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Question about windshield, ignition Cylinder and head light bulb
Hi Guys. Happy new Year!!!!
I have some Questions to Ask
1- As i change the PCM, the Cluster, ignition cylinder and key because of the damaged pcm i had, the pack came with just one key so i want to install again the original ignition cylinder back and reprogram the two original keys that came with the car, i know that i will need to leave the key reader that came with the pack with the cylinder and just change ignition cylinder. Question: can this be done without problems? (security system kickin on) there's 99% of me that knows that this can be done, but there's a 1% of me afraid as Jaguars are like a pandora box (full of surprises lol). If i leave it as it is right now i will need to make a copy of the key ($$$ That i need to continue with the restoration) and reprogram them both, if i change the cylinder i alredy have the two keys just need to reprogram them again (less money to spend)
2- My windshield is cracked, i will need to change it but it has a sensor on it right behind the backup mirror.
A- If i change the windshiel do i need to reprogram the new sensor that will come with the new windshield or is it plug and play?
B- Can i uninstall the sensor that i have right now and reinstall it on the new windshield?
3- There's a little bulb in both low headlamps, when i turn on the low ligh and fog light that little bulb turns on (Green circle) that's normal (left side lamps not working)
Turn on low and high light, fog lights turn off and little bulb still on (green circle) still normal
when i turn all lights off, the little bulb on the green circle turns off too but the one on the red circle stays on and does not shut off unless i disconect the battery.
I don't know if this is linked to the security system and the fob, right now i don't have any fob linked to the car (i will do this at the same time i do the things on question 1). Don't know if both bulbs should shut off when i lock the car with the fob and they stay on if i don't unlock the car with the fob, but still one shut off and the other stays on. Any idea?
Instead of changing all the security modules, why dont you just reprogram the new pcm to the car?
(btw did door module is part of the chain)
is it the rain sensor?
if yes, just use the one that comes with the new screen. If it doesnt work well, you can put the old sensor there. It has a special gel glue. I didn't even glue mine. I just took it off and came off with yhe gel, then i just stuck it to the screen.
those are parking lights. Access them on top of the headlights. When lights are on, they are supposed to be on.
these cars had been provided halogen regular bulbs and when you put leds there and switch off the car, the electrical system is still alive for like an hour, and you can see them glow, cause leds are using very little energy, so whats left, is visible.
now the green led isnt glowing because it's most likely broken and has formed an electrical resistance on its circuit and eats the energy..
Put new w5w halogens or leds. I personally use leds cause i like the modern look
Last edited by elDariusVargas; Jan 6, 2023 at 06:50 AM.
Instead of changing all the security modules, why dont you just reprogram the new pcm to the car?
(btw did door module is part of the chain)
No, door module was not part of the chain.
My car is a 2001 model and PCM isn't reprogramable for that year model.
The original PCM was damaged, i had to change everything because of that, car is now working but i only have one key, that's why i want to change only the old ignition cylinder back and reprogram the two old keys. but i'm afraid the security system kicks in
Originally Posted by elDariusVargas
is it the rain sensor?
if yes, just use the one that comes with the new screen. If it doesnt work well, you can put the old sensor there. It has a special gel glue. I didn't even glue mine. I just took it off and came off with yhe gel, then i just stuck it to the screen.
Yes, the rain sensor. thanks for the info
Originally Posted by elDariusVargas
those are parking lights. Access them on top of the headlights. When lights are on, they are supposed to be on.
these cars had been provided halogen regular bulbs and when you put leds there and switch off the car, the electrical system is still alive for like an hour, and you can see them glow, cause leds are using very little energy, so whats left, is visible.
now the green led isnt glowing because it's most likely broken and has formed an electrical resistance on its circuit and eats the energy..
Put new w5w halogens or leds. I personally use leds cause i like the modern look
I will check them to see if they are LEDs, makes sense what you are telling me and the blue ligh in them give it away. From what i remember my dad didn't change any bulbs to LED, just high and low bulbs to xenon, so this will surprise me if he did change those parking bulbs to LED
No, door module was not part of the chain.
My car is a 2001 model and PCM isn't reprogramable for that year model.
The original PCM was damaged, i had to change everything because of that, car is now working but i only have one key, that's why i want to change only the old ignition cylinder back and reprogram the two old keys. but i'm afraid the security system kicks in
Yes, the rain sensor. thanks for the info
I will check them to see if they are LEDs, makes sense what you are telling me and the blue ligh in them give it away. From what i remember my dad didn't change any bulbs to LED, just high and low bulbs to xenon, so this will surprise me if he did change those parking bulbs to LED
Thanks, let you know later
i gave the 2003, in my case the immobilizer was cloned in my 'new' sh ecu
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1dWq...4H&ts=63b84dd1. This tsb shows how to get the key barrel out and back in. I have done this myself. You still have to get the ignition switch out to work with. Is your ignition switch in the column or dash. Dash is harder but i know a shortcut
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1dWq...4H&ts=63b84dd1. This tsb shows how to get the key barrel out and back in. I have done this myself. You still have to get the ignition switch out to work with. Is your ignition switch in the column or dash. Dash is harder but i know a shortcut
the easy way to get the switch free is remove the lower cowl cover on the column. Then reach your hand in there on the top of the ignition switch and pull down sharply to release it from the clips. From there you can wiggle it out enough to unplug the big eletrical connector. Then you can bring it out some more and follow the tsb. No need to mess with the interlock cable. Oh yeah. Disconnect the neg battery cable and gently remove the plastic cover ring around the switch. When you reinstall the switch get it oriented with the key slot vertical. You will feel the bottom line up with the holding tabs and the snap it in at the top. It will only go in one way
I might have missed this but do you have an r model. I ask because if not the only eletric coolant pump is for the extra ooomph for the heater. I found it. You have a 6 cylinder so the t stat should be changed i think. NBcat and Karl have similar models that i know of. And joycesjag i believe also
well, they are defenitly LED bulbs, change them from there original position and the "problem" follows the bulb, so, the bulb that was shutting off is not working as @eldariusvargas mention. i see that the contacts of the bulb are a bit dirty, don't know if that makes a diference but i will clean it and see what happens, if the problem is the same i will change them.
While i was checking that bulb, i try to find if there was something disconnet from the low and high Xenon light (everything looks normal) i moved both bulbs trying to take them out and the chrome reflective part inside both headlamps moved as they where loose or broken. is that normal?
the easy way to get the switch free is remove the lower cowl cover on the column. Then reach your hand in there on the top of the ignition switch and pull down sharply to release it from the clips. From there you can wiggle it out enough to unplug the big eletrical connector. Then you can bring it out some more and follow the tsb. No need to mess with the interlock cable. Oh yeah. Disconnect the neg battery cable and gently remove the plastic cover ring around the switch. When you reinstall the switch get it oriented with the key slot vertical. You will feel the bottomline up with the holding tabs and the snap it in at the top. It will only go in one way
I was practicing taking the key barriel out and in with the one i want to put back in the car (the original one), and i notice that there's a tab (photo stolen from ebay, see red circle) and seems like this part is not hold by clips, i think there's a screw that goes in that tab and hold it in position, correct me if i'm wrong. wanted to check it this weekend but had an emergency with my dog.
Originally Posted by scottjh9
I might have missed this but do you have an r model. I ask because if not the only eletric coolant pump is for the extra ooomph for the heater. I found it. You have a 6 cylinder so the t stat should be changed i think. NBcat and Karl have similar models that i know of. And joycesjag i believe also
Lost in this part, don't know if this was meant to be for another thread
No. Your first post of the thread did not mention car model where it is usually is so i asked because the r model has an intercooler pump that cools the intake charge coolers. Anyway i read down further after i posted this and found your model and year. Your ignition switch comes out different than mine i guess. The barrel release procedure should be the same. Sorry for any confusion
Any bulb that has black like yours does is due for replacement!
That bulb has many,many hours on it to turn the glass black like that.
.
.
.
No the glass isn't black as it seems in the first photo, the glass of that bulb is like a magnifier and what you see as burn is a shadow reflecting in the tip of the bulb. but still i will change both
Weard thing happen yesterday, i was changing the horn (bought an used original horn and install it, no more killing duck sound lol and fuse #4 burned changed), after i finish i took the car for a ride around the block, as it was going to rain i wanted to try the automatic lights and rain sensors (i prefer using this automatic as i do in my ford escape). as everyone can see in the pictures of the first post i have the left side of the headlamps not working when i turn the lights normally, but yesterday when i put them in Automatic low beams in both sides worked. Any idea why when i turn the lights normal only right side turns on, but when i put them in automatic both side work (low beams for now, as it started to rain heavier and didn't tryed the high one)
And also this from another post in this thread.
"While i was checking that bulb, i try to find if there was something disconnet from the low and high Xenon light (everything looks normal) i moved both bulbs trying to take them out and the chrome reflective part inside both headlamps moved as they where loose or broken. is that normal?"
after i finish i took the car for a ride around the block, as it was going to rain i wanted to try the automatic lights and rain sensors (i prefer using this automatic as i do in my ford escape). as everyone can see in the pictures of the first post i have the left side of the headlamps not working when i turn the lights normally, but yesterday when i put them in Automatic low beams in both sides worked. Any idea why when i turn the lights normal only right side turns on, but when i put them in automatic both side work (low beams for now, as it started to rain heavier and didn't tryed the high one)
bacá to 0 again in this part, today I went to check if the left high beam also work in the automatic mode, instead got no left side lights as in the first post photo.
get some new 4d60 blank chips put them in the keys you want. put your old lock cylinder in and program them into the cluster with thinkdiag diagzone launch topdon same ****.
on that year can he use the stalk pulling method for keys or is that just the fob