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-   -   Serpentine Belt Replacement (https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s-type-s-type-r-supercharged-v8-x200-15/serpentine-belt-replacement-54128/)

jazzwineman 05-04-2011 11:29 AM

Serpentine Belt Replacement
 
Does someone have a step by step of how to replace the serpentine belt on S-Type, 3.0

Thanks

Tom (lost in Dallas)

2005 S-Type 3.0

joycesjag 05-04-2011 12:14 PM

Tom do you have the routing sticker on the radiator splash guard? That tells you where the tensioner is and the way the belt goes back on.

Hint: if you are looking at your belt it appears that a few things have to be removed but they don't, its quite a simple job.

JagV8 05-04-2011 12:52 PM

Picture of belt routing in FAQs, see Vehicle Specifications PDF

EZrider800 05-04-2011 01:55 PM

Rick,
Are you talking about the 3.0L V-6 engine sepentine belt? I looked at it the day I bought the belt and have put it off for 2 months now because it looked like a horrible job to tackle. I was told I needed to remove the air box to be able to get to it. Is this not true? Care to share some tricks Bro?

Thanks!

jazzwineman 05-04-2011 04:15 PM


Originally Posted by joycesjag (Post 345968)
Tom do you have the routing sticker on the radiator splash guard? That tells you where the tensioner is and the way the belt goes back on.

Hint: if you are looking at your belt it appears that a few things have to be removed but they don't, its quite a simple job.


The only sticker on my splash guard is one about the fan and one abut the belt and both have a red x on them and the one on the belt shows what NOT to do (how silly).

Have you done the job and do you have to remove anything and do you do it from the top or bottom?

Tom

jazzwineman 05-04-2011 04:18 PM


Originally Posted by jagv8 (Post 345982)
Picture of belt routing in FAQs, see Vehicle Specifications PDF


Thanks, I will go look. Relevant to your message about my signature- thanks for the siggestion, however my signature on this thread is ""
Tom (lost in Dallas)

2005 S-Type 3.0 "" which minus milage, which has nothing to do with my question, should be enough unless I am missing something.

Tom

joycesjag 05-04-2011 06:25 PM

1 Attachment(s)
Remove radiator splash shield (under hood). Remove the air box and cold air intake, 1-13mm bolt, disconnect the MAF connector and TB radiator clamp.

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/a...4&d=1304551447

jazzwineman 05-04-2011 10:50 PM


Originally Posted by joycesjag (Post 346089)
Remove radiator splash shield (under hood). The air box can be removed but not necessary, 1-13mm nut, disconnect the MAF connector and TB radiator clamp.

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/a...4&d=1304551447

Thanks- thia will be very helpful.

Tom

EZrider800 05-05-2011 08:04 AM

Thanks Rick. Very helpful. Now if I only had smaller arms and long skinny fingers I could get my hands down in there where they need to go.........

jazzwineman 05-05-2011 08:22 AM


Originally Posted by joycesjag (Post 346089)
Remove radiator splash shield (under hood). The air box can be removed but not necessary, 1-13mm nut, disconnect the MAF connector and TB radiator clamp.

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/a...4&d=1304551447


Rick:

Did you have any problem with the small hand issue or is it a matter of careful patience

Tom

joycesjag 05-05-2011 12:16 PM

Actually I have the "long, skinny" hands. I did not have a problem removing nor placing the new belt. As I recall, I already had the air box and intake tube removed from the car (for another reason), with that it was a 10 minute procedure.

Sorry I can't help more. It really is a straight forward (easy) job.

EZrider800 05-05-2011 05:10 PM

I think my problem is big forearms and short stubby fingers. :icon_doh: I wind up with cuts all up and down my arms and on my hands every time I work on a car.............:mad:

Norri 05-05-2011 06:32 PM

You're not a piano player then? :)

EZrider800 05-05-2011 08:49 PM

Not exactly...........:icon_no:

aholbro1 01-05-2014 02:53 PM

2 Attachment(s)
Sorry to bump an old thread, but this seems like the most fitting place to stash this, and it may prove helpful to someone else...plus, I'll still be able to find it next time I need it, even if I have another total computer crash whilst not having stuff backed up! (Still gotta find a way to get a copy of last year's tax filing....) I ended up here by googling "3.0L S-Type drive belt diagram" this afternoon while putting the finishing touches on my memory-extender.

Said crash also wiped out much of my maintenance history, so when I opened a Rock Auto box from back in October this weekend to do brake-pads, I found more treasures than I remembered ordering. The 03 transports my daughter to/from Pharmacy school - a grand total of maybe 5 mi/day round trip. However, that is a six-hour drive from me, the shop, and all of my tools, so I try to pre-emptively renew parts I suspect may fail before her next trip home. Not always a successful enterprise (Damned DCCV!) but usually the new outlasts the existing....My last recollection of a drive belt change is doing 6 or 8 in the span of one week when the damper on the V-6 was failing - she was in HS and now a 1st yr pharmacy student so figured it's time.

Anywho....in my largely unsuccessful quest to duplicate Rick's estimated times given in his many wonderful how-to's w/pics, I surmised that I spend a lot of time trapsing back and forth across the shop to obtain this or that tool. Therefore, I elected to start my own how-to with little notations as to the use of each tool so, for instance, If I'm renewing the air filter rather than changing the drive belt, I'll be able to select the subset of tools req'd. So, the attached pdf represents the way I do it and the tools I use, even so there may be better/easier/cheaper methods and/or tools. For example, I certainly wouldn't go buy a 3/8" torque wrench to relieve the belt tension - but it takes a 3/8" drive, and the Q-wrench is the longest-handled 3/8" drive I have. In former times, I'd try the 1/2" drive breaker-bar and 1/2" to 3/8" adapter - but then last summer, I attempted to use it to break torque on the XJ Crank-damper fixing bolt and broke Harbor-Freight's finest all to (heck).......

voicewizard 06-08-2019 12:45 PM


Originally Posted by joycesjag (Post 345968)
Tom do you have the routing sticker on the radiator splash guard? That tells you where the tensioner is and the way the belt goes back on.

Hint: if you are looking at your belt it appears that a few things have to be removed but they don't, its quite a simple job.

Howdy; I have a 2005 S-type 3.0 engine and after taking off the air box & splash guard (not much of a problem) I'm able to see the path of the belt fairly well. The only thing that looks like it could stump me is where the water pump is. Due to the metal obstruction there, It looks like one either has to remove the water pump or bare minimum, the two hoses there & possibly a bracket to get the belt out (and of course, to put the new one on). Do you know if that's true? Is there some clear path that I'm missing? Since the Jaguar dealership only charges $230 or so (INCLUDING the $87 belt) it seems to me maybe there's an easier way, As I would think certainly if you have to take the water pump off and back on again, the full charge would be at least $200 in labor alone. If you have access to any photos showing how to remove the belt without having to do anything with the water pump bric-a-brac, that would be awesome as well. In any event,thanks in advance! :-)

Norri 06-08-2019 01:54 PM

Welcome to the forum voicewizard,

Please post an intro in the new members section when you can.

There is no need to remove the water pump, that would be a bit of a catch 22 situation.

Check out the pdf in post #15 it has a step by step with pics.

voicewizard 06-08-2019 06:10 PM


Originally Posted by Norri (Post 2082282)
Welcome to the forum voicewizard,

Please post an intro in the new members section when you can.

There is no need to remove the water pump, that would be a bit of a catch 22 situation.

Check out the pdf in post #15 it has a step by step with pics.

Hi Norri,

First, as to the issue: yes I definitely already had a VERY close look at that PDF (And in fact had already downloaded it to my computer). Have a look at the PDF again: unfortunately, it does NOT show a step-by-step on belt removal – only the preparatory steps (Which are very helpful, don't get me wrong) but Unfortunately, it doesn't show the actual belt removal process.

Indeed, there is no picture (at least of that area by the water pump & pulley) with an explanation of how to get it off (without removing either the water pump or at least the two hoses there & I think the bracket) as I mentioned in my comment.

I was asking the user how they were able to remove the belt from that one place by the water pump where there seems to be a pretty "insurmountable" piece of aluminum blocking removal (or, in the case of simply cutting the old belt off, minimum, putting ON the new belt).

If someone Has a diagram and/or at least able to answer my question in detail, that would be terrific. (Worst comes to worst, the dealership will do it for under 250 bucks, which although sucks because I already have a belt that I got on Amazon.com & prefer DIY, at least is not super cost prohibitive :-)

As to my profile, I'll go to the new member section and see if there's anything I missed (I thought I had filled out everything I need to but may have missed something).

NBCat 06-08-2019 06:16 PM

It may be easier for you to remove the belt tensioner to allow the belt to be removed and the new one fitted.

voicewizard 06-08-2019 06:28 PM


Originally Posted by NBCat (Post 2082382)
It may be easier for you to remove the belt tensioner to allow the belt to be removed and the new one fitted.

Thanks for your reply, NBCat. My issue is not regarding removing the tension (on the belt) but actually taking the belt OFF, which seems like it would be hindered by the metal structure - in the area of the water pump and that pulley.

All of the other pullies and paths that the belt takes (indeed, in its serpentine travel) have spacing to remove and replace – the only one place I see visually that would prevent the belt from easily being removed would be that metal in the area of the water pump (and those hoses there etc).

I'll probably just take it in and have the mechanic do it after all, unless I were to see a photo or video showing me a path/avenue through which I can get the belt off (and on) that I'm not seeing now (I've taken off the air a box, etc. so have a fairly clear view of the path).

jazzwineman 06-08-2019 11:45 PM


Originally Posted by voicewizard (Post 2082386)
Thanks for your reply, NBCat. My issue is not regarding removing the tension (on the belt) but actually taking the belt OFF, which seems like it would be hindered by the metal structure - in the area of the water pump and that pulley.

All of the other pullies and paths that the belt takes (indeed, in its serpentine travel) have spacing to remove and replace – the only one place I see visually that would prevent the belt from easily being removed would be that metal in the area of the water pump (and those hoses there etc).

I'll probably just take it in and have the mechanic do it after all, unless I were to see a photo or video showing me a path/avenue through which I can get the belt off (and on) that I'm not seeing now (I've taken off the air a box, etc. so have a fairly clear view of the path).

I would think if you did a survey of the users on the site, you will find that everyone that has replaced their belt did not have to do what you are suggesting. This is not a hard operation. I don't have photos to send, but someone might. I would NOT go to the dealer under any circumstances for anything. I would give my car away before paying their over the top amounts and listen to their arrogant attitude, along with the worst quality control of any group in any business I have ever seen. (exceptions to NBcat and Brutal noted).

Find a nice indy shop. The first time I needed one put on I went to a family owned shop down from me and spent $20 bucks to have them take one off and put a new one on. After that I did it the next 2 times myself. I bought the belt each time myself. Make sure you check the pricing on Rock Auto for a belt.

Tom in Plano

voicewizard 06-09-2019 12:28 AM


Originally Posted by jazzwineman (Post 2082443)
I would think if you did a survey of the users on the site, you will find that everyone that has replaced their belt did not have to do what you are suggesting. This is not a hard operation. I don't have photos to send, but someone might. I would NOT go to the dealer under any circumstances for anything. I would give my car away before paying their over the top amounts and listen to their arrogant attitude, along with the worst quality control of any group in any business I have ever seen. (exceptions to NBcat and Brutal noted).

Find a nice indy shop. The first time I needed one put on I went to a family owned shop down from me and spent $20 bucks to have them take one off and put a new one on. After that I did it the next 2 times myself. I bought the belt each time myself. Make sure you check the pricing on Rock Auto for a belt.

Tom in Plano

Hey Tom! Well, first of all, thank you for replying; I'm just down the street from you in Deep Ellum! :-)

As for not utilizing the dealer, actually, there is a great Indi shop that works on foreign cars (especially BMWs but Jaguars & other European cars as well) very close here in downtown. I have already reached out to him. He is a very nice dude from South Africa and possibly the antithesis of the big corporate dealer type.

Based on what you're saying, I will probably pull everything one more time (airbox, yada yada) and have ONE LAST look myself at the area with which I'm seeing a problem and maybe I'll find that pathway everyone else seems to have found.

If not, I'll have my local guy do it and if for any reason he won't or can't, I'll do the unthinkable and go to Jaguar of Frisco where they can do it for 232 bucks out the door (including the belt, so that way the one I have purchased already will just be a spare :-)

Cheers and have a great week!

jazzwineman 06-09-2019 01:07 AM


Originally Posted by voicewizard (Post 2082453)
Hey Tom! Well, first of all, thank you for replying; I'm just down the street from you in Deep Ellum! :-)

As for not utilizing the dealer, actually, there is a great Indi shop that works on foreign cars (especially BMWs but Jaguars & other European cars as well) very close here in downtown. I have already reached out to him. He is a very nice dude from South Africa and possibly the antithesis of the big corporate dealer type.

Based on what you're saying, I will probably pull everything one more time (airbox, yada yada) and have ONE LAST look myself at the area with which I'm seeing a problem and maybe I'll find that pathway everyone else seems to have found.

If not, I'll have my local guy do it and if for any reason he won't or can't, I'll do the unthinkable and go to Jaguar of Frisco where they can do it for 232 bucks out the door (including the belt, so that way the one I have purchased already will just be a spare :-)

Cheers and have a great week!

I do not mind getting together with you and being of assistance. Even if my time did not permit- I would turn you over to the guys that did mine and you can buy the belt and wait and pay about $20-25 bucks and be in and out. I do have a base question- why are you changing the belt in the first place? You can buy good belt at Rock for $22.00

Tom

voicewizard 06-09-2019 02:34 AM


Originally Posted by jazzwineman (Post 2082459)
I do not mind getting together with you and being of assistance. Even if my time did not permit- I would turn you over to the guys that did mine and you can buy the belt and wait and pay about $20-25 bucks and be in and out. I do have a base question- why are you changing the belt in the first place? You can buy good belt at Rock for $22.00

Tom

Hey Tom,

I'll start with your last question: it shows a bit of visable dry cracking, throughout. I just purchased the car about 1000 miles ago and it has about 197K on the clock, so this is simply one bit of maintenance that I feel I should take care of now rather than after towing it (after the belt breaking while, let's say, on a trip to Oklahoma or whatnot LOL - or not so LOL :-)

It's dry and cracking so it would be nipping it in the bud, as they say.

I already have purchased a belt that was well reviewed on Amazon – I think I paid somewhere between $15 and $20 for it.

Although somewhat tempting to try it again myself, rather than take all that stuff off and then realize I still am stumped, I would definitely like to take you up on your offer as regards the folks you say that would put the belt on for me for the approximate $$ range you mention – that would be utterly dandy!

I suppose it's in Plano (?) I'm in downtown Dallas so that travel would be not much of an issue.

Feel free to direct message me with the shop's information and I'll reach out to them & take it from there and again would like to say thank you so much for taking the time to reply!

jazzwineman 06-11-2019 09:56 AM

1 Attachment(s)
here is the Alldata procedure attached.

Tom in Dallas/Plano

voicewizard 06-11-2019 10:01 AM

That doesn't show how to get the belt out from around the water pump housing/structure, but indeed, those are the basic instructions; understood. Thanks.

jazzwineman 06-11-2019 11:27 AM


Originally Posted by voicewizard (Post 2083391)
That doesn't show how to get the belt out from around the water pump housing/structure, but indeed, those are the basic instructions; understood. Thanks.

I just looked at mine and the belt on goes across the top of the water pump. Once you get it loose at either end, it will just slide across the top of the water pump and come out- it does not go all the way around the water pump.

TBB

Norri 06-11-2019 11:28 AM

Why not take a picture of the part you think will be a problem?

jazzwineman 06-11-2019 11:29 AM


Originally Posted by NBCat (Post 2082382)
It may be easier for you to remove the belt tensioner to allow the belt to be removed and the new one fitted.

If I correct, the belt just is on top of the water pump held by tension, not all the way around it and once the belt is loose- it will just slide off the top of the water pump pulley? Does that sound correct? It seems I did something like that when I did many many moons ago.

T


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