I've had the clunking, rattles and overall annoying sounds coming from my stype r for quite a while. I think they may have started when I lowered the car some time ago. Anyhow, after watching the video on how to diagnose suspension bushings gone bad on youtube, I got the car off the ground one side at a time.

The first wheel I did was the passenger side right and I found that there was some serious play in it. I can rattle it left to right and up and down about a 1/4" in either way. I tried that on my other corners and was not able to.

When I did it to the driver's side, it felt like there was constant pressure on the wheel and the steering wheel moved slightly when I forced it. When I did it on the passenger side, it was almost effortless to get the thing to rattle.

I took the wheel off the car and checked that the wheel was mounted correctly and tightenened down all the way with the impact gun. I did this twice and yes, it was snug against the rotor.

What could be causing this? I'll try to attach the youtube video if possible. If I can't my user name is "russriggs" and the video is "jaguar front passenger wheel".

For now the car is parked until I can take it to the shop.

 

 

Based on your video, I'd guess bad wheel bearings would be the issue. I had the same type of play on one of my pathfinder wheels a couple years ago and it was the wheel bearing/hub. Also, search "bad wheel bearing symptoms" on youtube and you'll find similar videos to yours... hope it's not too costly to fix.

 

Whoa!!!

I am with goblue, wheel bearing. Its a real easy job if the front hub assembly is not rusted into place. If you can change front brakes, you will have no problem. Took me less than 20 minutes to do ours a few years back, (some old timers will remember I did the replacement wearing my bath rope)!

Look for a Timken or SKF wheel hub replacement, Auto Zone, PEP Boys etc.. They come with the speed sensor wire already attached.

Here is a link with the tools that will be needed (read 3rd post):

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...acement-11337/

One more to read, but remember ours is the 3.0 MY:

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...l-47831/page2/

 

Rick, what's a "bath rope"? A little something you picked up at Adam and Eve for the Friday Night Shower Frolics?

 

Was there some flash of inspiration (or otherwise) that you feel continues to stand out in their minds?

 

thanks for the help! That definately makes me rest easier. The crappy thing is that the whole knuckle and driver's side suspension was replaced due to the accident 13 months ago and about 12- 15k miles ago. I'm thinking something isn't right.

Well, if this is an easy fix, then I can get to replacing the front end suspension. The creaks are driving me to hate this car. I'm thinking of replacing the front sway bar bushings, front stabilizer links and possibly the strut bushings (If I can find them).

Anyone know who to call for the front strut bushings? I remember them being mentioned as available, but don't recall ever seeing a name of a shop or dealer.

 

Accessorzing the lawn mowing outfit Jon!!


Ha!!! Ya'll know I meant the trusty old bathrobe, damn typos


Stand in more like it

 

qwikets, bearings are the likely cause of the wheel play but the creaking may not be bushings. The lowering springs bring the strut valving to the extreme, damaging them. Mina Gallery springs and CAT struts are replacing the H&R's.Carefully/safely get underneath her while someone pushes down, listening for then localizing the creaking sounds.

 

Hi guys. The car was in the jag shop today for an oil change and I had them get the car on the lift. They said that my wheel bearing is shot. They also quoted me a price of about $500 to replace them. They cited that you need to buy the whole hub and not just the bearing. Anyhow, with that being said, how much approximately are the hub setups for the s type r? They told me that the r is different from the base s type v6 or v8. Is that true? Can I just go to autozone, pep boys or one of those type stores to pickup the hub assembly specific to the s type r?

Any info would help!

 

Most of that stuff is dealer only. My wheel that movement too. Turned out to be loose nut on lower balljoint

 

You could find a hub on ebay for alot less

 

See post #4

 

Thanks guys. I did a quick look at Rockauto.com and here's what I saw....

Assembly WikiPriceAlternateVALUE PRO Part # 513168 Non-Driven w/ Integral ABS
Front$76.79Add Part TIMKEN Part # HA590224 Ball Bearing; 4.25 in. Bolt Circle Diam; 5.476 in. Flange Diameter; 1.752 in. Flange Offset; Modified Flange Shape; 63.28 mm Wheel Pilot Diam
Front
$104.79Add Part BECK/ARNLEY Part # 0516248
Front
$110.89Add Part SKF Part # BR930213 {Click Info Link for Alternate/OEM Part Numbers1W4Z1104AA, 2W4Z1104AA, 3W4Z1104BA, 5W4Z1104BA, XR848149, XW4Z1104AA} Bolt circle diameter B=2.5450"; Wheel PIO diameter=2.4935"; Hub PIO diameter=2.9860"; Flange offset=1.7935"; Flange diameter=5.4660"; Brake PIO diameter=2.8025"; Bolt hole size=.4090"; Bolt circle diameter A=4.2340IN
FrontSo at least there are parts available.....
$128.79Add Part
\


I'll call the local autozone and see what they have. Hopefully everything goes smoothly on the repair this weekend. Also, does it really matter which one I use or are they all about the same?

 

Thanks qwiketz. This info. can be very useful for those who'll eventually need it.

 

got the parts.... I'm going to try to work on it tonight after work.. Here's the part... BTW, I got the part for $113 shipped from Rock Auto. The local Autozone wanted $180+tax.

 

I would have bought the Timken bearing one since Timken. Moog, TRW. make high quality suspension and bearing pieces.
Bath rope? Is that another name for a man thong?

 

yup, I got the timken one. It looks nice.

Question, if I undo the two caliper bolts and undo the 4 hub bolts, can I rotate the caliper with it still on the rotor and slide out the old hub and then slide in the new one? It's raining today so I wasn't able to work on it today. My rotor is pretty new, so I at least know I won't have issues with it being stuck to the hub.

 

hmmm Brutal you may remember this thread from way back:

**Caution** thong pictures when clicked!!

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...ut-wide-38113/


Qwiketz I cannot remember if that would work or not. Really it will only take twenty (20) minutes to replace. As long as the hub assembly is not seized to the arm.

 

Man I can't believe they wanted $500 to fix that thing. It literally took me longer to find the correct sockets than fix it. It was 2 18mm bolts for the caliper and 4 15mm bolts for the hub itself...