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Rear vent catches not holding
As my car is newly screwed together & the rubbers are new, the rear doors require to be closed more firmly than typical for a Jag. The rear vent catches spring open slightly when closing the doors & don't keep the vent frames tight against their similarly new rubbers.
When we dismantled the catches for re-chroming we forgot to photograph. IIRC we have a wavy washer & plain washers on the pivot. We obviously do not have enough tension/friction at the pivot. What is the correct assembly of the pivot mechanism? https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...2c10faa39b.jpg Does one use a wavy washer & plain washers to create tension or does one use a Thackery washer? Wavy washer: https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...1c5f0adee5.png Thackery washer https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...1794184748.png Photo of mechanism from the internet" https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...2092435876.jpg Am I missing something? What is correct? Advice on creating sufficient tension at the lever pivot point gratefully accepted. |
looking at my spare, what creates the tension is a small thackery (spring) washer, a smaller flat washer, and a larger flat washer but not at the pivot, instead at the push-pull handle.
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...ed2b2ee39b.jpg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...cf4603bb5e.jpg |
Thanks Jose ~ Now to work out what size they are & get some new Thackery washers. I grew up in the metricated era & always have trouble with imperial sizes.
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I had trouble finding a socket to remove the bolt under the handle, finally found a 11/32" socket that fits well, but I think it is a 9mm head since the 8mm is too small for it and the 10mm too big.
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fiber washer
try a new fiber washer at the slide, along with aluminum or brass on either side of the pivot. more friction! worked for me. that fiber washer fits between slide and lever i think, not on top of slide. or maybe there's two thinner ones. damn, that wood is pretty.
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Originally Posted by jagstuart
(Post 2005937)
try a new fiber washer at the slide, along with aluminum or brass on either side of the pivot. more friction! worked for me. that fiber washer fits between slide and lever i think, not on top of slide. or maybe there's two thinner ones. damn, that wood is pretty.
EDIT ~ Cancel ~ I have worked out what you mean ~ Thanks! BTW ~ is this a common problem? |
Originally Posted by Jose
(Post 2005912)
I had trouble finding a socket to remove the bolt under the handle, finally found a 11/32" socket that fits well, but I think it is a 9mm head since the 8mm is too small for it and the 10mm too big.
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both front and rear ventilators stay closed fine in my car and I have not adjusted them or added anything. I will look carefully in the next few days to see what is there at the pivots.
you could apply heat to the rubbers to "form" them since they are new and when hot enough, close and clamp the windows for a few days so the rubber reshapes and conforms to the frame. Also I have a bag of black fibre washers but I think they are a little bigger than the adjuster thumb screw. However I have a aircraft surplus store that has them in different sizes. I will be going there soon to get chromed thumb knobs for the radio brackets. |
My lever pivots are definitely looser than they should be IMHO. The rechroming of window frames & vent frames causes all sorts of clearance issues with the vertical mechanical labyrinth seal between the vent & door frame. We have blued & trimmed the vertical assembly piece that is screwed to the frame for correct clearance. The vents stay closed while driving. It's just closing the doors that upsets them. I need the size of those Thackery washers to create enough pivot tension.
We have done some hairdryer seal/rubber shaping in a number of areas. |
the hole of the washer is 1/4" inch or 100cm.
the outside diameter of the washer is approximately 3/8" inch. |
Originally Posted by Jose
(Post 2006128)
the hole of the washer is 1/4" inch or 100cm.
the outside diameter of the washer is approximately 3/8" inch. This is the Parts Manual breakdown. I will get new 1/4" Thackery washers & then play around with different material plain washers as jagstuart recommends if necessary. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...8ceb2770eb.jpg |
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be careful tightening that shouldered bolt under the handle, the parts are made of pot metal and easy to strip the thread on the domed handle. The shoulder serves as a "stop" so once it makes contact with the handle, the spring washer takes over to maintain the tension. In other words, that bolt is not tightened per se, it is turned until it makes contact.
the two Battery holdown bolts also use those thackery washers but a larger size which is also used in the XJ-6 bonnet pull handle and also in XK-E. |
Correct!
Yes ~ I"m careful with tightening these things. A drop of Loctite & just nip them. |
well that should do it with the stamping on the edge! yes - VERY careful had to JB mine and tell my passengers to NOT touch the vents!
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Yep! New ones are expensive.
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The Thackery washer listed as 3/16" , there should be 2 fibre washer, one under the head of the stepped bolt and one directly under the bracket.
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...728a53f891.jpg |
3/16" inch being the outer diameter of the thackery spring? I measured the inside diameter of the "hole" and I get 100 centimeters or 1/4" inch. (99.7 cm with my stone age caliper). The outer diameter was very close to 3/8" inch. In other words, almost 1/8" inch wider than the inside hole. Almost.
this reminds me I need to get a blasting cabinet. |
Don't you love it when parts manuals appear to differ (Mk2 vs. S Type). I will order both. They cost FA. The catch mechanism has changed slightly over the years as I learned when selecting parts to re-chrome from my 3 S Types. (Original + 1 donor car complete + 1 rust bucket shell with doors complete & a front axle with PAS box)
Thanks TJ https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...c21e34cd8c.jpg |
Originally Posted by Jose
(Post 2006505)
3/16" inch being the outer diameter of the thackery spring? I measured the inside diameter of the "hole" and I get 100 centimeters or 1/4" inch. (99.7 cm with my stone age caliper). The outer diameter was very close to 3/8" inch. In other words, almost 1/8" inch wider than the inside hole. Almost.
this reminds me I need to get a blasting cabinet. 1/4" is approx 6.35mm, 1/8" is approx 3.2mm, 3/16" is approx 4.8mm A 1/4" thackery washer should be 1/4" internal and approx 7/16" external, a 3/16" thackery washer should be approx 3/8" external. Quick handy helper re bolt part numbers - Jaguar use these quite a lot in the parts books, so you can work out what they are if they use this coding, Jaguar only use these when they are standard sizes, but really handy when you want to know what you need or are looking for in that box of bolts we all have in the workshop. UFS 125 4R -- U "United" F "Fine" S "Set screw", ignore next digit, 25 is the thread diameter in %of an inch so 25/100 = .25 = 1/4" the next digit (or 2) is the length of the bolt/set from under the head to the end of the thread in 1/8"ths of an inch so 4/8" = 1/2" long this is a 1/4" UNF set screw 1/2" long. UFB 131 16R is 31/100" dia = 5/16" 16/8" long 2" so is a 5/16" UNF bolt 2" long |
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