2000 Jaguar S Type Air Conditioning Problem
 

Recently found a problem with my air conditioning, driver side will blow cold air, but the passenger side blows warm air. I've done a few research online, and most of the forums suggested for a replacement of the DCCV (Dual Climate Control Valve) or the CCM (Climate Control Module). Someone suggested me to check to voltage that's getting into the DCCV, making sure it's functioning right. Other ones as in checking the radiator cap for a proper output, cause that might cause a failure to the DCCV. But I want to hear more details on this job before I spend crazy amounts of money.

These links are informative.

DIY: Diagnose It Yourself - JaguarClimateControl.com

If you?re gonna open up your Climate Control Module, who?s gonna stop you? We might as well show you the right way to do it! - JaguarClimateControl.com

Curious to know what damage to the CCM board looks like? See an actual photo here! - JaguarClimateControl.com

I'm working on the same issue, I have a 2001, seems "we" don't have the bad trace for a CCM, however, I am looking at testing the replacement DCCV that was put in by using the methods described on the site given above as you are. Let me know what you find out, I'd be interested to hear. The original DCCV that failed is messy work so I gave it to the mechanic. When mine failed I just had no heat, the right side nor the left, (and it was -31 C driving through the Rockies, I lost some husband points) now I have heat on the floor all the time driver side.

I spend about $500 replacing the DCCV, but only to find out, that wasn't the problem. After that, I experimented with it a little more, found out if I shut the vents on the driver side, the passenger will have cooler air. This brought up something interesting, I research online and a few of the forums said, if the refrigerant level is low, it might cause this symptom because once the refrigerant gets into the expansion vent, it'll evaporate so quick, that it won't reach the passenger side. (So that's a cheap experiment to mess with, maybe I'll get lucky and fix the problem this way). Some of the other considerations is a solenoid that opens a passageway from somewhere between the vent and the passenger side is inoperable. Still have a LONG way to go before finding the actual problem. Another thing is, heat works on both sides of my car, it's just the A/C that's not working on the passenger side.

The ABSOLUTE best way to know how much refrigerant is in the system is to evacuate and WEIGH IT!!!!! Modern A/C machines do this!!!

You can add refrigerant until pressures change if you know how the system works but don't overcharge.

bob gauff

I see, I tried recharging my A/C system once, but it didn't turn out that well. Since then, I've just brought it in the shop, where they do it properly. (Never learned how the machine works, they connect it both to the high and low port, and does the machine give them a reading of some sort?) But this time, I'm going to ask them to evacuate the system and measure it for me before recharging it.

You can install the GAUGES to read the pressures on the 'high and low' sides BUT the the proper way to know the correct charge level is to remove the refrigerant, weigh it and THEN put in the correct amount.

Those A/C machines cost a lot (like $1500 upward) so it is an investment a shop makes to do MANY jobs quickly and accurately.

A home mechanic can buy 12 oz. cans and fill the system with those and get it pretty close. (within tolerance)

You can guess how much a partial or leftover can still has in it and guess the ounces to fill the system. (2 cans is 1.5 pounds)

You can get a conversion chart to get grams to pounds for capacity data.
The cans should have the grams on them as well.

bob gauff