I have checked with my 2003 3.0 s type with the mongooser and it seems that I have a "Evaporator discharge temperature sensor failure". It seems to be grounding out. This might explain why sometimes the air conditioner does not cool down at first.

I am having the darndest time finding where this sensor is, to inspect its condition.

Does anybody have a suggestion of where this sensor is. I have checked JTIS and JEPC and came up with little to nothing.

And regarding it grounding out, is this a failure of the sensor, or could the plug come disconnected from the sensor, and the plug is grounding out?

Or, heaven forbid, there is nothing wrong with the sensor, its the climate control module that has gone south?

Thanks for your help.

 

(I used Adv Search, keywords evaporator discharge, just for forum S-Type.)

I think this thread & post 14 may help https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...-hot-air-9456/

 

Thanks V8. Who would think that "Evaporator Discharge" would be the more useful search string?

After reading those 5 threads, I think I now know what I am up against.

And sadly, so does the vendor of the temperature sensors. They jacked their price up from approx $15 in 2011 to approx $72 in 2012.

Like I said before, 'F me.

Hoping mine is just so dirty as to read 122 degrees C in IDS. Knocking on wood that it is a simple clean up, or possibly a separation of leads at the thermisistor (that they might be shorting together).

 

They are the same as the Lincoln LS. You can get them at any Ford dealer for about $15 each.

Since you have an actual error code (What is the code number?) I would change the sensor. The grill above your ignition key also has a temperature sensor behind it and that one gets dirty because the air flow is opposite of all the other sensors. Air is drawn in across this sensor from the interior of the car. It gets coated with dirt. So you might want to clean that too as you are having problems. Plus it’s hard to replace but easy to clean!

The other sensors don't get dirty as airflow is out into the car interior and the S Type has a cabin filter so you are flowing filtered air across them.

Two pictures below just so we are talking about the same part. There are two of these on the driver’s side and one on the passenger side. Inside the car look under the dash towards the center console. Only the head of the sensor will be visible. They have two tangs that need to be compressed and then they just pull out. All three sensors are the same. Pictures have been posted to show where they are. They are kind of hidden so the first time you are likely to miss them.





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Yes, those are the ones I am looking for under the dash, will try in about 2 hours. And those are the ones selling for $72 each.

I will check with an online site that sells lincoln parts to see if it is cheaper. Fingers crossed.

 

They are a pain in the neck to get at and out, if you know a midget contortionist it will help!
I put mine in the freezer and compared he resistance, as they were all the same I assumed they were good. (I didn't have any info on what they should be.)

 

(EDIT: Notes in parenthesis are after I wrote this and looked up the new DTCs)
Well, over the lunch break, I crawled under the dash and disconnected each sensor, one at a time, and then checking the DTC codes with the mongooser.

I was hoping that if I disconnected the bad sensor, the B1947 would go away be be replaced with a different DTC.

Ok, so disconnect the upper driver's side one. I got a B1946 (open in evap sensor) in addition to the B1947 (short in evap sensor). I reset the codes and scanned again. Yep, still both. So, not the upper driver's side. Reattached the connector. (NOTE: This is a contradiction, what is going on here? How can you have both? Later on, I am going to check this again.)

Disconnected the lower drivers side and reset and scanned again. Both a B1947 and a B1966 (open in driver sensor). Not the lower drivers side. Reattached the connector.

Disconnected the passenger side and reset and scanned again. Both a B1947 and a B2428(open in passenger sensor). Not the passenger side. Reattached the connector.

So it seems its got nothing to do with those sensors.

Any ideas? Anyone? .... Anyone? ... Buehler?

 

Well, I checked it again, and sure enough, it was the upper drivers side sensor.
I pulled all three sensors out and measured them with an ohmmeter. 21k ohms, 23k ohms, 232 ohms. Guess which one was giving the DTC?

I was so happy that I figured out what was wrong I did something totally stupid.

I tried to reflash the ECU. Now the car won't start and the message center is displaying ABS fault, DSC fault, Transmission fault, you name it, its got a fault.

Me and my bright ideas. To make matters worse, I am at my office and I will need a tow to take it home. Keeping fingers crossed that leaving the battery disconnected for a while will do some magic.

Guess I get to start a new thread, or research for another one for this new predictament.

I am an idiot.

 

Well, the universe sought kindly and saved this idiots ***.

With immense help from post #10 by JagMan1984 from this thread, https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...41/#post464164 I was able to get the car going again.
In the future, I plan to write up a procedure how to do this, so that others won't be hosed like I thought I was.

Many, many thanks to Jagman for posting that info. Otherwise, I would have needed to tow the car home. I owe him a beer or something.

 

O M G random/hasty reflashing - not recommended!

Looking forward to more details, though

 

An update for those who read through this thread.
RockAuto Auto Parts has the temperature sensor for a very reasonable $15.36.

2002 LINCOLN LS Ambient Air Temperature Sensor

The motorcraft part number on the sensor is WX4H-19C734BC
It is also a motorcraft part YH1504

 

Do you have all that test gear?? IDS/WDS ect??
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Yep! Right now, I have two laptops dedicated to a JLR Mongooser. (the r is for replica) I am using IDS-SDD V131.
A few years ago, I bought an actuall WDS handheld unit for sh$ts 'n grins, but it had no cables nor functioned very well. I donated it to a charity flea market.
I work on my own motorcycles, so I have some test gear for syncronizing carbs and throttle bodies on them. I have some other test gear, but it is old and outdated. And I have that key/immobilizer programmer. I am waiting for a Toyota TIS cable to be delivered so that I can mistakenly 'F up my Matrix.

 

Darn. I tried to get a WDS.