OK- I give up- help! (CCM Monitor)
#1
OK- I give up- help! (CCM Monitor)
This month I am due for inspection. In Texas they allow one non continuous monitor to be in a not ready condition.
I have one monitor in a not ready position and that is the silly CCM Transmission monitor. That is a continuous (in theory). Otherwise everything is ready, no CEL. I had to disconnect my battery a month or so ago and had the P1111, now back to P1000 and CCM- incomplete
This is a 2005 S 3.0 with just 80k. I have zip/zero problems with the car currently (minus a need at some time to replace outer tire rods with a boot that has worn open- but clearly nothing that has the slightest issue/cause with the ODB II readiness test). The car runs more than fine- not the hint of any problem at all. Not even the "lurch" or the squawk are apparent.
I have used the Denso drive cycle, that has been listed on the forum,
I have used this one:
COMPREHENSIVE COMPONENT MONITOR TRANSMISSION DRIVE CYCLE
The Comprehensive Component Monitor transmission drive cycle will “check” all transmission system components.
1 Start engine.
2 Move transmission mode switch between Normal and Sport. Verify switch state illumination.
3 Move the gear selector to all positions in the J Gate for five (5) seconds each. Verify the state illumination in each position.
4 Drive vehicle to bring the transmission fluid temperature up to normal operating temperature.
5 Stop vehicle.
6 Switch off all heavy electrical consumers: air conditioning, heaters, etc.
7 Transmission mode switch – Normal.
8 Select 2nd Gear; accelerate slowly. After 5 seconds, select 3rd Gear; accelerate slowly. After 5 seconds, select 4th Gear; accelerate slowly. After 5 seconds,
select Drive; cruise at 72 km/h (45 mph) for 30 seconds.
9 Stop vehicle.
10 Use the J Gate to shift through all gears while accelerating briskly to 87 km/h (55 mph). Cruise at this speed to allow torque converter lockup to occur in fifth gear.
11 Stop vehicle and repeat steps 8 through 10.
No go
I have not yet tried the attached from jaguar that talks about the .020 and 0.40 inch evap tests and how the ccm readiness is tied to it.
Any help would be appreciated. If I read the attached correctly it appears that I need to drive several hours on half a tank of gas from a cold start, but that seems quite a bizarre way to set this CCM as ready and my ecm to P1111.
Thanks as always
Tom in Dallas/Plano
2005 S-Type 3.0 80k
and on this issue dumb I am not, but stupid I feel- ha!!
I have one monitor in a not ready position and that is the silly CCM Transmission monitor. That is a continuous (in theory). Otherwise everything is ready, no CEL. I had to disconnect my battery a month or so ago and had the P1111, now back to P1000 and CCM- incomplete
This is a 2005 S 3.0 with just 80k. I have zip/zero problems with the car currently (minus a need at some time to replace outer tire rods with a boot that has worn open- but clearly nothing that has the slightest issue/cause with the ODB II readiness test). The car runs more than fine- not the hint of any problem at all. Not even the "lurch" or the squawk are apparent.
I have used the Denso drive cycle, that has been listed on the forum,
I have used this one:
COMPREHENSIVE COMPONENT MONITOR TRANSMISSION DRIVE CYCLE
The Comprehensive Component Monitor transmission drive cycle will “check” all transmission system components.
1 Start engine.
2 Move transmission mode switch between Normal and Sport. Verify switch state illumination.
3 Move the gear selector to all positions in the J Gate for five (5) seconds each. Verify the state illumination in each position.
4 Drive vehicle to bring the transmission fluid temperature up to normal operating temperature.
5 Stop vehicle.
6 Switch off all heavy electrical consumers: air conditioning, heaters, etc.
7 Transmission mode switch – Normal.
8 Select 2nd Gear; accelerate slowly. After 5 seconds, select 3rd Gear; accelerate slowly. After 5 seconds, select 4th Gear; accelerate slowly. After 5 seconds,
select Drive; cruise at 72 km/h (45 mph) for 30 seconds.
9 Stop vehicle.
10 Use the J Gate to shift through all gears while accelerating briskly to 87 km/h (55 mph). Cruise at this speed to allow torque converter lockup to occur in fifth gear.
11 Stop vehicle and repeat steps 8 through 10.
No go
I have not yet tried the attached from jaguar that talks about the .020 and 0.40 inch evap tests and how the ccm readiness is tied to it.
Any help would be appreciated. If I read the attached correctly it appears that I need to drive several hours on half a tank of gas from a cold start, but that seems quite a bizarre way to set this CCM as ready and my ecm to P1111.
Thanks as always
Tom in Dallas/Plano
2005 S-Type 3.0 80k
and on this issue dumb I am not, but stupid I feel- ha!!
#2
I have fought this same thing. Some cars just complete the readiness monitors faster than others. I have also followed several drive cycle instructions and finally found just putting on more miles seemed to work the best.
My 2005 STR gets to P1111 very quickly but my wife's 2003 Lincoln LS takes several weeks to get there.
.
.
.
My 2005 STR gets to P1111 very quickly but my wife's 2003 Lincoln LS takes several weeks to get there.
.
.
.
The following users liked this post:
jazzwineman (01-05-2015)
#3
Solved CCM and Drive Cycle
Got to P1111 today by doing exactly what the TSB from Jag suggested. Started car, idled for 15 minutes drove at 55 for 2 minutes, stopped and idled for 2 minutes. Did it again and then ran through the Denso suggested CCM transmission cycle and it set to P1111. Both are attached as .pdf.
I never let my gas get low and hardly ever idle 15 minutes before I start to go anywhere and certainly never shift my car as suggested- but that combination worked and I am where I need to be.
Thanks
Tom
I never let my gas get low and hardly ever idle 15 minutes before I start to go anywhere and certainly never shift my car as suggested- but that combination worked and I am where I need to be.
Thanks
Tom
#4
Very interesting.
I read that jag letter ages ago and thought "never heard anyone actually needing to follow that!" - well, you're the first I recall having to do so but as faults occur and repairs are done / batteries changed maybe others wil find your posts vital.
It may be that most people live where that monitor is allowed to be unset or (like me) monitors are not even checked - just the MIL.
I read that jag letter ages ago and thought "never heard anyone actually needing to follow that!" - well, you're the first I recall having to do so but as faults occur and repairs are done / batteries changed maybe others wil find your posts vital.
It may be that most people live where that monitor is allowed to be unset or (like me) monitors are not even checked - just the MIL.
#5
Very interesting.
I read that jag letter ages ago and thought "never heard anyone actually needing to follow that!" - well, you're the first I recall having to do so but as faults occur and repairs are done / batteries changed maybe others wil find your posts vital.
It may be that most people live where that monitor is allowed to be unset or (like me) monitors are not even checked - just the MIL.
I read that jag letter ages ago and thought "never heard anyone actually needing to follow that!" - well, you're the first I recall having to do so but as faults occur and repairs are done / batteries changed maybe others wil find your posts vital.
It may be that most people live where that monitor is allowed to be unset or (like me) monitors are not even checked - just the MIL.
Jag did this in a bizarre way and instead of reprogramming - the give a false positive. They show the 'Evap" being ready when it has only completed one of the 2 tests it runs: the 0.020 and .0.40 inch leak check monitor as being complete when only the the 0.040 test is done. Due tio the CCM being tied to it, you are given no clue that the "Evap" still has another test
(0.020 inch leak) to run.
From a software and engineering view this is an incredibly stupid way to program a module. If it needs both tests done to "really" be complete ("Ready") then adjust the ODB II to reflect that and it is no more difficult to write into the code than anything else, except for lazy programmers. No excuse.
But such is life!
I hope someone else will see this that is having the trouble and it is not limited to just S-Types, but X, XJ and XK in the periods of 2002-2007 (generally)
Thumbs up for the day
Tom in Dallas/Plano
2005 S-Type 3.0 80k and (a P1111 !!)
The following 2 users liked this post by jazzwineman:
joycesjag (01-07-2015),
S-Type Owner (10-06-2018)
#6
Trending Topics
#8
#10
Thank you the TSB from jag worked!!
Got to P1111 today by doing exactly what the TSB from Jag suggested. Started car, idled for 15 minutes drove at 55 for 2 minutes, stopped and idled for 2 minutes. Did it again and then ran through the Denso suggested CCM transmission cycle and it set to P1111. Both are attached as .pdf.
I never let my gas get low and hardly ever idle 15 minutes before I start to go anywhere and certainly never shift my car as suggested- but that combination worked and I am where I need to be.
Thanks
Tom
I never let my gas get low and hardly ever idle 15 minutes before I start to go anywhere and certainly never shift my car as suggested- but that combination worked and I am where I need to be.
Thanks
Tom
#11
Same anomaly I have in my car 05 S 3.0. I will throw every year since 2008 p1646 and 1647 (telling me the H02 sensor has a problem) only when the temp. of the city reaches 98 or above. It will happen after I drive the car on the highway and only occasionally when sitting at idle at a stoplight and then move forward. Five starts later the CEL and the confirmed code actually disappear from memory (strange). The heated part of the 02 sensor is used to equalize temps in starting. It has zero usage when the car has been driven 50 miles and you are sitting at idle- so why go run a test of it. I have no short, The 02 sensors have been changed and still I get it at those temps. (Nine months out of the year- never see the same problem under tha exact same driving situation from the exact same points.
Thanks for hearing out the rant!
TBB
#13
To avoid unnecessary complexity, a single comprehensive engine management drive cycle has not developed for
X-TYPE. Refer to the individual DTC for specific drive cycle / monitoring conditions.
Which apparently means going through the DTC's
for the Evap and figuring out what sets off a DTC since you don't currently have a DTC or CEL (really stupid- yes)
So I can only refer you to the attached from Jag. Here is a page for DTC summaries on the 2002 X-type. I assume they are pretty close you yours. There also ,may be one for your year on the site, but I did not search for it. Jagrepair.com did not have one either.
http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/cr...1410_XTYPE.pdf
TBB
#14
Thanks for the help I'm gonna give this a try. Just to clarify should I follow all the driving cycles (O2, adaptive fuel, misfire, etc...) or just the evap cycle and ccm transmission? Just want to make sure. It's not that I don't want to do all the cycles it's just more that I want to do exactly as you say so I can fix this as quickly as possible.
Thanks again for the help. Basically hit a wall here and not sure what to do.
Thanks again for the help. Basically hit a wall here and not sure what to do.
Last edited by jignac; 11-08-2021 at 10:04 AM.
#15
TBB
#16
Yes my evap is complete.
Sorry if I was not clear, I was asking if I need to follow the other procedures or drive cycles for the other monitors such as the drive cycle for oxygen, misfire, catalyst efficiency...
or,
Are you telling me to do the evap monitor drive cycle followed by COMPREHENSIVE COMPONENT MONITOR TRANSMISSION DRIVE CYCLE.
(apologies I'm new to this)
Sorry if I was not clear, I was asking if I need to follow the other procedures or drive cycles for the other monitors such as the drive cycle for oxygen, misfire, catalyst efficiency...
or,
Are you telling me to do the evap monitor drive cycle followed by COMPREHENSIVE COMPONENT MONITOR TRANSMISSION DRIVE CYCLE.
(apologies I'm new to this)
#17
#19
The you are going to have to do the combo of the Denso and the Jag TCB drive cycles until it sets. Mine does it at weird times, but the best result has been coasting to a stop after about 20 minutes of about 65 mph miles per hour. making the stop. Sit by the clock timer on my phone for 3 minutes, turn the car off, then back on and then drive a few miles more and repeat the same idle test. Just have patience unless you are showing a pending code for some other problem that could prevent the monitor from setting. But if you show the Evap has set, that means it can run the test.
TBB
TBB
#20