK-II and the S type, because of some improvements like Independent Rear Suspension, twin exaust system, twin fuel tanks, roomier interior, more wood at the dash, larger auxiliary lamp buckets, more elegant front and rear bumpers, but it had a styling that not many people liked, i.e., if the MK-2 rear third looks almost like a Volkswagen Beetle, the S type rear third looks almost like a "baby Bentley".