I offer my sincere apologies!!! I unintentionally caused the issue with the car not running in the first place.

At one point before the issue with the car not starting, I pulled out some fuses to inspect them since I was having the misfiring issue. However, I placed one cartridge in the wrong place. I had the engine management system power supply cartridge on F8 but I should have been placed it back to F9 were it belonged instead (that fuse is among the fuses and relays under the car hood). Once I put it back, the car started ok.

Now, I am still left with the dilemma of the misfiring.

++++++++++++++++++

A little bit of history on the ignition coils: Since the mechanic told me that I had a defective ignition coil, I went back to the store and not only returned that one "bad" but another one of the same brand that I had purchased there. Therefore, my car has all new coils but two. I placed the old ones bank just for testing.

I was able to rent an OBD trouble code reader from the parts store.

I got the code readings before erasing them:

P0302 Cylinder 2 Misfire Detected
P1314 Misfire Rate Catalyst Damage Fault - Bank 2
P1316 Misfire Rate Exceeds Emissions
P1000 OBD Systems Readiness Test Not Complete

Then, I erased the codes and drove the car.

The check engine light came on again. Also, it was flashing.

I noticed that the check engine light flashes when I give it gas or when it is going up on a hill (it does not have to be a big hill).

I came back home and perform another code reading:

P0306 Cylinder 6 Misfire Detected
P1314 Misfire Rate Catalyst Damage Fault - Bank 2
P0356 Ignition Coil F Primary / Secondary Circuit
P1000 OBD Systems Readiness Test Not Complete

If I am not mistaken cylinder 1, 2, and 3 are on bank 1 while 4, 5 and 6 are on bank 2.

Cylinder 2 (misfiring before erasing the code) has a new ignition coil.
Cylinder 6 (misfiring after erasing the code) has an old ignition coil.

I do not know if the battery is still the problem or the old ignition coils are creating the misfire or something else.

Thank you.

 

Flashing MIL = actual damage to cat occurring

Do not keep doing that!

Buy new coils / swap them around / check circuits / etc - see the workshop manual and/or use Search

 

 

On a 2004 model, both cylinders 2 & 6 are thankfully not on the bank covered by the intake manifold. Now, just because you replaced a coil-pack does not mean that it is good. No-name, bargain brand coils have a notoriously bad reputation on our cars. OE quality parts, e.g. Denso, NGK, Lucas, etc. should be installed; to use lesser quality parts is to invite the kinds of problems you are experiencing.

 

Okay, but before proceeding, I have a big question that must be addressed:

During any of your recent troubleshooting, have you done anything such as removing the pistons and/or crankshaft for inspection? If so, are you absolutely positive you have reinstalled them? Just checking. Don't want to overlook any possibilities...

Back to your current fault codes. You are in luck because Bank 2 is the one acting up. That is on the US driver's side, the bank that is easy to access. Here is Jaguar's cylinder numbering for the V6, to be triple positive you're working on the correct cylinders:

http://www.jagrepair.com/images/Trai..._numbering.pdf


This document details how to investigate the various fault codes you have recorded:

http://www.jagrepair.com/images/Auto..._OBD_II_R2.pdf


I need to pick your brain about something. Before clearing the codes, you had a misfire fault for cylinder 2 (P0302). After you cleared the codes, the fault shifted to cylinder 6 (P0306 and P0356). Did you do anything else in between? Had you swapped coils around, reseated connectors, anything like that? It's fairly unusual for a fault code to shift around like that.

Now, this is probably a good time for me to get up on my MisfireSoapbox™. This is a recurring event in the forum. For maximum effect, please turn on your speakers and play this as theme music while I rant:



Speakers on? Good, here I go:

If the computer has set a misfire code, please be aware "misfire" wasn't the best terminology that could have been used. Misfire sounds like an ignition problem, at least to me, meaning the fuel and compression were there, but for whatever reason, the required spark was missing or weak. This might lead a good-looking aspiring mechanic to troubleshoot the daylights out of a perfectly good ignition system. I do not care to discuss how I know this.

In OBD-speak, misfire simply means one or more cylinders is putting out low power compared to the others. Pretty much anything affecting the output of a cylinder can set a misfire code. It can be low compression. It can be a valve not opening fully. It could be a clogged fuel injector. And yes, it could be an ignition problem, too, but don't overlook the other possibilities, too.

[/soapbox mode off]


With that said, in your case, the coils on the suspect cylinders (2 and 6) are the most likely culprits. What brand(s) are installed? Are they a store brand from a discount chain? Are they no-names from eBay? There are some really suspect coils out there. Unless you can verify you've got reputable name brands installed (Motorcraft, Delphi, Denso, Bosch, etc.), I'd replace those coils. Please, please, please, don't go back to the same store and purchase more from the same source, even if they have a lifetime warranty.

While you have the coils out, make sure that no oil has collected in the spark plug wells. This is a common problem if the cam cover gasket is leaking, and can short out multiple coils on the same bank.

And as previously mentioned, do NOT continue driving when the check engine light is flashing.

 

You don't write...

You don't call...

You never even sent flowers...

What we had, is it over?...

 

There may be an issue with one of the control modules not communicating with the instrument cluster. See the attached document and note the diagram on page 2 showing the CAN layout and module relationships.

Edit: Glad the issue was successfully resolved.