I just picked up my 2003 STR from the indy mechanic. I originally planned on just changing the trans fluid/pan/sleeve and cam covers (theyre seeping). Here's what I walked out with...

- Trans fluid change w/additive, sleeve $745 ($345 labor $400 parts)
- Replace serpentine belt & supercharger belt $394 ($260 labor $134 parts)
- Replace coolant reservoir $195 ($65 labor $130 part )
- replace heater valve (DCCV) $385 ($260 labor $125 parts)
- replace air filter $26
- replace transmission cooler hoses, rubber lines only $395 ($370 labor $25 parts)

Work done by Jaguar Coventry (they seem to have a solid reputation)

They found the trans cooler lines seeping when changing the fluid. I had the low engine coolant light on since I replaced the expansion hoses some time back. I thought it was a bad sensor in the tank but the light is still on so it seems to be an electrical issue further up the line. They shunted the connector and the light stayed on. Upside is now I have a spare expansion tank.

I have two concerns:

1. I have heard what seems to be bad pinging (I have posted about this before) when the car is fully warmed up under light load. I asked the mechanics to take a look and the theory/recommendation proposed was to replace my motor mounts since they were bad and the engine is nearly touching the frame (estimate $695). He said it wasn't a definitive fix but it was the only option discussed. Engine isn't throwing codes.

2. I took a closer look when I got home and noticed a connector wire resting against the new belt. Does anyone know what this is? I am worried it will cause issues rubbing against the belt. It leads back near the bottom left side of the expansion tank towards and possibly under the engine (I couldn't tell). I tried to tuck it away from the belt. Pics attached...






I held off on the cam covers (estimate $795 to reseal both or $1270 to replace). I might come back for those next month but they were too pricey to add currently.
The mechanic also found a bad rear transmission mount (estimate $249)
Troubleshooting the low coolant light would be $130-$260

 

A few thoughts.

That connector should be connected to something.

Make sure the DCCV and Coolant level sensor on the bottom of the expansion tank are connected.

Nonetheless, get that away from any moving parts. Zip tie it away until you can get it sorted.

You got hosed on the serpentine and SC belt replacement. That one is rather easy. I'm biased as most service shops over charge anyways but I totally get it...

 

….And this is an example of why DIY maintenance/repairs is a must for anyone wanting to continue owning and driving our aging Jaguars. If you must rely on a shop, even a reputable indie, you can easily wind up spending more than the vehicle is worth....

 

That loose connector is for the coolant level sensor. If you leave it disconnected, you get a low coolant warning (ask me how I know, I always seem to forget to connect it when I work in that area). So, if that is disconnected and you have a low coolant warning. The fact that they left it like that and want to charge you up to $260 to diagnose it is a little alarming. Should be able to reconnect it without removing anything, or get the shop to do it, since they replaced the coolant tank, they obviously forgot to reconnect it.

 

Yeah, I reconnected the coolant sensor and still no joy. I'm guessing they left it off after trying to shunt it when the new expansion tank didn't do the trick.

New concern, I have the following leaks showing up on the ground. One appears to be coolant, the other appears to also have a reddish hue but looks like very dirty oil. Could this be transmission fluid? The old fluid removed from the tranny was red in color (replaced with zf fluid). I am going to try placing a little on the ground to see how they compare. Does tranny fluid sometimes spill/overflow after a fluid change?

 

You most likely have a transmission fluid leak, either from the sump or the electrical connector sleeve at the rear of the transmission housing. Most of the approved ATFs for the six speed ZF box are not red in color; you mentioned an additive in your original post, so that may be the source of the red tint.

I would take the car back to your "indy" with a list of the issues and have them sort things out, as it does not appear that a workmanlike job was done on the work performed.