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I see that my engine is fitted with C19646, the uprated rear rubber crankshaft oil seal housing.
Was this ever fitted as standard or does it mean that this has been retrofitted to the engine sometime in its past history?
Chris I would say it has been retro fitted as the original crank seal was rope which you had to soak in oil for a couple of days before fitting if I am not mistaken.
I think the OE rear crankshaft oil seal was always asbestos rope on Mk2/S type/420 XK engines. Certainly, I can't find mention of rubber in my Mk2 parts book or my series 3 XJ repair manual. It's possible that later engines, DS420 or military spec XKs might have received an update. Even the V12 still used rope into the late 1980s. There's always been a lot of discussion on what's the best seal for the XK. It would be interesting to hear your experience.
I've made a mistake here..you're right the part number C19649 doesn't match the uprated seal.
I searched for the part number C19649, which is stamped on the rear seal retainer, on the SNG website and up popped the rubber oil seal conversion... but that has a different part number. I think mine is the original rope seal type.
This is what I have;
OK, you've got the rope seal, are you wanting to replace it ? Engine is obviously out of the car. To replace the old seal or install the new lip-type seal, the crankshaft has to come out. I have done a rope seal in the early 90s, but not the lip type. At one time, to replace with a lip-type seal, you had to machine off the scroll on the crankshaft where the rope seal sits. If it were me doing the job now, I'd put the lip-type seal on, because getting the rope seal right is a real PITA.
I don't know whether I will go for an uprated seal at this stage.
I'm disassembling the engine and will discuss with this my Jag guy who is going to look at the engine in general to decide exactly what needs to be done and what doesn't..
I have also read that some restorers prefer to stay with the original rope seal, and that the uprated seal can also have problems.
I will have to look at the economics of all potential upgrades as I don't have an unlimited budget for this project.
The latest seals are not in two parts/split. They stretch over the flywheel flange on the crank & reform themselves to size. The housing compresses them. The seal appears to be just slightly oversized until installation of the bottom cap which is part of the compression mechanism in place of a garter spring.
Acetic acid curing RTV sealer should never be used. It promotes rusting. Use Yamabond. Vastly superior.
You have to be ultra careful that you don't pinch the seal at the upper/lower joint interface.
The two part lip seal can be a disaster. A friend has to park his XK140 fixed head facing downhill or oil drips out of the rear split seal when parking on hills.
I stuck to the original properly done. Touch wood zero leaks.
Last edited by Glyn M Ruck; Mar 20, 2021 at 03:06 PM.
Since Rob Beere's website is not the easiest in the world, the link below to the E-type forum may be helpful: https://forum.etypeuk.com/viewtopic.php?t=16408
This shouldn't be confused with a couple of other conversions that he does that are even (well a lot) more expensive.
When rebuilding your engine give some thought to this conversion. How many people do you know who've had trouble with the rear crankshaft "rope seal" leaking? Rectifying a leaking rope involves removing the crank, which in turn involves removing the engine! Just consider how the labour bill for this would have paid for our conversion which replaces the seal with a modern one-piece item, as found on any modern car. Other cheaper designs have tried to use a two piece seal, as found on nothing this century!
This conversion is available for all 6 cylinder XK engines.
Kit includes: modified, ground (as ness) and balanced crankshaft (exchange), new flywheel, modified rear seal housing (exchange).
Price: £795.00 inc balanced not ground (customer's rope seal housing required)
Price: £1050.00 inc ground & balanced (customer's rope seal housing required)
As you say Peter you can now buy an SKF Viton "flex-seal" from Rob Beere in Coventry that will fit as a direct replacement for the rope-seal, your crank will still need grinding to either 75mm or 3" in the scroll/seal area, but that's about it.
This for approx £180 + VAT without all the paraphernalia above.
I understand others have now copied but let's give Beere the kudos & thanks SKF.
Last edited by Glyn M Ruck; Mar 20, 2021 at 06:54 PM.
Rear Crankshaft Oil Seal
