+1
my car's lights shut off at some point (can't say I've stood and watched exactly when).

 

Hi Guys, I haven't been off the case.. but it has taken a while to tie things down.. OK, each weekend we do around 50 miles and then our S-Type is parked up until next weekend - sometimes more.

Last Friday drove to Croydon and back on a freshly charged battery and it died just as we got home (approx 30 miles) which told me it has been running purely on battery power every week its not a discharging whilst parked issue.

Took her to my local garage - Formula One and whilst they tested the alternator for me were for once quite unfriendly - they checked it and said it is producing 9V and then had no interest, no recommended repairers or anything.

So I had a chat with the MOT inspector and he has suggested a repair shop out the back of Gatwick - so I will have a chat with them on Monday and see what can be done...

 

So that's another auto centre that bites the dust for business then.
Quite easy to check alternator output, fully charge the battery, let it stand overnight, measure the voltage before you start the car, then start the car, put a multimeter across the battery terminals, read the meter.
It should be 13.7 volts minimum with the engine running.
Then switch on the lights, heater, front and rear fog lights, rear demister, and front if fitted, and note the voltage at the meter.
The voltage present at the meter should be stable.
If there is no difference between the meter readings before you started the car and after, then the alternator is shot and needs replacing.

A freshly charged battery should show 12.6/7/8 volts when it comes off the charger, when you check it the following day before fitting it to the car, if the voltage has dropped significantly, say below 12 volts, then possibly you have a dead cell in there.
So you could have two things going on here maybe. A dead or dying battery and/or a bad alternator.
I'd start with a freshly charged battery and go from there.

 

I have always supported my local Formula One but thios particular visit riled me..They were very efficient with the testing, but where the 2.7 is known to be smoky initially in the cabin etc due to the preburner the mechanic commented there had to be an exhaust issue, and in his words the engine compartment is just too full to be able to access the alternator and could not or would not recommend a repair shop that specialises in this sort of work. Thankfully the MOT inspector helped out with a recommendation, which I will follow up today.

When the battery first went flat I brought a new battery, assuming that it was just an old battery.. but have found since that both the old battery and new charge fine so I now have a spare - not quite the plan but hey :-)

I had also noticed that the sat nav screen was starting to get hum bars, and then the trip to Croydon and back leading to almost complete electrical failure close to home - so had become pretty sure the alternator wasnt doing what it should.

Hence my trip to my usual garage - and them confirming it was just producing 9V.

I will let you know how things go - I am ideally looking for my existing alternator to be repaired or a refurb unit as the cost of new is around £350-£500 which would be really, really pushing my budget in January :-(

 

[QUOTE=SteveSheldon;1829645] in his words the engine compartment is just too full to be able to access the alternator

Sounds a bit fluffy to me that comment by them.
You would have the engine off and the bonnet open to access the alternator, so no fumes are being given off by the exhaust, regardless of any leaks.
Sounds like they just didn't want the job.
Fully charge your battery and do your own test across the battery terminals before condemning the alternator completely.
There are places out there that re-furb customers own parts, worth a search BUT ->

Here's a little to save on your budget:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/JAGUAR-S-...AAAOSwGvhT60Jg

 

Yours has apparently not had the fix, if you mean fumes due to the FBH (fuel burning heater).

(You could always disable it prior to an MoT if you'd rather leave it be - e.g. pull its fuse.)

 

Blah.. lol.. I am just waiting on the recommended contact to get back to me with a quote for this. I have checked the battery voltage with engine off and when running and the battery terminals are sitting at almost 12V, both new and old batteries no matter what :-) Your ebay link is a lot cheaper than the prices I saw - thankyou for that.. I appreciate it.

As for the fuel burning heater - I am used to it, and commented to the mechanic that it's normal and known but he was insistent it was a pipe issue somewhere.. as I said they were very efficient in diagnosis but the feeling of customer support just was not there - more a feeling of what was I doing there at all. Oh well, at least I now know - my older Jags were welcome there as easier to work on I guess.

 

It actually is a pipe issue - and isn't a big deal to fix I understand.

It's been covered before (probably on that other, largely UK, site) so you can read about it.

 

Thats got my attention.. I had just accepted it as it has always been that way, and there has been quite a few threads saying it is normal..

In the meanwhile I am shopping around repairers shops ref the alternator - and my first quote is £168 labour plus parts - I could order in an alternator (hoping I get the right one) or he can supply for £470 or I can get him to send my alternator off for repair/refurbishment.. which would be the cheaper option but a little open ended depending on what needs replacing on it. I am waiting on two other companies to quote today as well.. and will then know a bit more..

 

I suppose it's normal for those cars which have not had the fix...

 

OK, I have taken the plunge - I checked the reg number with the supplier and the one SteveP10 suggested (thankyou for that :-)) is the right one as far as they can tell so I have ordered it today, and booked the mechanic recommended by the MOT inspector to fit it for £169 next Tuesday - all well below the cost of just the part alone if going for one of the main alternator manufacturers.

I decided against reconditioning my original one as the cost may well end up almost as much as this new one.

Just as a note - not one of the other repair centres I checked with came back with a quote so I need to hang onto this mechanics details for future reference if this goes all OK...

I'll post more as I go, and if all OK at the end get him listed in our UK recommended suppliers/repairers.

 

hi
I had a drain on my 2004 S-type
after much digging, I found a Jaguar tracker hidden in the boot
it was hidden behind the left hand panel cover, right at the back
it had a battery attached to it inside a box, battery had gone dead and was causing the drain
my car came with a lot of service history, but there was nothing about a tracker in it any where
just unplugged it and removed it and now no issues
looked oe as was plugged into original harness, by tyre well
cheers
Joe

 

Ok just to let you know that the Alternator from Andys Auto Parts arrived yesterday and will be unpacking it tonight to check it is OK.. according to Ebay he has sold over 20 of this specific alternator and has had no complaints so I am hopeful it is the right one - not that I will know for sure until the old one is off :-( I should be dropping my S-Type off at the repair shop Monday night, and picking it up Tuesday night :-)

 

Ok it took 2 batteries to manage the drive to the repair shop but as of 8.30 she is there with the new alternator.. Now just waiting on the news if its the right alternator or anything else rears its head whilst there..

 

Just heard from repair shop new alternator had a pulley with more slots on it but has fitted fine about a couple of hours labour. He did note a small coolant leak on nearside somewhere up the side of the engine but didnt have time to remove intercooler and take a look.. I will need to rebook for that.. He said 30 mins to get to it then pressure check and see what the leak is.. Will pick her up later today :-)

 

Ok guys.. End of the thread I think in this case.. And a good one I think. Alternator in and working ok as far as I can see.. Battery still needs more charging but the new alternator has it at 15v with the engine running. Used a bluetooth code reader and no errors logged despite so many power failures.. Sat nav, clock, audio etc all now reset to how I want them.. All sorted for the moment. Repair shop gave me the old alternator back and the electronics smells burnt or well cooked so now onto a back door lock that is a bit tight this weekend and coolant leak to sort in a month or so.. Thankyou to everyones help and input here.. Saved a packet and all sorted.

 

Should not stay at 15V for long. Something wrong if it does.