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I could use a little input on whether or not to go ahead with buying this car.
1966 3.8 S
Condition:
no rust
refrigerator magnet revealed little or no bondo (stuck to door bottoms an roll panels)
rubber kit, carpet kit and leather seat kit in with deal
engine looks like a fresh rebuild, free, but is a non-runner
windscreen seals are toast need replacing
wood is fair
BW auto is unknown condition
tires good
stored for ?
paint has some issues with peeling and chips (fixable)
right tank out of commission
air filter box in trunk
everything in pics that's missing is in the car somewhere
no spark
AC condition is unknown
$5k
If the vehicle is being shipped out of California, you won't need to worry about the expired registration, otherwise, you should check with the California DMV to determine how much money is needed to bring the registration current.
The car looks good based on the photos, and if there's no rust to deal with, the price seems fair. Of course, it's always best to buy a vehicle that's running so you can see what work is needed.
Look for oil leaks around the rear inboard disc brakes.
A big job to fix that.
Take you magnet again and check front fenders, and around all front lights.
Car looks like it would make a good rolling restoration.
Do a compression test if you can.
Non-runners are usually caused by guys who don't know how to deal with old fashioned points and SU carbs.
Fuel pump(s) are probably not working either.
Jeff is on the money, follow what he says and you should be on a good one, I would question why it is not running and seems to have a fresh rebuild, hopefully it is only a timing / fuel issue, so definitely check compression.
If compression is down on all cylinders it could probably be valve timing, but then you would want to know who couldn't set the valve timing if they have rebuilt the engine so be very cautious !
It doesn't look bad at all, but I would bargain on that one, as the engine is not running. It could be a money pit or quite simple to fix but do you want to pay $5000 to find out ?
it is missing the front and rear windshields chrome.
looks to be air conditioned, that is a plus.
has the rare factory Fog Rangers fog lamps, that is a plus. Rare because in the S type they were optional in the USA, and they are larger than the MK-2's Fog Rangers, The S type Fog Rangers are 5.25" in diameter, the MK-2 Fog Rangers are 4.25" in diameter.
looks like it has an original-style exhaust system, if not the original. At least the rear tips are the original style.
If the engine didn’t run after the rebuild (only guessing hear) check that the cams have been assembled on the correct side of the head, brother had a head done years ago and this is what the guy did. Couldn’t work out why it was sucking in through the exhaust and blowing out the carbs if I recall.
If the engine didn’t run after the rebuild (only guessing hear) check that the cams have been assembled on the correct side of the head, brother had a head done years ago and this is what the guy did. Couldn’t work out why it was sucking in through the exhaust and blowing out the carbs if I recall.
A good thing to consider, but if the rev. generator is mounted, then the cams are correct.
The exhaust cam doesn't have the drive slot for the counter.
If you had the cams "out", is the Jag an interference or non-interference engine?
I rebuilt mine more then 15/20 years ago and I can't remember.
I do remember carefully turning the engine over by hand with no plugs in it, just to be sure.
Even with that, it's still pretty hard to get them out with the cam positioning tool.
Both lobes at the front pointing away from each other if memory serves.
With number one of the compression stroke.
Number 6 would be at TDC as well, so maybe the distributor is 180 out ???
I am pretty sure they are interference, but I didn't actually physically check.
I don't know if you can set them 180 deg out, (actually 120 deg) I'd have to think about that one, it was just that Robman said his brother had his engine blowing out the carbs and sucking in the exhaust, I know you can't fit the rev counter, but I'm not sure it is actually possible to put the cams in the wrong sides ! But if there was "blowing" out the carbs, I would suggest they didn't use the timing gauge !!!!!!!
Reading Robman's post again, his brother had the head done, did the person that did the head refit it to the car, and if they did why did they give it back without it running !!
The distributor setting would not affect the exhaust/inlet timings at all.
If you had the cams "out", is the Jag an interference or non-interference engine?
I rebuilt mine more then 15/20 years ago and I can't remember.
I do remember carefully turning the engine over by hand with no plugs in it, just to be sure.
Even with that, it's still pretty hard to get them out with the cam positioning tool.
Both lobes at the front pointing away from each other if memory serves.
With number one of the compression stroke.
Number 6 would be at TDC as well, so maybe the distributor is 180 out ???
Definitely interference, just in the process of rebuilding a 3.4 head that lost its timing, all 6 inlets bent.
A good thing to consider, but if the rev. generator is mounted, then the cams are correct.
The exhaust cam doesn't have the drive slot for the counter.
Good point slightly overlooked in my post brothers car was XJ6
Just small indentations tried to upload a photo but not able at at the moment, strange because I’ve managed it before
Blimey, that was lucky !
If you are attaching, try uploading just one picture first, then another, all from the same "manage attachments" window, seems to work for me if I am having trouble uploading.
11-30-2017, 08:16 AM
Pulling the trigger on a 3.8 S
brothers car was XJ6
