Could it be a crankshaft position sensor?

 

First things first, please define "power but no crank". Are you saying there's no response from the starter (no crank?) when you turn the key to Start?

If no starter response, check that P is illuminated at the base of the shift lever. Also try moving the shift lever from P to N and back while holding the key to Start.

Next thing to check is the indicator light for the anti-theft system. Under some conditions, the starter will be inhibited. Under other conditions, the starter will run as normal but the injectors won't operate. To rule out either scenario, watch the light. It is located at the base of the windshield, center of the dash.

Here's how the light behaves if all is good. Lock the car with the key fob. Press the lock button a second time to set the alarm system. The horn should chirp once. Watch the little red light. It should flash once every few seconds or so to show the system is armed. Now press the key fob unlock button twice to unlock all the doors. The red light should go out. Now hop in the driver's seat and turn the key to RUN (Not start yet). The red light should come on solid ONCE for about 3 seconds and then go out. If it flashes anything after that, you've got a stored fault and the security system may have inhibited the starter and/or injectors.

 

Thanks, Karl.
My key fob does not work. I may have a bad battery because the lights seem weak. I will attempt a jump start tomorrow and see where this gets me.

IF this doesn't work I'll get a tow to the Battery Store and see if they can help.

 

From your reply, I take it you don’t have a battery charger?

You will want the battery fully charged before any troubleshooting. I highly recommend an automatic charger with at least a ten amp output. A trickle charger won’t cut it, don’t waste your money.

You can always remove the battery and catch a ride to the battery shop. They can test and charge it for you. WAY cheaper than dragging the whole car there behind a tow truck.

 

I had a tow truck driver come out and he diagnosed the problem. The starter is dead. It looks as if I'll have to have it towed in and replaced.
Thanks to all..

 

Problem solved. My starter has died. I can buy a replacement on Amazon for about $66.00 (USD).

Thanks to all.

 

Care to elaborate how this was determined? The poor starter often gets blamed for other faults in the system. Personally, I'd want to be triple sure before ordering a new starter.

If interested, here's a quick test you can do. Under the hood, in the front power distribution box, remove relay R20. This is the starter control relay. You can see it here, figure 02.1, upper right on that page:

http://www.jagrepair.com/images/Elec...al%20Guide.pdf

With a voltmeter, check for battery power at socket #3. If good, make sure the transmission is in Park and remove the key from the ignition. Connect a jumper from socket #3 to #5. (A paper clip would be fine.) The starter should run. The engine won't start as the ignition is off, but this is only a test of the starter.

You can, but should you? That price sounds too good to be true. Make sure it's not some brand you've never heard of before. Those are typically poorly built Chinese knock-offs, with dismal reliability. I don't know if quality new starters are available anymore. If not, personally I'd rather install a quality reman versus gambling on a shiny new Fling Dung brand starter.

 

Hi captainobvious1,

Is this the thread you intended to post to? Which of your Jaguars are you posting about?

Cheers,

Don

 

Don,

My mistake. This should be in the "S-type" section of the forum.

Sorry.

 

I called Dr. Auto in Warren, OR and have decided to have my S-type towed over to Darrin's shop on Slaven Rd. (midway between St. Helens, and Scappoose, OR). This will be accomplished on Thursday, July, 15. It is likely that he'll be finished with it that very afternoon. The man is fair and an excellent mechanic, (He also understands the underpinnings of the S-type).
My S-type will likely be back on the road by Friday the 16th.

 

They came for the '03 silver S-type at 1120 hours. Repairs were effected in less than four hours. The Cat is up and running and I'll have it back by 1600 at the latest. It cost me less than $300.00 (USD) for everything. The work was professionally performed with the correct parts needed to assure long life for the work.

 

Excellent conclusion. It seems like you have a great mechanic with old school knowledge and fairness. Thanks for finishing out the thread with an ending

 

Before I had the car towed into his shop, I called Darrin and explained the situation to the best of my knowledge. He concurred that I had probably lost the starter. He had finished the job within three hours after the Jaguar had arrived. Darrin performs brilliantly and is honest as the day is long. (This is why the man stays so busy). We all know that the 3.0 V6 engine was, and is, a fine piece of FoMoCo engineering. Properly maintained, thee engines possess a long service life.

Thanks to all, and may your Jaguar S-type motorcars run as long as you desire.

 

the 3.0 is a jaguar design based on a duratec block. heads are very different

 

Yes, Jaguar took a great engine block and improved upon the heads. This is a given. I still believe that both Ford and Jaguar deserve credit for building such a fine piece of engineering.

 

Dude, you are SO fortunate to have a super-competent and honest independent Jag mechanic in your area. I totally envy you. I live in the Greater DC area, and I have not found any Jag mechanics (independent or dealership) that can successfully diagnose a problem I've been having for 3 years with my '05 STR. Guess I'll have to move to Oregon Thanks for the post.