Good luck, but be patient.

T

 

there’s a manual over on jagrepair.com it tells you what the criteria is for certain lean codes and I think those numbers you just posted would throw some codes if all the other entry conditions are correct

 

Mine have always hung around those numbers. Most of the time a little closer to 2.5. Only time I have had a lean code was early on when i got the car and had a very caked up with carbon MAF. Cleaning that solved the problem. The last time I had to be at +20 before I got a lean code due to a common hole in the corner of the resonator. Of course he did not do or say he did the 2500 rpm to idle test, but we will try and get to that point at the next response.


TBB

 

I may have misspoke. I just went and looked and the threshold value was for the sub feedback trim value as shown below. In any event it’s good to know what the criteria is that will flag it code so you can see what you need to look at


heres the manual I was looking at.

 

lets see if this will upload

 

This one is almost the same but has a bit more info (also re-paginated so don't be fooled by the page count).

 

so I was unsuccessful in my first attempt at jazzwines method and I decided to swing by my buddy’s shop who has a fancier scanner and found all sorts of codes that weren’t showing up on my cheap scanner.



I’m doing this from my
phone so hopefully the pics upload ok and aren’t too huge. Should I bother chasing these rabbit holes or just try to retire the car for $1500 CA gives for junkers?

 

If you notice I started this whole thread some years ago as I have the same results that you did. However I drove it enough and id my stops and it eventually set. That is why I said to have patience. Ignore the ones about the HVAC (we probably have those on every S-type) Ignore about the flight recorder data.https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...e-safe-204456/. The HVAC low voltage is probably related to the P2503 and that would be one I would circle into. There are thousands of pages of posts on the site about what low voltage will cause in these cars. Somebody must have had this exact code and how to fix, but it could be a simple thing like a new battery or alternator where the voltage regulator is acting up and that can cause problems with the PCM making accurate reads. Have you checked the voltage of the battery when cold and while the car is running. Apparently something is causing it to be out of range and I would assume to the low side. Easy check with a multi-meter.

Tom

 

I'd ignore HVAC etc. My car has all sorts of logged codes in lots of modules and they just don't matter in terms of setting P1111.

I'd take the TSB/letter as #1.

But... things that stop a monitor generally include:

1. not running CL (closed loop, should be say 30 secs from cold engine, much faster if warm)

2. some (powertrain-related) wacky thing - check any sensor you vaguely understand via OBD (e.g. IAT, ECT)

3. possibly bad fuel trims might be a problem - avoid them regardless, you want a healthy engine

4. maybe pending codes (other than P1000, P1111) could be a problem but be aware vast numbers can't flag if a monitor hasn't set - yes, Catch-22

The big (2013, 144-pages) OBD PDF is the best if you have codes, I think. Typically goes by name along the lines of AJ3X_AJ6X_AJ8X_EMS_OBDII_2013.pdf aka JLR 20 90 18_3E

 

Yes. The technician that had the better scanner should have turned to live data and looked at the fuel trims. That could tell much. They also could have in less than about 90 seconds checked on the voltage from the alternator and battery. and could have probably read it from the scanner.

TBB

 

Thanks Tom, I checked with my multimeter and the battery shows 12.35 when off and about 14.5 when running so that seems pretty normal right? I have an extra TCM I haven't tested yet do you think that's worth a shot or just keep trying to drive it as is.

 

That sounds reasonable although I think the desired voltage when off is like 13.2, but someone can chime in and tell us exactly. The 14.5 when running seems fine. Do you think you have any problems with the TCM. If you had serious ones, then you would have a yellow "gearbox failure" show up on the dash. I would combine the Denso and the Jag suggested cycles the next time, starting with the first part of sitting and running through the gears. Also take note about the coasting.. But bear in mind what is said about your car: (COMPREHENSIVE COMPONENT MONITOR ENGINE MANAGEMENT DRIVE CYCLE
To avoid unnecessary complexity, a single comprehensive engine management drive cycle has not developed for
X-TYPE. Refer to the individual DTC for specific drive cycle / monitoring conditions.)
-----------------
EVAPORATIVE SYSTEM MONITOR DRIVE CYCLE
1. Ensure that fuel filler cap is fully closed (minimum three clicks).
2. Fuel level > 30% and < 85%.
3. Using WDS, perform ECM DTC Clear (even if no DTCs are flagged).
4. Drive vehicle for a minimum of 2 minutes, and until engine is at normal operating temperature.
5. Using WDS, ensure that the EVAP Canister Purge Valve is operating by observing “PURGE VAPOR
MANAGEMENT VALVE – DUTY CYCLE”. If the valve is not active, ECM adaptions have not been learned.
Conduct a “green ECM” Drive Cycle as described in Technical Service Bulletin.
6. Drive vehicle to the road where the EVAP System Drive Cycle will be conducted. Stop vehicle and switch
OFF the ignition. Leave ignition OFF for 30 seconds, and then restart the engine.
7. Accelerate briskly to 80 km/h (50 mph) ensuring that the engine speed reaches a minimum of 3500 rpm for a
minimum of 5 seconds.
8. (0.040-inch EVAP Test) View WDS “PURGE VAPOR MANAGEMENT VALVE – DUTY CYCLE”, “CANISTER
CLOSE VALVE – VAPOR RECOVERY SYSTEM”, and FUEL TANK PRESSURE – VAPOR RECOVERY
SYSTEM”. Avoiding high engine loads, drive the vehicle steadily between 65 km/h (40 mph) and 100 km/h
(60 mph). Avoid driving conditions that will produce excessive fuel movement. WDS should give an indication
that the test is active (it may take up to 30 minutes before the test will initialize). When the test has initialized
(EVAP Canister Close Valve CLOSED), it will take approximately 90 seconds for the test to complete.
9. (0.020-inch EVAP Test) Continue driving vehicle as explained in Step 8 for an additional 10 minutes.
10. Gently coast the vehicle to a stop. Allow the engine to idle for 2 minutes and view WDS “PURGE VAPOR
MANAGEMENT VALVE – DUTY CYCLE”, “CANISTER CLOSE VALVE – VAPOR RECOVERY SYSTEM”,
and FUEL TANK PRESSURE – VAPOR RECOVERY SYSTEM”. WDS should give an indication that the test
is active. When the test has initialized (EVAP Canister Close Valve CLOSED), it will take approximately 90
seconds for the test to complete.
11. If the 0.020-inch EVAP Test is not activated, the purge system vapor concentration may be too great. To
reduce the vapor concentration proceed as follows:
12. Drive the vehicle for an additional 30 minutes avoiding driving conditions that will produce excessive fuel
movement. Repeat Step 10. If the 0.020-inch EVAP Test is still not activated, repeat the Drive Cycle from
Step 6.
13. Using WDS, check for and clear flagged DTCs.

_______________

COMPREHENSIVE COMPONENT MONITOR TRANSMISSION DRIVE CYCLE
The Comprehensive Component Monitor transmission drive cycle will “check” all transmission system
components:
1. Engine and transmission at normal operating temperature. Ignition OFF; ensure that SPORT mode is NOT
selected.
2. With gear selector in P and the ignition ON. Check gearshift interlock by attempting to move selector without
pressing the brake pedal. Verify P state illumination.
3. Press and hold the brake pedal. Move the gear selector to R. Verify R state illumination.
4. Set the parking brake. Press and hold the brake pedal. Attempt to start the engine. The engine should not
start.
5. Move the gear selector to N. Verify N state illumination. Start the engine.
6. With the hand brake set and the brake pedal pressed, move the gear selector to the remaining positions in
the J-Gate (D, 4, 3, 2) for five (5) seconds each. Verify the state illumination in each position.
7. Move the gear selector back to 4. Verify 4 state illumination.
8. Move the gear selector to D. Verify D state illumination.
9. Move the gear selector to N. Verify N state illumination.
10. Select R, release the brakes and drive the vehicle in Reverse for a short distance.
11. Stop the vehicle.
12. Select 2 and drive the vehicle up to 65 km/h (40 mph). Hold 65 km/h (40 mph) for a minimum of five (5)
seconds.
13. Select 3 and hold 65 km/h (40 mph) for a minimum of five (5) seconds.
14. Select 4 and hold 65 km/h (40 mph) for a minimum of five (5) seconds.
15. Select D and accelerate to a minimum speed of 80 km/h (50 mph). Hold 80 – 129 km
minimum of 1.7 kilometers (1 mile).
16. Stop the vehicle; do not switch OFF the engine.
17. Use WDS Datalogger “TOTAL NUMBER OF DTC SET” to ensure that transmission DTC monitoring is
complete.

TBB

 

A fully 100% charged automotive 12 V battery should measure 12.6 v. At 12.4 v you’re at about 75% battery charge

 

Threw the other tcm in and immediately got gearbox code and car wouldn’t really engage in drive, so much for that easy fix!

 

Get your battery up to at least 12.6v with the ignition off. Else its considered low