Brake Lights won't turn on/brake cancel switch not working. Replaced still nothing!
 

Hey everyone. I just picked up a 2000 s type v6 and have a few problems. Among the problems I hope to solve today are that my brake cancel switch is throwing a code of p1572, and I have no brake lights.
I replaced the blue brake cancel switch (assuming this is the cruise control cancel switch), and after erasing the code, it still comes up. I also replaced the grey brake light switch and I still have no brake lights. When I press the pedal, I can hear a click from below the shifter that it is releasing the j gate for me to get out of park, but for some reason, my brake lights won't come on. Does anyone know whats going on here. I would appreciate any help i can get.
thanks

Bueller?
Anyone.....

Not to be captain obvious over here but:

Have you checked the bulbs and the fuses?

Take care,

George

I did check the bulbs and the fuses, and they all check out. The other problem too, is that the brake cancel switch which i replaced still throws a code. Both the brake switch and the brake cancel switch are wired to the same harness, but the weird thing is that the brake switch activates the switch that releases the shifter from park, so I am assuming the harness is fine. I'm really stuck here.

Check out the circuit diagrams and meter the 2 switches through (active & inactive). You may have to adjust the set of one or other switch (or the pedal) or have harness damage. Hope you don't have anything worse!

I have the same code (P1572) and I have replaced both switches...I have brake lights and the car runs fine, except for the "fail safe engine mode" light and then it goes to limp mode....I have had the codes cleared and it comes right back...I'm stuck...love some help...

Hey. What my problem turned out to be was a bad body processing module (i think that was the name of it; It is in the trunk on the passenger side behind the carpeting. I bought one off of ebay, but took it to my indie to have it programmed to my car. Hopefully your problem is much simpler than mine.

See post #5.

I think a dealer-type OBD tool could also read the switches but the meter is a whole lot cheaper.