AND???? Is there any sign of a problem?

 

impellers look intact as i said earlier but the pump has too much movement.
Going by post #28 “If you feel any movement, the bearing has failed and the water pump must be replaced.” - kr98664

 

That might well be, but it still works. You can thus remove the water pump as a suspect for your overheating.

 

Your old pump is toast. The bearing has failed. Replace the pump assembly.

So far, all we know is you've found A problem. We do not know if you've found THE problem(s) responsible for the overheating. There is the possibility the pump is binding when the side load from the drive belt is applied. That might explain the unaddressed squealing, and could mean the pump was barely turning. In addition to replacing the pump, change the drive belt, too, as it is likely damaged.

All you can do for now is fix the known problem (sloppy water pump) and then (Putting on my Mr. Rogers outfit so I can convey this In the kindest, gentlest manner possible) do some basic troubleshooting. Sorry, but this thread has played out like a train wreck. It's like binge watching "Mama June stops at the Crack House on the Way to Rehab". Entertaining, yes, but you know it's not going to end well.

Virtually no troubleshooting has been done, and we've implored you to do just that. Next thing we know, you've got the radiator out. Maybe you've got a blown head gasket, who knows. Maybe it's as simple as a bad thermostat or defective pressure cap. If you're lucky, it was that defective water pump binding and barely turning. It's all just expensive guesswork without some preliminary diagnostic work. Stop digging deeper. Put down the shovel. Figure out where you're going.

At some point, you'll have to put it all back together. As previously suggested, get an infrared thermometer. Check the actual temperature at the thermostat housing. Connect a cooling system pressure tester and make sure the system is intact. Test the cap, too. Get a test kit to check for combustion gases in the cooling system, indicative of a blown head gasket. Some parts stores have a free tool loaner program. None of this will cost you a dime.

Fingers crossed the pump was binding and not moving coolant. If the fault continues, please figure out why, unless you're independently wealthy and enjoy firing the parts catapult.

 

i got everything puttin back in just about in, i tested the Aux water pump with power and it is dead. no power, it’s corroded and the connection on power had some green on there. looks to be bad. is it a important vital thing? if so i’ll order one. new one is about $70

 

+1 on what Karl suggests in post 44 above.

Yes, the auxiliary pump is required to keep the coolant moving properly through the system and to have the heating system function correctly. If the connector is corroded, clean the connector and test the circuit back to the fuse if possible. If there's no voltage at the connector, check the wire loom for damage or corrosion to other parts. If you still have no power to the connector, perform a pin test.

 

i have direct power to the pump but there is corrosion on the pump and the pump connecter pins itself. the pump is shot i think if i put direct power (12volts) nothing happens

 

The question is, would a bad aux pump cause overheating?

 

Yes

 

hi
aux pump will not cause overheating
aux pump is solely for heater, when at idle you get poor heater flow, aux pump eliminates this
it will be head gasket

 

looks like i will mark this off my list then

 

I would mark it ON my list. Of items to be replaced!
The pump is there for a reason. If it does not work, it should be fixed/replaced!
Your attitude to car repair, seems a bit haphazard.
Even if a lacking electrical pump does not directly cause an overheat situation, it is not inconceivable that it will assist in removing air in the system.
I am only guessing here, but you can be absolutely sure, the pump is there for a reason.

I think you should just replace all faulty items one by one as you get to them.
That seems the logical way to go.

 

Okay thank you! this is the answer i was looking for, i’ll get to this and change it asap

 

Question. Could I have a bad headgasket but not lose no coolant at all?

 

Yes you can. But very rare, eg. where there is a breach between two siamesed bores and no water jacket between.
I am not sure why you ask. I think chances are exactly the opposite in your case. You might be losing coolant, because there is a breach of sealing between your cylinder and the cooling system, which allows combustion gases into the cooling jacket. The pressure is many times higher than the normal cooling system pressure, and forces coolant out through the pressure cap. This will be worst on a hot engine with wide open throttle. Because the clamping force reduces with hot bolts stretching with heat, and because the combustion pressure increases with load. That explains why you can ***** foot a car around on a short trip, but get into trouble when the going gets heavier.

 

actually other way around i can wide open/ half throttle everywhere be fine but when im just cruising the temp gauge goes up

 

Well the moment everyone including me was waiting for infrared thermometer checking, andddd its not overheating. The temp gauge was dead at red and we were not not where near overheating, the car was gone for a 5 or so mile drive we come back and check the temps and here what it is, one of them showing the temp on the heads. thoughts?

 

I may have missed it but did you check for combustion gasses in the coolant?
I don't think you have head gasket problems but with multiple things wrong it would be useful to rule out.

You did replace the water pump but did you replace the AUX pump?
.
.
.

 

Trying to decipher exactly what you've got. Your dash gauge was pegged high, but the hottest your bitchin' infrared thermometer showed was 174F. Is that correct? Did one of the other pics show a reading at the thermostat housing? That's going to be the closed indication of actual coolant temperature.

But if I'm reading your mind correctly, nothing over 174F yet your dash gauge is pegged. I'd say it's time for a new temperature sensor.

 

I’ve check the thermostat housing im dead at 137°F on the thermostat portion. I changed the sensor, i’m thinking wiring/computer problem?