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Tape will work, but the expanding go improves the 0 to 60 time and makes it much more useful in water too so I would surely use it, put a propeller on the diff and your good to go, don’t forget to tape the floor pan too !
I've had a letter from the DVLA asking for more information about the application for the V5C, i've called them up and it seems that the issue is that the chassis number I have given them is not the same as there records. I gave it them again over the phone and they said it still didn't match so its not as if I have written it down wrong.
I had a look on a few internet sites and eventually found a way of getting the vin recorded on the electronic DVLA information from the registration and found that the record they have has the last digit as a 6 where as it should be a 5.
I've written back to them with the correct information and a photo of the plate, has anyone had this before and if so what was the outcome?
I've also written to the JDHT to check that the car details on the rest of the plate and the colour tie up with the number ending in 5 not 6 just in case the plate has been changed (unlikely).
I have a look at the slam panel but where the number is stamped on my other MK2 its loosely engraved and very hard to read but you can make out a 5 in it, its the most clear of the characters.
I assume that when they transfered it from the paper log book they incorrectly did this, i've seen lots of cars in the past where 5 and S have got mixed up but not 5 and 6.
You may be too far down the line now, but it may be easier to get the V5 with the wrong chassis number and then get the V5 corrected, that may sound odd, but there is a mechanism in place to change the chassis number that is incorrect on a V5, it may be one of those stupid occasions where you find it difficult to get a V5 issued correctly (as they have no record of the correct vehicle ever existing) and easier to get it changed once you have the V5 in your name.
A change of Chassis number generally requires an inspection .
Contact Keith Vincent at JEC he will advise best, he does DVLA/Vehicle Registration help for the club, I assume you are a member ?
You may be too far down the line now, but it may be easier to get the V5 with the wrong chassis number and then get the V5 corrected, that may sound odd, but there is a mechanism in place to change the chassis number that is incorrect on a V5, it may be one of those stupid occasions where you find it difficult to get a V5 issued correctly (as they have no record of the correct vehicle ever existing) and easier to get it changed once you have the V5 in your name.
A change of Chassis number generally requires an inspection .
Contact Keith Vincent at JEC he will advise best, he does DVLA/Vehicle Registration help for the club, I assume you are a member ?
I will PM you his contact details
Thanks Jon, I will see what the DVLA say as I have now provided them with a photo of the Chassis Number so hard to go back and give them the wrong/right one that they have.
Now that the DVLA don't have local offices anymore how do you get a vehicle inspected if required, is it all done by clubs now?
I went to the Jaguar Spares Day at Stoneleigh Park today and picked up a few new panels, in keeping with my economy drive I bought:
O/S front foot well
Rear spring hanger boxes both sides outer
Rear spring hanger boxes both sides inner
Front cross member support panels (the ones at 45 degrees back to the chassis rails).
Panel under rear seat O/S
O/S front door skin.
Second hand front chassis legs both sides to just behind the front subframe rear mounting (not quite long enough for what I wanted but I'm going to try and make a piece up to complete the rail and at £15 for both it seemed worth a go!.
Total cost including entry fee (£20 for the two of us) and two bacon rolls (£10) was £260 which I reckon was a bit of a bargain.
I've started to remove the old chassis rails, here are some pictures of the carnage.
Thanks Jon, I will see what the DVLA say as I have now provided them with a photo of the Chassis Number so hard to go back and give them the wrong/right one that they have.
Now that the DVLA don't have local offices anymore how do you get a vehicle inspected if required, is it all done by clubs now?
I think you have to go to DVSA nowadays you can find centres here https://www.google.com/maps/d/view?m...458984332&z=11 , there is one near Kiddeminster which should be the closest to you. it's a rpyal pain, getting as bad a the US !
Over the years I have done a lot worse, I used to restore minis and some them you were only keeping the top half, you literaly cut out the bottom 12 inches. Then there was the mini I shortened by 12" when I was 21. Happy days!
I had a 1275 GT mini that the door gaps would open up when you accelerated, scrapped it before the engine and front wings decided to take off up the road ahead of me and the rest of the car !!!
Seems we've all had those. I had a '61 ford lost the gas tank twice, drug it by the rubber hose. Got out, cut the hose, threw the tank in the boot, drove it a block and parked it. Called mom and told her to bring the tire chains, we had another tow.
'60 Ohio Bell Rambler American would get the violent shakes at random. I had two choices - gas it and hope o could put run them, or slow down, then it would either quit, or I had to try to out run them again. I was told it was the trunion suspension. I never wanted to look. Didn't have the money or desire to know.
I've been playing with the rear axle trying to remove the hub as I had major problems doing this on the last one.
I was lucky enough to buy a puller at the Jaguar spares day at Stoneleight last week, the guy I bought it off said he made it but it looks very well made. I fitted it last week and have been slowly tightening it up all week and hitting it with a hammer, tonight whilst doing something else there was an almighty bang and it released.
The problem I now have is that the puller has a tapered end that matches the end of the halfshaft which seems to have slightly spread the end of the shaft, this has meant that the nut has been damaged during removal and the thread is damaged.
Firstly does anyone know what the thread is so I can get a die to rethread it and secondly any idea how to stop it happening when I do the other side?
If the axle has the same thread as mine, it's a 7/8th national fine thread (14 threads per inch)
I used an OTC brand hub puller, but it didn't fit the end of the axle very well so I made a tool to protect the threads.
See second link.
There was a some-what heated discussion at the JCNA about the use if after-market pullers with a George Camp, if that's the same member.
If it is, he's here too sometimes.
You beat me to it Jeff, I forgot your pneumatic fitting adapter, great solution for the problem, the other solution is using a ball bearing, but a little more fiddly and you must get the correct size to avoid spreading the end of the halfshaft , and also machine a recess in the end of the puller for the ball to sit in.
Homer, I think I may have a die for this, you can borrow it if you need to, I can post it to you and you can send it back when your done, I will have to make sure I can lay me hands on it before I promise.
You beat me to it Jeff, I forgot your pneumatic fitting adapter, great solution for the problem, the other solution is using a ball bearing, but a little more fiddly and you must get the correct size to avoid spreading the end of the halfshaft , and also machine a recess in the end of the puller for the ball to sit in.
Homer, I think I may have a die for this, you can borrow it if you need to, I can post it to you and you can send it back when your done, I will have to make sure I can lay me hands on it before I promise.
Thanks for the offer, I've ordered one as it will be useful to have in future.
09-23-2018, 04:54 AM
