By the way, I never doubted you for a second Karl. Next time you're in the San Francisco area, let me show you my 1959 International Harvester school bus that I've spent well over $50,000 converting into a limo. I built that girl from bumper to bumper. I can work on her blindfolded. I can do MacGyver work on her and she still runs. This luxury car thing is nice and I'm sure it's good for the brain cells but wow, what a ride it is to work on these girls. Thank you so much. Your darts are in the mail along with a blank check and a can of starter fluid. A 9/16 wrench does just about everything on her. But she ain't no Jag (That's NASA in the background)

 

 

While doing that lets check the flash code please.

 

 

Of course the spare key may not exhibit any flashing, which would be nice.

 

You guys are too funny! Squirrels, dart guns and tranquilizers... oh my ! ! Okay, back on track here with "the longest repair job in history". I've come very close to just giving up and digging into my savings but I'm bound and determined to chase this 'no fuel' problem down. So..... I got the CODE from the blinking red light. It's a ONE and a SIX. I'm guessing the code is 16? Anyway, I don't know what that means and in the meantime while I hopefully get an answer from you guys I'll poke around the manual to see if I can find out what 16 means. No, I do not have an extra key. From what I've heard, it could cost over $500 to have one made but that's a different subject. Thanks for you help.

 

No poking Steve here's the answer...........I haven't read it yet!

 

It seems I found the page with the list of codes as you suggested but it still doesn't make sense. I'm on page 6-54. My code is 16. The "mode of operations" says...."SCP Network fault - PCM verify - does not match key status" . Not sure what those other numbers mean. Not sure of the next step. Thank you.

 

This one ?

 

Do you have a spare key Steve, have you tried it?

 

Yes, I found that page too...eventually. Now that I see the page, I have no idea what to do next or understand what it means. BTW, my code was 16.
No spare key.
Thank you very very much ! !
Steve

 

Any chance a group of automotive students have been secretly practicing on your car, perhaps late at night while you're sleeping? See post #10 here:

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...arting-180412/


I'm not sure of the exact location of this bulkhead connector, but it would be worth inspecting.

I've been searching the forum, as this code 16 seems to be the most common security code. Found a few examples, but not a single one had any useful followup. Anybody got any concrete steps poor Steve can follow? Is this going to require a dealer-level reprogramming or similar?

Steve, can you please refresh our feeble memory on the recent history of the car? How long have you owned it and was any recent work done before this all transpired? I'm just trying to get a feel for any possible causal events, such as changing the bulbs in the dash or touching the key to a Van der Graff generator at your local science museum...

 

Recent work on the car? Yes, I put all new 'over coils' in 2 months ago. It ran great after that. That's it. I've had the car for about a year. The chart description of an error code of 16 as stated in post #69 above is Greek to me. There's a lot of 'language' used in these threads that I'm not familiar with and abbreviations that I find myself running off to identify. I have no idea what this means "it turned out to be a bulkhead connector above the left foot of the driver side connector". I need to keep a list of abbreviations at hand. Some that I've run into are: INST PK - PCM - PATS Code - SCP - DTC's and more. Hey, it's just a car. I'm doing my best to get it running. I've been at this for over a month. I'd rather be driving it than sitting here doing this. That being said, as I type, I'm still completely in the dark as to what to check next. Maybe I should start with finding out what a 'bulkhead connector' is. You'd think after doing an average of one simple check every few days I've have it by now. All I know is, I was driving it I stopped at the oil changing place. Turned the car off. Went to start it again and it started but ran rough for about 3 seconds and sputtered to a stop. Tried to start it again, it sort of started for a few seconds, sputtered to stop. It did that one more time and after that it refused to start at all, it just cranked. Full tank of gas but acted like it was out of gas and there was no pressure at the fuel rail. What would cause it to need reprogramming just like that? You'd that would happen after working on it somehow. Thanks

 

Well, it may not actually need reprogramming, so hold on.

Let's review. For reasons unknown, your fuel pump died at the oil change place. This was AFTER the oil change, right? The sputtering/no restart symptoms sound exactly like fuel starvation. Didn't you have a blown fuse? I vaguely remember hearing that, but heck if I can remember which thread mentioned this. In theory, the new fuel pump and fuse should have put you back in action, but now you've also got a security lockout, code 16.

So what happened? Why would a simple oil change cause such grief? I'm not sure about the V8, but on my V6, there's a branch of the wiring harness directly in the way of the oil filter. I have to move that harness to remove the filter. If your engine is similar, there's a very good chance something was disturbed in the process of the oil change.

I'd suggest putting your car up on jack stands and crawling underneath, as if you were the 16 year old kid who last changed your oil. Look to see if any wiring needs to be moved in the immediate vicinity of the filter. Follow the harness in both directions, looking for any external damage. Also follow the harness up to the firewall, looking for the mythical "bulkhead connector".

If this connector was jarred loose, even slightly, that could explain the security code 16. As best I can understand it, that means a communication problem between the instrument cluster and the PCM. The bulkhead connector is just a big connector where the harness passes through the firewall. Instead of running the wires directly through a grommet, a big connector is used instead. One side is fixed to the firewall. The other side is removable.

I sure wish you had previously mentioned the oil change. If indeed the problem started immediately after that, that could have pointed us where to look and saved a LOT of grief, not to mention some expensive tranquilizer darts.

 

I'm kind of thinking the same thing, I think the fact that it turns over means the key transponder is being recognised so that's good.
The main SCP connections seem to be at connector FC35 a white 22 way connector behind the glove box and the secondary junction box on the front bulkhead forward of A post left side. (this may be the one Bob was talking about)
It might be worth checking that all the plugs are seated in those.
The flowchart in post #67 is misleading as it's for 2002.5 MY when the CAN network was introduced.

You could try and test the global open function as it uses the SCP network.
Lock the car with the key then unlock it and hold the key in the unlock position, the doors should unlock and all the windows should open.

 

No, this was BEFORE the oil change. I just pulled into the lot, turned it off, went into the office came back out and that's when it all started to fail; one sluggish start for about 5 seconds, another for one or two and then no dice.

 

Thanks for ruining a great twist to the thread. I was already patting myself on the back...

I'm officially stumped. About all I can think of is to check the data bus connections between the PCM and instrument cluster. If good, you're probably looking at a dealer visit, or finding an independent shop with comparable equipment.

 

I keep hoping somebody will chime in with a good solid DIY-level fix for a code 16, but it doesn't seem like that's going to happen.

So I gets to thinking...

PATS (Passive Anti Theft System) is actually a Ford invention. Jaguar used it because of Ford's corporate ownership at the time. Our cars use the small red LED at the base of the windshield. Most Ford products of that era had a red "THEFT" or "ANTITHEFT" legend on the dashboard instead, but the general operation seems to be the same.

You may be able to find more helpful results if you run a full web search (not just this forum) for "PATS code 16", "Ford THEFT light flashing", "Ford ANTITHEFT light flashing", etc. You will find other hits if you substitute specific vehicle models such as "Mustang" or "F150" instead of the wide-reaching "Ford". Unfortunately, you will see a lot of people muddling through like we are, so not all the info is good, but maybe there's a gem hidden out there. I think there are different incarnations of PATS, so some stuff from different eras may not apply.

Also, be aware of the two main scenarios. In some cases, the system only shuts off the fuel pump and injectors, but lets the starter crank away. This, of course, is what you have. In other cases, the starter is also disabled. For best results, you probably want to find similar cases of the starter cranking away, but the red light (or legend) flashing so the engine won't actually start.

I'm pretty sure since the starter will engage, that means the car accepts your key as valid. Who knows though, so I may be less correct than usual.

One comment I saw several times was to make sure your key ring does not have any extra electronic items on it, such as a toll road pass card, parking garage card, garage door remote, etc. Supposedly anything with an RFID chip or similar can interfere with the normal security verification for the Jaguar key. I'm not sure this even applies, as the normal starter operation suggests the key has been accepted, but it's easy enough to quickly rule this out as a possibility.

Also, I saw several comments about water collecting in the PCM compartment. It may be worth investigating that, too.

 

I think your right about the key, Steve don't forget to try the global open test just to humour me.
Unfortunately the early wiring diagrams don't give any security sytem info the later ones do but the network was changed.
I saw some fuses mentioned when I was reading old threads yesterday, I don't remember which ones or what year the vehicles were.
I'll edit the thread title and see if we can lure someone in who might actually know something.

 

More thoughts of unknown value:

Look at figure 1.6 in the wiring diagrams. You will see two relays under the hood - Powertrain Control Relay #1 and (wait for it...) #2. These two relays feed ignition-switched power to the PCM. A failure of either one might explain the lack of communication between computer modules.

Do the click test on these two relays as you cycle the ignition switch on and off. This will confirm the internal electromagnet in each relay is working, and getting the proper signals to actuate.

If you can pop the covers off easily, look for arcing on the switch contacts.

It appears relays #10 (blower motor) and #13 (power wash relay) under the hood are the same type. If so, try swapping the two Powertrain Control Relays with these two and see what happens.

Also, does your odometer display the mileage with the key on, or just dashes? I keep seeing reference to just dashes confirming a communication failure.