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Been gone for a while and am back with a question

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Old 06-19-2013, 09:17 PM
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Default Been gone for a while and am back with a question

I haven't been around due to some life events. Victoria has been sitting in the showroom at the dealer that I bought it from for about 3 or 4 months. He's a good apple and told me I could store it there until I was able to come up with the money to fix it.

She is throwing codes P0302, P1316, P1111 and P1314. I have some skills with a wrench. Victoria just cracked 100,000 miles when she went down with the codes. lol

I'm thinking the plugs need replacing but I am also a preventative maintenance type of guy and thinking I should change the coils also.

Is it a difficult task to change the coils and plugs?
 
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Old 06-19-2013, 09:24 PM
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You can change a coil out in less than 5 mins, a spark plug (depending on which one) might take another 5 mins. The hard ones to get to are in the back, only because you have to fanagle some things to get the socket in the tube.
 
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Old 06-20-2013, 01:51 AM
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Do grab the codes PDF - free in the stickies and in JTIS - as it shows all those, with their causes. You'll see P1111 is good, not a fault. The other P1... ones really overlap so focus on P0302 (cyl 2 misfire) which most times is a coil. Also grab the Vehicle Specs file as it shows cylinder layout and much more. #2 is good access!

100K is a biggish service - change plugs, drive (accessory) belt. Service schedule also in JTIS and stickies. Veh Specs file shows belt path.

Chances are, not big money.
 
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Old 06-22-2013, 10:26 AM
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There is a shop near me, Stewarts automotive specialist and European cars are their thing. I am just so paranoid of being ripped off. I don't want to take it in and they start telling me all these different things are wrong that are not. I come from the era when a lot of mechanics did this. Unfortunately in the Sacramento California area it is Stewarts and the Jaguar dealer, so I don't have a selection of places.

On the parts geek web site they have a lot of spark plugs for the 4.2. Are the NGK's really that much better for the price?

I plan on ordering the coils and plugs to change them myself. I want to make sure that I'm not wasting money because I know higher cost does not always mean it is best.
 
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Old 06-22-2013, 12:24 PM
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The only real variable in spark plugs is durability. The OEM plugs last (at least) 100K miles, I'd stick with those.
 
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Old 06-23-2013, 03:16 PM
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I did a search and cannot find which brand is OEM.
 
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Old 06-23-2013, 05:01 PM
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4.2 spark plugs NGK IFR5N10
 
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Old 07-09-2013, 11:41 PM
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Looks like the coil for bank 2 was bad. They changed the coil and did a re-flash. That cost $600.00!!! Was I ripped off or is the diagnostic and the time to change out the coil really that lengthy? The shop charges $95.00 and hour.
 
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Old 07-10-2013, 07:56 AM
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Reflash of what?? There is nothing to reflash. The might have used a code scanner to delete the code since they fixed the coil. I'd hate to say it, but it does seem like they pulled one over on you. Figure a coil is anywhere from 60-80, they should have been able to pull the obd2 code and change the code in 15-20 mins max.
 
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Old 07-11-2013, 07:37 AM
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You know Michael I won't know exactly until this afternoon when I pick her up regarding the re-flash.

I do know and forgot to mention that they were going to check and make sure all of the TSB's and updates were done on the car. Would that be considered the reflash or be the reason for the high price??
 
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Old 07-11-2013, 06:38 PM
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Slap me twice and call me Susan. I forgot that I told them to do the fuel injection cleaning. With that here is a copy of the bill. Does this seem like a fair price?
 
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Old 07-11-2013, 08:03 PM
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OK 'Susan' it is.

The fuel system cleaning was probably unnecessary and of little benefit. On the other hand it did no harm.
 
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Old 07-11-2013, 08:23 PM
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What was on the "software update" that calls for 2.5 hours of labor? The fuel system cleaning is usually them hooking up a bottle of the cleaner to a vacuum line and letting the car run; I can't imagine that (maybe 20 minutes of work), clearing codes (5 minutes) and test drive (probably another 5 minutes) would warrant 2.5 hours of labor @125/hour. The update was probably doing something like plugging a scan tool in to the OBDII port and letting it download by itself mixed in with pressing a few buttons, taking a few minutes of actual labor time.
 
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Old 07-11-2013, 08:45 PM
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Sounds like they got me. Last time I visit this shop. I will say, I have heard in conversations with mechanics, techs and people I know that wrench that the fuel system cleaning is a pretty good thing to do considering how bad California fuel is.

Victoria is actually running better then when I bought her a few months ago. Don't know if thats attributed to the coil or the fuel system cleaning. She would always run a bit rough and had a slight shake at idle. Now I can't tell the engine is running at a stop and the drivetrain is smooth.
 

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Old 07-11-2013, 09:10 PM
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That sucks man. I hate to hear anyone getting taken advantage of. The slight shake I can almost guarantee was your coil going out. Expect the rest of the coils to fail at some point in the future. You can either replace them all right now, or replace them one at a time. The nice thing is you can tell when it is a coil as it runs rough, doesn't idle smooth, and might even completely cut out under WOT.

I suggest buying a cheap code scanner or at least going to Discount/Autozone/O'Reillys to have them read the codes first, then check with us here. This board is great on saving people money.
 
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Old 07-11-2013, 10:24 PM
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I plan on changing all the coils and plugs myself. Thats one thing I should be able to do and I have the tools for it.

Live and learn...it really is a shame that businesses still do this kind of crap. They lost a good customer. SO basically the few hundred they overcharged me is a lot less gain then what they would have made from me in the future. Plus I will never recommend them to anyone.
 
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Old 07-11-2013, 10:40 PM
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Is this thread the shop manual? Details on Win7 64 bit new install method & new JTIS21 S-Type archive

If so how the hail do I get it? I can't make heads or tails of the instructions.
 
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Old 07-12-2013, 12:09 AM
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Originally Posted by Diamondrmp
Sounds like they got me. Last time I visit this shop. I will say, I have heard in conversations with mechanics, techs and people I know that wrench that the fuel system cleaning is a pretty good thing to do considering how bad California fuel is.
They certainly got you. California fuel is no better/worse/different than anywhere else on the continent. Old myth.

Modern gasoline has more than enough cleaning additives already, no supplements needed. Jaguar specifically recommends against them.
 
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Old 07-13-2013, 03:53 PM
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Well, I sent the owner Stewart and email letting him know how displeased I am. I explained to him how everyone I've talked to on this forum and other car and motorcycle forums I belong too all say I got screwed on the labor.

I also explained to him how the couple of hundred he made off me now pales in comparison to the future business from me had the shop been stand up and done the honest thing.

I closed the letter by saying that I would be more then happy to patronize his business in the future if he can give me a good legitimate reason for the labor hours.

I received an email this morning, since they are closed he must have sent it from home. He is calling me Monday so we can talk. That quick response from him is a step in the right direction however just being responsive does not take away the sting of being ripped off for labor.
 
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Old 07-15-2013, 01:58 PM
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I just got off the phone with Stewart. He is a very nice and patient guy. He was very detailed in explaining to me all of the work done on my car.

As I stated in one of my replies I know that she is running and idling very smoothly now. Stewart explained that the difference between the before and after idle is due to the injection system cleaning.

Some of you say that the fuel injection cleaning is not necessary. Well, check out the TSB.

http://www.jagrepair.com/images/TSB/...0Injectors.pdf
 
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