Jaguar Mk2 340 Restoration to date
#321
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Llandudno, Cape Town, South Africa
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#322
#323
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Llandudno, Cape Town, South Africa
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#325
Join Date: Jul 2012
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#326
#327
I had little time recently, so decided to get a professional windscreen installer to fit the screens, with rubbers from a kit bought from D Manners, they had real problems with the front screen, and gave up on the rear completely as the rubbers did not fit !
Seals from Kit
Seals from kitI got new seals from COH Baines and did these myself, rear screen took 10 minutes to get the seal in, the front took 30 mins, these seals are formed with the corners moulded and you can see the difference, they fit like a dream, just waiting for the insert strip tool to arrive.
New seal
New seal
The two seals side by side
I have spoken to D Manners and they say they do a better seal with pre-formed corners but they don't come in the kit, I have said that they should change that as the seals in the kit are not fit for purpose, so buyer beware, if you are looking for new screen seals make sure they are pre-formed, this does not apply to the rear screen as the corners are not as tight, but the lip that goes over the body was very short on the kit seal, but fitted well on the new seal.
Seals from Kit
Seals from kit
New seal
New seal
The two seals side by side
I have spoken to D Manners and they say they do a better seal with pre-formed corners but they don't come in the kit, I have said that they should change that as the seals in the kit are not fit for purpose, so buyer beware, if you are looking for new screen seals make sure they are pre-formed, this does not apply to the rear screen as the corners are not as tight, but the lip that goes over the body was very short on the kit seal, but fitted well on the new seal.
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lickahotskillet (10-23-2018)
#330
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Got my rubbers from Barratts after a previous mess up with a full kit. I have a heated rear screen which needs the rubber to accommodate the thicker glass & wiring. Some rubbers pucker at the front bottom corners like yours. Some pull back from the lower front corners ~ too small. Once you have the right front rubber it will initially appear too large but is correct. Trick is to seat bottom corners first & assure no pull back. On the S Type gluing the chrome trim in place on the rear screen is an evil job.
Last edited by Glyn M Ruck; 10-06-2018 at 03:20 AM.
#331
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TilleyJon (10-06-2018)
#332
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Another Tip. Jaguar recommends Bostik 1251 to glue down chrome trim ~ especially on the backlight where the strip goes into a groove on the glass side but caps over the rubber on the body side. Bostik 1251 has gone the way of the Dodo.
Loctite 480 is the only current product I could find that remains semi pliable but sticks down the chrome trim properly. Contact adhesives & the like don't work
Loctite 480 is the only current product I could find that remains semi pliable but sticks down the chrome trim properly. Contact adhesives & the like don't work
Last edited by Glyn M Ruck; 10-06-2018 at 05:31 AM.
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lickahotskillet (10-23-2018)
#333
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lickahotskillet (10-23-2018)
#334
I will pass these comments on to D Manners, they have already passed it it to aftersales, someone is obviously producing inferior seals and SNG and Manners must be buying them in the kit form as the price is probably good for them.
I have yet to fit the door seals, so any input as to what to look for before I fit them would be appreciated, if they are likely to be a poor fit I will bomb the lot back and get a full set from COH Baines, as they do seem to have a reputation for producing the best fitting seals.
Thanks for comment Lin, the upholstery is taking longer than I thought, got a kit from BAS who were great, really really good service and great guys too. They are willing to help with any issues along the way. Highly recommend them.
Glyn, pretty good summary for anyone looking to change seals, if they don't sit correctly, send them back is the best advice ! Found E6000 adhesive for the seals, I will look at the Loctite and see how that compares before I bite the bullet and stick them in.
Still to seal the screens with Butyl sealant before I fit the chrome
I have yet to fit the door seals, so any input as to what to look for before I fit them would be appreciated, if they are likely to be a poor fit I will bomb the lot back and get a full set from COH Baines, as they do seem to have a reputation for producing the best fitting seals.
Thanks for comment Lin, the upholstery is taking longer than I thought, got a kit from BAS who were great, really really good service and great guys too. They are willing to help with any issues along the way. Highly recommend them.
Glyn, pretty good summary for anyone looking to change seals, if they don't sit correctly, send them back is the best advice ! Found E6000 adhesive for the seals, I will look at the Loctite and see how that compares before I bite the bullet and stick them in.
Still to seal the screens with Butyl sealant before I fit the chrome
#335
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My original Rubber kit was bought from Manners by my first & fired restorer ~ just checked the invoice. Buying individually from Barratt's got me the right back & front. Tossed out multiple seals Grrr! 1 X back (our fault ~ a certain restorer did not order for heated screen). 2 X front. (crap)
The door seals from the Manners' kit fitted perfectly. They had been stored powdered and out of UV for a few years. IMHO they show some signs of perishing. Glued corners etc. with cyanoacrylate ~ to body with contact. The front quarterlight seals had cracked before fitting (stretch them slightly to check). Pleased I noticed. Tossed & replaced them before closing up the doors. You need door access to change them due to the spindle. No one wants to reopen sealed up doors.
If there is a next time or I have to replace existing I will buy South African rubbers. We make all for Mk2 here. IMHO they are better suited to our UV conditions.
BTW ~ BAS does do a very good job. My only complaint is that the material they supply for the headlining, of an S Type at least, is completely wrong (although it looks nice). The correct headlining is Union Cloth (lambswool) in whatever correct colour.
The Moquette by any supplier needs to be treated with bug spray. They love eating the pile.
The door seals from the Manners' kit fitted perfectly. They had been stored powdered and out of UV for a few years. IMHO they show some signs of perishing. Glued corners etc. with cyanoacrylate ~ to body with contact. The front quarterlight seals had cracked before fitting (stretch them slightly to check). Pleased I noticed. Tossed & replaced them before closing up the doors. You need door access to change them due to the spindle. No one wants to reopen sealed up doors.
If there is a next time or I have to replace existing I will buy South African rubbers. We make all for Mk2 here. IMHO they are better suited to our UV conditions.
BTW ~ BAS does do a very good job. My only complaint is that the material they supply for the headlining, of an S Type at least, is completely wrong (although it looks nice). The correct headlining is Union Cloth (lambswool) in whatever correct colour.
The Moquette by any supplier needs to be treated with bug spray. They love eating the pile.
Last edited by Glyn M Ruck; 10-06-2018 at 02:09 PM.
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TilleyJon (10-06-2018)
#336
I got the rubber kit from SNG Barratt. Front seal didn’t fit so well, and the second I ordered from them fit much better around the lower corners. I had fairly good luck using 3M super weathetstriping adhesive. Not crazy about the chrome fit, but best I can do.
The door rubbers fit just fine. No problems at all.
The door rubbers fit just fine. No problems at all.
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TilleyJon (10-06-2018)
#338
Join Date: Jul 2012
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I think the moral of the story is that there is a lot of junk rubber out there. Both ill fitting & quality wise. I've just noticed that my brand new radiator mounting rubbers (radiator mounting bushes) have cracked/split. Under 6 months old & the tropical radiator is a tight fit & cramp to remove ~ fitted it & shroud last!. The darn car is not even registered yet. Maybe COH Baines is the answer or local SA.
"Caveat Emptor"
"Caveat Emptor"
Last edited by Glyn M Ruck; 10-08-2018 at 08:20 AM.
#339
Just not had much time to work on the car recently, but did decide to take a look at the clock, purchased a solid state solenoid driver to replace the pin and contact on the switch from https://www.clocks4classics.com/, and with some great assistance from Chris a watch repairer who is the chap behind https://cjnwatch.co.uk/wp/smiths-car-clock/ where I found this information and then emailed him for extra advice, he is an E-type owner and car buff, so was very happy to offer advice.
I also had another clock so I decided to try and get that going in it's existing original configuration, attached are 2 videos one is the converted clock and the other is the "as original" with the pin and contact working as it should. I converted this to negative earth and cleaned and oiled it as Chris's advice and both clocks are working, so I thought I would post the video's as it is not that common to see these clocks in full working order !!!
The converted clock is keeping time well within a minute over a week so I am happy with that, I have not time tested the original as yet, I have still to fit a diode in that clock to stop the back emf from the coil which is what fouls up and damages the pins in these Smith's pin clocks.
I also had another clock so I decided to try and get that going in it's existing original configuration, attached are 2 videos one is the converted clock and the other is the "as original" with the pin and contact working as it should. I converted this to negative earth and cleaned and oiled it as Chris's advice and both clocks are working, so I thought I would post the video's as it is not that common to see these clocks in full working order !!!
The converted clock is keeping time well within a minute over a week so I am happy with that, I have not time tested the original as yet, I have still to fit a diode in that clock to stop the back emf from the coil which is what fouls up and damages the pins in these Smith's pin clocks.
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#340