Hello Forum Members,
I've been driving my recently aquired 2007 s type for about three months now. I assumed when I purchased the care that the cooling system could have issues. no surprise, There is seepage at the radiator and the water pump. I generally top up the reservoir every couple of drives. I've now aqired just about every thing I'll need to replace the whole system. I'll do the belt, Pullys, water pump hoses radiator. This car drives fantastic so I want to make it more road worthy and not let .coolant leak destroy this car. So far I've DIY changed all the fluid including transmission. Still just under 100K on the car but only 800 Mi from me.

My issue is with the electric fan. It's winter here in So. California and I'm seeing days about 60 F. If I let the car warm up, I don't see the fan come on at all. Air conditioner on or not, I do not hear or see the electric fan start. I purchased the car in October so I have driven the car in the heat, but I can't remember if the fan came on or not. What is considered normal fan operation for the V6? I will test the fan out of the car. If it need replacement can a generic fan be used? Is there a way of testing the fan controller? Is there are good aftermarket source for the fan and or controler?
Thanks,
Hirst

 

Ooh, don't do that. The fan will turn into a very angry helicopter and fly across your garage. If you want to test it, do that while it is still securely mounted in the car.

I don't have good access to the manuals while on my phone. I'd suggest checking any fuses in the system. Wiring diagrams are here:

JagRepair.com - Jaguar Repair Information Resource

 

Easy was to test is go low temp for a/c. Fan should be commanded on. If not check relay and/or follow karls climate control thread or whatever he advises. No aftermarket that i am aware as far as direct fit. Noma auto parts in texas has a couple. I thought i needed one. Nice thing is 2003-2008 4.2 v8s all have same fan assembly. There is also i big plug in behind the passenger front wheel liner that can get corroded. It accessible by removing the main undertray or the liner. Should be 2 10 gauge wires. One+ and one- not for sure if when you turn a/c on if the compressor does not activate for some reason if fan is still commanded on

 

IIRC, you should be able to make it run by turning on the AC.

Place a rag across the grill and make sure the airflow is sufficient to hold the rag in place.

You mentioned you didn't see the fan turning. Be careful, as I vaguely remember somebody else who also thought the fan was dead. Turns out they were looking at the fixed vanes on the far aft side of the fan/motor/shroud assembly. The actual spinning fan blades are much further forward, close to the radiator, and may be difficult to see without a mirror.

Hopefully your fan checks out fine. On 2003+ models, the fan motor is a brushless design that should theoretically last forever. (Earlier models use regular carbon brushes on the motor, with a finite life span.)

 

That could be Jags new drone. Flys high but no rudder.

 

I'm no F150 pro, so these are ideas...
Get a thermometer and test it in a pan as you get near, then reach boiling, to see if you got a good one.
Now use it, watching the temps as you warm it up.
It should vary as the thermostat opens and closes.
A thermal temp gun might be useful in lieu.
I do not recall how hard it is to yank the thermostat in these.
That "rag" idea is good. My dad used cardboard to block his radiator in a cold area of Northern Nevada. Might a hair dryer help feed the fan warm air? But don't melt any of your grill.

EDIT: The thermostat is a common item to replace when doing work on a radiator or water pump. I try to do a thorough flush before or during this kind of work. It can sometimes show if the PO let maint go as there can be rust stains that are more then in expected. Remember to finish off with distilled water. Some mechanics not even know this if you have good water in the area.

 

BTW, whether from ignorance or old age or reading of folks "upgrading" their fans from fan-clutch (mechanical) to electric, I posted under the assumption that you are adding an electrical fan. If not, I assume that at some times, under medium loads, an electric fan ought to come in. So if the latter is the case, I would use cardboard to test with.

 

Hello Forum Members,
Thanks for all the good advise and info on the Cooling for for the s-type 3.0. I should have tried the simplest too first, but that's not me. I checked the wiring diagrams, identified the fuses and inspected them carefully. All good. When the winds and fires out here calmed down in So Cal, I was able to place the ac on full and using s sheet of paper over the grill confirm that my fan is working. It does seem to operate a varying speeds adjusting to demand. I can definitely hear the fan come on every time the AC Compressor kicks on. Not very loud though. Well now I'm ready to start a full restoration of my s-type s cooling system. I may start in a week. At 99K it only look like a few select hoses have been replaced.
I'll post a follow up on the service and parts resources.
Hirst.

 

Hello Forum Members,
Finally some completed work on my cooling system. When I bought the car last year. I drover it home 100 miles fingers crossed guessing that there was a coolant leak somewhere. I drove the car locally over a few months but had to keep topping off the reservoir and would often get the odor of coolant. I assumed buying the car it would need a Water Pump and belt at minimum. 99K miles and no real service records. A nice driving and looking car. All the service has been DIY. Oil change, Transmission fluid and filter and Diff. I slowly collected every hose and component of the cooling system. The good new is. As of March 2025 , one can buy every hose, pulley, water pump, belt and tensioner. FCP auto, Rock auto, parts geek and ebay. Not a single source has them all. The water pump was the worst. Oh yes a Nissen radiator. From FCP and they do come packaged well and functions great.
Boy this project needs a lot of patients. The bottom apron and chin plastic all need to come off, Ramps are needed to access everything from below. The hoses are complex and all need to be labeled on removal. The water pump is easy except for a bracket holding a vacuume line that needs to be loosened before final removal of the pump. The thermostat housing was so corroded it was trash. Everything had a crust of crystalized coolant and or corrosion. When everything was off i used Gunk spray to clean the engine front before replacing pullys, tensioner and pump. Like many forum members mentioned, The radiator is tricky getting out. I had to manipulate the side foam and bend the aluminum AC pipe slightly to slide up the radiator. I'm glad I went for the whole system. It's about 600.00 parts. Some Jag original, some rein, some Uro and Gates. I think I researched all the steps and difficulties well before. I have the shop manual. I had the torque specs ready. No rushing and I quit when I felt fatigued. I'm 71 and an a home DIY mechanic.
Now,
The car runs great. Not a drip anywhere.

note below the rein 3 way hose is a perfect copy. I also purchased a rein 6 way hose.


Below cleaned up, new tensioner and pulleys. ready for the WP.

I replaced the coolant reservoir too so I can trust this system 100%.

A few more project to go. Re plumb the windshield washer system. Sway bar rods and tie rod ends. Plus new tires.

I hope this helps of inspires someone to keep another s-type on the road.
Hirst

 

Excellent job and excellent color car. I too have replaced all cooling system parts except not all at once. A very nice feeling knowing the cooling system is less than 5 years old in my case. The last problem i had was the bleed screw in the rad tank blew the top off. I probably overtightened the plastic dude up a bit and cracked it. Now there is a landrover metal one in there. The only other problem that arose was when i replaced the rad i caused the trans lines to twist a bit and caused a seep leak. I replaced the rubber portion and all is good. Keep an eye on those lines as they like to seep at the crimp

 

My 2007 S Type needed another project. The windshield washers were not spraying. I could hear the motor running but no evidence of any fluid. After spending some time on the hood restoring the cooling system I could see that the feed hoses were just hanging in shreds. But why no fluid on the ground. I diagnosed two problems. 1) The common clogged filter inside the tank / pump. 2) degraded hoses, possible rodent damage from the past. I read the threads about removing the tank but wanted to try a different approach. I filled up my tank with hot water and coffee machine cleaner. I used Cafiza brand which is used for espresso machines. It says sodium percarbonate and sodium carbonate. I believe this is the same as tsp and backing soda. I left the mixture in the tank and drove around for two days. Each time I siphoned out the tank there as a bit more dirt. finally I filled the tank with water and volia! water was squirting on the ground thru the leaking hoses. Last I bought new hose material from Napa. Both diameters will be needed. I used a plastic coated wire "Green in the photos" to help pass the new hose from the right front fender liner to the right hood hinge and finally re plumb the washers. I did have to remove the front half of inner wheel liner. Pretty easy. There I was able to splice into an intact hose exiting the washer tank. Great to have the washers working for spring as there are big bugs in the air. Photo 2 with the white zip tie shoes the line from the washer tank.




I hope this can help someone with the same issue. Wheel off, Wheel liner 1/2 way off and plastic cover off where the cabin filter resides. That's not too bad.
Hirst