Hello from France guys I just acquired a 2001 V8 4.0L. And thank god for your epic climate control troubleshooting guide that I'm currently following.
However, there is another thing that's not working : centralized locking. I made you a video for better clarity, but below is the description as well : - Remote key or key lock can open all doors.
- Remote key or key lock (to the right) do not lock all doors : the system tries to lock then reopens
- Key lock to the left, then to the right manages to close all doors (see video)
PS : the rear passengers door handles seem very hard to pull when the car is unlocked, then go back to being smooth when the car is locked (even though the door stays locked)

Any help is welcome Please tell me if there is anything I should do to investigate further.

 

Yes anytime you lock the car and it immediately unlocks you can bet you have one or more door lock actuators that are bad. So now you need to figure out which one or ones are bad. The proper way is to use SDD and it will tell you which actuator is not responding. This is a big and complicated subject if your not familiar with SDD?

Several people have posted that if you sit in the car and lock and unlock it then watch the inside door handles for movement. Sometimes you can see one that is not moving or maybe not moving like the others. Now you do mention a rear door acting different and that could well be the problem and I would focus on that door and watch very carefully from the inside how it acts.

Next the door actuators are a pain to change so do a few searches on door lock actuators as there have been repair threads posted. If you don't have one consider getting the factory documents? The JTIS is the shop manual and the JEPC is the parts catalog and the same thing the dealers use to look up parts. Again kind of a big subject so a few searches will bring up a lot of stuff. You can find these for free too on this forum up at the top in the "Sticky Threads" section. If you plan to do your own work these are pretty much a necessity!

Another suggestion? With the age of the car it real common to have FOBS that don't work the best. These can be replaced cheaply with aftermarket ones and it might be worth your while since they are so cheap to just get a pair of new ones. I finally did that after doing multiple repairs to my old ones including replacing the bubble switches inside the FOB.

Finally since we have seen this a lot. PLEASE make sure you have 2 operating FOBS AND keys! Your car also came with a green headed valet key but that's not really important so if that's missing I would not worry about it.

Also the early 4.0L V-8 does have a list of know problems like timing tensioners and the DCCV plus the 5 speed Ford transmission. Do you have any service history on the car?
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hey thank you for your detailed answer. I will of course follow your instructions to detect which door is not working, hopefully.

I’m not familiar with SDD, which I guess is the diagnostic tool ? Software ? I would consider get it because I’d like to keep this car for the long run. I’m not bad informatic wise so I should give it a try. Any interesting links ?

I’m not familiar with the term FOB either but I guess it’s the remote, so I do have two working. Keys also. (Not the green one). Well at least they are detected

I would indeed get a workshop manual. I managed to get the Jaguar one but it’s really not that clear. If the JTIS is better I’ll get it, otherwise the sticky threads are indeed great.

I have an history that I’m currently reworking on excel for better clarity. Haven't found anything related to DCCV yet but as I understand it there’s an 80% chance I’m gonna have to change it. I tested the relays today and they are fine. I’m gonna test the fusebox tonight for proper voltage and then follow the sticky troubleshooting guide !

I know that the last oil change for the gearbox was 20 000km and 2 years ago.

 

Yes the FOB is the wireless portion with the push buttons on it and the key itself has a transponder in the head of the key for security reasons to actually start the car.
I hesitated to mention SDD but yes this is the factory Jaguar diagnostic software that is used in the dealerships.
So lets start with some background info and it will require some hours of study?

Here is a quick search and it returned 300 results!
SDD Info

JTIS-Jaguar Technical Information Services-The repair or shop manual.
JEPC-Jaguar Electric Parts Catalog- As it says has all parts listed with exploded diagrams and part numbers. No part numbers in the JTIS.

Yes I forget to mention in my opinion ALL jaguar documentation is very poor! How it was explained at one time is Jaguar is a small company compared to the giant corporations it competes with. So they can't afford to write and/or manuals in 30+ languages like a Ford, GM, Toyota can. So they write them so people that don't speak English can use them. You get diagrams, arrows and not much in writing. Pretty cryptic instructions. Again this forum is a life saver!

These are both factory manuals and I don't think anything aftermarket even comes close. Now one suggestion if you don't want to mess with downloading files and getting it all to work is a cheap PDF manual from EBay. That will get you the JTIS but the JEPC is a bit of as mess because of the ending of flash player that the JEPC depended on. We do have a work around again with some added work and complexity. A forum member has written some software that gets JEPC working again I "think" without using flash.

It's called Jpart and can be found with a bit of searching. He did a nice job and it does work fine.
Here are 13 threads on how this works. Again well worth your time and it's all free too.
JPART for the JEPC

Glad to see the transmission has been serviced as it's fiddly and messy to do. Even just checking the fluid level is a real pain!
You did not post how many miles are on the car?
I ask because the 5 speed Ford transmission is a good one but it's NOT as good as the upgraded 6 speed ZF that was installed from 2003 on. It has some unique problems as do all transmissions.
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thanks for your answer again. There's so much information that I'll have to use bullet points, I'm sorry it's a professional deformation.

• My jag has 110 000 miles, which is why it was cheap...

KEYS :

• I actually got one key and the valet key. Both can start up the engine and the previous user was using the valet one.
• I actually got only one working remote. Changed the battery on the non-working one : nothing.... The drivers manual says to go to a Jaguar dealership... I saw a couple threads, but they are all for the 4 buttons model, when I got the 3 buttons model (my car has an alarm).. Maybe it's like my Goldwing and the remote doesn't work just because it ran out of battery a long time ago, but if it is indeed the same, then the process to rearm it is pretty well buried..

Our Topic - CENTRALIZED LOCKING

• Yep, it's the passenger door locking. It just doesn't move when the car tries to lock. If I activate the lock from the inside manually and then try to use centralized locking, well the car just does endless closing / opening cycles. Looks like it's a lock lever replacement for me

DOCUMENTATION :

• Documentation wise, I got the bad boy in the picture. Which is how I know that replacing the DCCV is gonna cost me a lot in Jaguar premium fluid...
• It's working even though you can sometimes read "refer to <blank>". I think it's what you call the JTIS ?
• I'll try for the JPEC because exploded diagrams could be useful indeed...

TRANSMISSION :

• Double checked, and it was indeed serviced recently. The bill says it was done with "Bardhal" method. Rings a bell ?
• I agree, looking at the gas consumption, the 6 speed is definitely better for a lot of reasons hah

An off topic word about - CLIMATE CONTROL

• Followed the epic troubleshooting guide, thank you so much @kr98664 . Well, the DCCV is definitely partially opened... Temperatures of the cabin supply lines are as follow :
  • After 8min idle (hood opened) on LO (manual) : around 115 F
  • After 2min at 1500 RPM on LO (manual) : around 140 F
  • Then, after a few seconds on HI Manual : 175 F
• At least I can get some cold air with engine off :')

 

No need for Jaguar premium fluid.

 

Yes it's a door lock actuator. The handle has nothing to do with it and is just an external indicator of what's going on with the actuator deep inside the door. That's why I suggested to watch the door handles but they are NOT your problem. Now you know what to work on search for door lock actuator and you will find many threads as it is a somewhat common repair.

The coolant is a common Ford/Motorcraft one. Just search on that part number (Which is a Ford part number) to see how easy it is to get. Now one thing to check is with used Jaguar's it's VERY common for someone to just dump what ever they have around in. This is most likely the older green stuff. So check what it looks like and your car most likely needs a coolant change anyway. If it has been contaminated do spend some time flushing the system with distilled water before refilling.

Not sure of the Bardhal but I suspect this was done as a flush and they probably did NOT change the filter. Understand commercial shops do what makes the most money and NOT what's best for the car. So it is easy to disconnect one line and start pumping away. Cheap and easy plus they get to charge you for a fluid change without actually doing the most important part which is changing the filter and cleaning out the pan and magnet!
I hate to ask but what fluid did they use?

You can troubleshoot the DCCV if you want to? I have found the failure rate approaches 100% and your better off to just swap it out. Now you know there are 3 and 5 hose DCCV's? Not a problem just be sure you get the right one for your car.

The remote FOBS are cheap? Just go on EBay and match up what you have. There are hundreds of people selling them. At least you have 2 keys. I am sure your aware the green key does not open the glove box or the trunk. Now if you know enough about TIBBE keys you can fix that I believe? Again the FOBS are old and the bubble switches cause problems so I would get 2 new ones.

All the problems you have are very common and very well documented. We have large repair threads on changing the DCCV, coolant changes, transmission servicing, door lock actuators it's all been done before so don't re-invent the wheel! The forum is chock full of way more useful repair information than you will get trying to follow the Jaguar documents!

Since they car is old and you will be changing at least the DCCV anyway I would plan on changing ALL the coolant hoses out. Again the car is 20+ years old and this is just normal maintenance.
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I would recommend Pentosin, Pentofrost SF (the pink stuff) for your coolant change. Not cheap, but given is extended life, it is quite economical in the long run. Being in Europe, this coolant should be readily available.

I recently changed my leaking DCCV. As my coolant was relatively new, I placed a large disposable aluminum roasting pan under the car to catch any fluid lost (and there was quite a bit); I then filtered the coolant and returned it to the cooling system. My engine compartment is quite tidy, and if yours is less so, or the coolant is old, then a complete change is warranted.

 

Thank you so much for your time and patience @clubairth1 . You get a bottle of wine whenever you come near Paris. I have only one last question about they keys.... and then some hopefully final answers to finish our discussion

KEYS & REMOTES
- The physical TIBBE key goes inside locks. It has a transponder in it to operate. There's a process to sync a new physical key here : forum link - all you need to know about key fob - I don't need it. Both my physical keys work fine to unlock the car or start the engine.
- The FOB is the remote. I have two as well. However, only one (the most used...) is synced with the car. I have 3 buttons keys and the HOW TOs up there is about the 4 buttons one. Even the JTIS manual doesn't say how to do it. I found an old post mentioning a process where you start the car 8 times, then press both buttons at the same times, the lock with the FOB, etc... Well, that's a job for when my actuators will actually work Am I missing something ? :/

DOOR LOCK ACTUATORS
- Thanks for the clarification. I understand from this guide that's it's gonna be arduous indeed. But good thing there's a jag for pieces next to my place Maybe I'll get a spare AC compressor as well for good measure ahah

CLIMATE CONTROL - DCCV
- I watched a ton of YT videos on this replacement. Right now, I'm on my way to drain the coolant and will definitely change all of it !! Tomorrow I'll swap the DCCV with a friend, I ordered it the day after bringing the car home and dying of heat ahah.
- About the hoses : Good idea. Once I get the quality of life issues working, I'll tackle the mechanicals. For now, it works Gaskets, Hoses, Flexibles and other joints should definitely be replaced !

TRANSMISSION
- The bill does mention new filters and 13 liters of oil ! From what I understand, the "Bardhal method" includes pumping the oil with a machine, however they do this wile the engine is running, and it seems like they engage each gear separately while circulating oil. Which would explain why they billed 13liters instead of the 9liters mentionned in the service manual. They also billed a 52€ carter gasket, which could mean they removed and cleaned the pan ? It was a 650€ bill !

 

OK great that they list a filter when servicing the transmission. I think you good to go on that! How is it shifting?

Can you post a picture of your FOB? I am confused because I only know of the 4 button FOB with the switch blade key that was used on all? S Types.
Maybe yours is different and I have not seen that one before?

No the lock actuators should have nothing to do with programming the FOB. I would give it a try because you just marrying the FOB to the car and it does not matter that the locks don't respond right now.

I have not mentioned it but an early 4.0L usually has timing tensioner problems? Do you know if they have been replaced?

Yes change the DCCV but let's hope you don't have any AC problems either. I don't recommend installing used AC compressors. They are a wear item and the big problem is you just don't know what was run thru the compressor before you got it. What's VERY important is to NOT contaminate the AC system ever! Once that happens most all shops won't touch it and getting it cleaned up will not be easy or cheap. I only put in R134a and the proper PAG oil. No special additive stuff to lubricate or increase cooling. I find those just don't work and add additional contaminates to the AC system.

So good job and post back after the DCCV repair as I "think" that will fix most if not all of the AC problems.
BUT let's do one step at a time!
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Shifting is fine. Is feels like any early 2000s automatic transmission. However, after one week parked, I got one drop of orange transmission fluid on the floor. Also, the surface is clearly oily. Gonna have to think about adding a few glasses from time to time for good measure (yes I know it's not the right way to do it, but hey, I want to do good but also cheap and "easy").

I still have to finish going thru the documentation and put it on excel, I haven't seen anything about timing sensors yet.

About the AC System : having air that is not mixed with 90 C air from the coolant will already be nice. We'll see about fixing the actual AC later, if it needs fixing

Here's my FOB (I don't know how to make the pic smaller, sorry :/ )

 

Yes yours is different and a new style to me!
All the S-Types I have seen are 4 button with switch blade key?
Where are you located? I am thinking this is a regional or market difference?
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France The driver's manual doesn't mention anything about that

 

The most common fault with any remote key fob, apart from a dead battery, is that one of the switches mounted on the circuit board has stuck in the 'on' position.
This will stop all the buttons from working.

The Jaguar SDD software only works on cars that are 05 model year or newer. (Made from January 2004)
For the older S-types you need to use the Jaguar IDS software.
The last reliable version of SDD (130) does come with IDS, but the drivers and firmware for the dedicated interface (Mongoose etc.) can cause issues with IDS if they are set up for SDD.
SDD ands IDS both run on windows XP that needs to have no internet connection and also needs re-set the date each time XP starts to stop SDD trying to update to a later version.

Mellow