Shock Bolt Stuck- Help!
(2005 S-Type 3.0 not -cat shocks) I started today to replace the front shocks (passenger side first).
I could not with all the strength I have and several breaker bars make any headway in budging the bottom bolt on the shock. I even used an electric impact tool to no avail. The car does not have rust in the area and the nut side of the shock show no corrosion or rust. I am now going to give it a daily dose of penetrating fluid, but what is a suggestion solution. Perhaps the impact tool was older and does not apply enough force, but I am skeptical of that. I could try get a more powerful impact or air impact, but am not interested in shearing the head off. Any and all suggestions welcomed and highly appreciated. Tom in Dallas/Plano |
Why are you trying to turn the BOLT???
The NUT is what should be turned. I would HOLD the BOLT and TURN the NUT. The bolt could be seized in the lower damper mount?? Maybe some HEAT needs to be applied if there is locking compound on the threads? bob |
Originally Posted by motorcarman
(Post 2006386)
Why are you trying to turn the BOLT???
The NUT is what should be turned. I would HOLD the BOLT and TURN the NUT. The bolt could be seized in the lower damper mount?? Maybe some HEAT needs to be applied if there is locking compound on the threads? bob Thanks Tom https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...17b06689e5.gif |
It's been a long time since I worked on the front suspension of an X200/X202.
I seem to remember a blue or pink colored locking compound on the bolts?? The JEPC shows a separate nut for the front dampers and 3 different M14 bolts depending on the VIN. bob |
I had a similar problem and I got the bolt out using propane to heat the nut and an air impact wrench on the bolt. The air tools didn’t work without heat. |
Originally Posted by AaronD81
(Post 2006823)
I had a similar problem and I got the bolt out using propane to heat the nut and an air impact wrench on the bolt. The air tools didn’t work without heat. Tom |
Yes I only had a problem on one side. I didn’t heat the nut too much because I didn’t want to melt the bushing. I don’t remember seeing any thread locker and the shocks were not original, the dealer put new ones on when I bought the car a few years ago. |
Originally Posted by AaronD81
(Post 2006997)
Yes I only had a problem on one side. I didn’t heat the nut too much because I didn’t want to melt the bushing. I don’t remember seeing any thread locker and the shocks were not original, the dealer put new ones on when I bought the car a few years ago. Right now I am using PB Blaster for every night of this week until I get ready to do it again. Thanks Tom |
PB blaster didn’t work for me. I used a normal propane torch that you use for copper soldering, heated for maybe 2 minutes and it came right out. Used an air wrench, thought a breaker bar might slip and strip the bolt head. The heat didn’t even strip the green paint on the strut, I was shocked how quickly it worked. |
Originally Posted by AaronD81
(Post 2007048)
PB blaster didn’t work for me. I used a normal propane torch that you use for copper soldering, heated for maybe 2 minutes and it came right out. Used an air wrench, thought a breaker bar might slip and strip the bolt head. The heat didn’t even strip the green paint on the strut, I was shocked how quickly it worked. Tom |
Here you go:
https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-screw-buster.html You will also need a pneumatic air hammer. A $15 Chinese knockoff will work just fine. We use screw knockers all the time in my field (aviation). They work very differently from an impact gun. An impact gun applies torque only. A screw knocker applies an axial impact, not radial like an impact gun. The axial force sets up a vibration that is very, very effective. Also, because an impact gun applies oodles of rotational force, that tends to strip the fastener head. With a screw knocker, the only torque is what you apply via the handle, so you have complete control. It's my go-to tool for stuck fasteners. The only caveat is a screw knocker only works when all of the impact force is applied directly to the fastener head. Judging by the previous picture, with the recessed Torx head, you should fine. If you were working on a conventional hex head bolt, the socket extends past the hex and will apply force to the base metal, not the fastener itself. In such a case, I've used washers inside the socket so the fastener receives the impact, not the base metal. |
I had to cut mine out. Took about 30 mins with a cutting wheel. I also cut the welded nut off. Good luck finding the correct bolt for re-assembly. I ordered a 10 pack from Amazon, which shipped from the UK.
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Oh. And if you resort to cutting it out, you WILL destroy the bushing. Didn't matter for me as I was replacing the lower control arm.
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Originally Posted by ncbrit
(Post 2007486)
I had to cut mine out. Took about 30 mins with a cutting wheel. I also cut the welded nut off. Good luck finding the correct bolt for re-assembly. I ordered a 10 pack from Amazon, which shipped from the UK.
Thanks Tom in Dallas/Plano |
Originally Posted by ncbrit
(Post 2007487)
Oh. And if you resort to cutting it out, you WILL destroy the bushing. Didn't matter for me as I was replacing the lower control arm.
Tom |
I used these
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Originally Posted by jazzwineman
(Post 2007503)
Do you have a part number for the bolt itself? I want to replace them regardless. I am probably going to use a heating method of some sort, but also consider using after a week of PB Blaster, using a ratcheted breaker bar and cheater and see if all of my workouts give me the strength to move it enough I can get it out. I understand that when you see the bolts- they appear quite sturdy?
Thanks Tom in Dallas/Plano |
Originally Posted by jazzwineman
(Post 2007505)
Thanks, but I have no need to replace the lower control arms. They are fine. Interesting that Alldata says to replace the lower control arm, you need to disconnect the steering rack and then let it hang from the car with some sort of tie-down. I can't see that makes any sense and what purpose that would accomplish?
Tom |
Originally Posted by ncbrit
(Post 2007516)
I cant see any need to drop the rack. If you remove the steering knuckle, and unbolt the lower arm from the chassis mount, and forward control arm, the entire strut can be taken out with the control arm still attached. You have to wiggle it quite a bit, for it to slide out, but the steering rack is not in the way.
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Originally Posted by ncbrit
(Post 2007514)
Link for bolts I used. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GC9SLLM
T |
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