Heres a vid as title says, worth a watch guys.

On our S types the room between the tunnel and the fill plug is a much, much tighter area.

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...ad.php?t=50868

 

Sam,

Thanks for taking the time and hassle to make and post this video. It really drives home how tough this task is when you have to do it on your back, especially when those torx pan bolts decide they are going to fight you every step of the way....


Rick,

Thanks for bringing Sam's video over to the S-Type section so more of us will see it. I do not look forward to attempting to stuff my gorilla hands up into our much smaller transmission tunnel to do battle with that fill plug....

 

This really wasn't that difficult of a job. I have a tendency to make things look tougher than then really are! LOL! As long as you have the right tools just about anyone could do it. For me, this was just an excuse to buy more tools!

Today I'm starting work on my front suspension, and wouldn't you know it, I need more tools! I'm off to Harbor Freight and Northern Tool to buy stuff! (Don't tell my wife )

 

I noticed in your youtube channel you arent very far from me. Are you near the Clayton area saw the video of the fire. I'm in Fuquay-Varina. I like you do videos. Maybe we can get together and have a video/repair party. LOL. I just got a tripod for my videos but really havent had to do anything to my Jag to make a video of it.

 

I agree I would pay the extra 25 and get a orginal ZF pan. I think the biggest difference in the Rock auto pan and tha ZF pan is prob. what you don't see"the transmission filter" I would bet money the filter in the cheaper pan is horrible.

Also I have been thinking about this alot and would like to know how other fluids like ford sp and catrols multi import mixes with lifguard? because unless you take the tranny out and take torque conv. out you will still have a couple of quarts of ZF fluid mixing with what ever you put in there.

To me this would cause problems. I think if you are gonna change fluid type you better make sure you get ALL the old fluid out!

 

Just the title of this thread gives you an idea of how difficult this job is going to be. So are we allowed to pas a "collection plate" to assist the repair funding?

 

C'mon! Did you watch the video? I didn't mess anything up! LOL!

 

No I'm not that far into ownership and I want to save it as a fun surprise ...

I lust love the thread title. I'm a bit twisted at times.

 

I'm just down the road from you in Clayton! It seems that there are quite a few forum members who live in the Raleigh area. We should all get together some weekend for a back roads drive to beach or something.

 

Just found Mercon SP at o'reilly auto parts for $3.99!

 

Suppose it's a different fluid, as it likely is. Would you mix it in?

 

This is my whole question, is it good to mix fluids?

I mean if you could drop pan start engine run all the fluid out of tranny and torque conv. then I would say mercon sp would do great....But to mix it with what is left in the torque conv. How good is that?

It's kinda like antifreeze..you can use whatever you like as long as you completly get all the old out of engine and rad. Mixing it is a no no.

 

I'm definitly game. I'm mainly only in the S type section. If we get a meet we will have to post it up in the regional and I'll start paying attention to other areas so I'll catch it.

 

Great video by the way! But I really think you should have changed out the Sleeve even tho it wasn't leaking. IF god for bid it starts leaking the only way to change that sleeve is to drop the tranny pan and you know what that means The whole process needs to be redone.

TAke care and keep on rolling

 

Yes, good video, and I'm sure that man was an actor, his hands were too clean! When I come out from under a car, I look like I've been up a chimney.
For getting out the filler-plug, I used a good quality allen key/hexwrench of 8mm. plus a pair of pliers for extra leverage. They are on quite tight BTW. You can get allen keys also with a 'long handle', much easier.
Be careful to remember the 10mm. sump-plug is plastic, so an air-tool might strip it on retightening unless there is a slipping clutch on it to set to a low torque. I used another allen key and tightened it until there was a slight spring-back from the plastic.
Excellent news about Mercon SP ATF fluid, it should have the right additives for the torque converter's continuously-slipping clutch. No need for Dr. Tranny here!
It has been suggested from where I can't remember, but if you leave the draining of old fluid overnight, or better 24 hours, most of the old fluid trapped in the torque converter seeps out slowly and exits via the drain plug. If you find you can get nearly 10litre of ATF in the filler, then you can assume the converter has emptied. If it's less than 8litre, it hasn't. BTW., one litre is near enough a quart. I've never heard of a problem with some old fluid mixing with the new, or different manufacturers being incompatible. Of course, full-synth. ATF is best, I hope the Mercon SP is. (Full-synth. because it stands excessive fluid temps. much better, and last twice as long as mineral).

I DID like those chassis stands he had, the pre-setting method looks a lot better than mine, which is just a peg in a hole.
Oh my, "sealed for death"! Wish I'd thought of that gag. Should be sent to Zee-Eff.
Leedsman.

 

I felt like I was listening to a Harbor Freight ad or something.

Good video, good clarity.