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Synthetic oil
2003 S-type R. Synthetic oil. How often should I change? Garage says 3 months.
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Originally Posted by Scottish Chap
(Post 672346)
2003 S-type R. Synthetic oil. How often should I change? Garage says 3 months.
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Grab JTIS (free here) and it has the servicing schedule :)
Says 1yr / 10K miles. Jag are engineers so it will be conservative. Reduce if you have specific reasons such as extreme climate (actually, they have another schedule for that) or track use or some such. |
:icon_munching:
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Originally Posted by jimgoose
(Post 672351)
This will have more to do with mileage than wall-clock time. What's your annual mileage like? Personally I change oil every 5,000 miles. 5W30 semi-synth.
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Originally Posted by JagV8
(Post 672354)
Grab JTIS (free here) and it has the servicing schedule :)
Says 1yr / 10K miles. Jag are engineers so it will be conservative. Reduce if you have specific reasons such as extreme climate (actually, they have another schedule for that) or track use or some such. |
Also check oil levels monthly. These motors are known to consume some oil :)
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Originally Posted by Scottish Chap
(Post 672410)
Thanks. I drive around 13K per year.
Originally Posted by Michael Star
(Post 672413)
Also check oil levels monthly. These motors are known to consume some oil :)
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Originally Posted by Scottish Chap
(Post 672346)
2003 S-type R. Synthetic oil. How often should I change? Garage says 3 months.
Originally Posted by Norri
(Post 672357)
:icon_munching:
Serious reply for the OP: Jaguar's factory recommendation for oil change is 10,000 miles or one year whichever comes first, given standard driving conditions. Severe service is half that interval I think. No one has come up with any evidence that suggests that there's anything wrong with this standard interval. The engines are known to live long and happy lives with it in fact. Another, perhaps more important point. The factory recommendation is for standard dino oil, not synthetic. Jaguar provided no 'credit' or extensions for synthetic and in fact did not mention it's use at all in earlier manuals. They are certainly not mandatory. Given that the only real benefit of synthetics is an extended change interval, it seems like waste to use such oil and change it at less or equal frequency than good old dino. With all that in mind, please use whatever type of oil and change interval that makes YOU happiest. |
Originally Posted by Mikey
(Post 672469)
...Given that the only real benefit of synthetics is an extended change interval...
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Originally Posted by Mikey
(Post 672469)
You sharing Norri? Severe service is half that interval I think. Extreme according to that manual thingy is below -22F and above 122F. |
Originally Posted by Norri
(Post 672482)
Of course I'll share, I'm just watching the snow and wondering if my flight is really on time this afternoon.
Extreme according to that manual thingy is below -22F and above 122F.
Originally Posted by jimgoose
(Post 672475)
I disagree. I think it shouldn't be expected to lock away and carry engine crud/acids/etc. for longer than mineral oil, particularly in big thirsty engines. For me, the main benefits of the synth are better cold-start protection, better shear stability and less oxidation.
- Bob is the Oil Guy is the best place to re-beat these horses to death if you're interested. They've been at it as their raison d'etre since 1992 and have yet to conclude anything. My own studies go back to the early 80s with no different results. :icon_toast: |
If you are going to use the 10k interval make sure you use an oil filter that is rated for at least 10k miles. The cheap ones are not. I am doing a 10k interval with synthetic and a mobile 1 filter rated at 15k miles.
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I use Amsoil 5w30 Signature series synthetic oil and Mobil-1 extended live oil filter for 1y/10 k intervals :icon_lolsign:
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Originally Posted by Mikey
(Post 672489)
...Yes, that's the theory the marketeers promote. If you ask the engines, they apparently couldn't care less.
- Bob is the Oil Guy is the best place to re-beat these horses to death if you're interested. They've been at it as their raison d'etre since 1992 and have yet to conclude anything. My own studies go back to the early 80s with no different results. |
Yes, to a large degree, plus greatly improved oil additives packages, better fuels and additives, the elimination of lead in fuel, better fuel management systems and even the much maligned pollution control systems and regulations have all contributed to incredibly durable engine that last almost forever- in spite of what some owners do to them.
An acquaintance is a field service engineer for GM in the US and was telling the tale of a new Corvette ZR-1 owner who decided to do his own oil change. Not knowing or understanding that it is a dry sump engine and there is virtually no oil in the pan when the engine is stopped, he interpreted the mere dribble that came out as a sign that the engine had completely run out- and added 6 qts. to the crankcase. The overage clogged the PCV system and supercharger completely. Had he not shut the engine off it is almost certain it would have hydrolocked and destroyed itself. He then asked not just for warranty, but for an entire new car. :icon_verzsilly: |
Originally Posted by Mikey
(Post 672634)
Yes, to a large degree, plus greatly improved oil additives packages, better fuels and additives, the elimination of lead in fuel, better fuel management systems and even the much maligned pollution control systems and regulations have all contributed to incredibly durable engine that last almost forever- in spite of what some owners do to them.
An acquaintance is a field service engineer for GM in the US and was telling the tale of a new Corvette ZR-1 owner who decided to do his own oil change. Not knowing or understanding that it is a dry sump engine and there is virtually no oil in the pan when the engine is stopped, he interpreted the mere dribble that came out as a sign that the engine had completely run out- and added 6 qts. to the crankcase. The overage clogged the PCV system and supercharger completely. Had he not shut the engine off it is almost certain it would have hydrolocked and destroyed itself. He then asked not just for warranty, but for an entire new car. :icon_verzsilly: Yeah, there certainly is all that. A lot of new stuff, particularly turbodiesels, is starting mandate full-synth in the service documentation though. |
There are certainly vehicles, both diesel and petrol that do require use of synthetics for good reason. I wouldn't second guess the OEM and substitute dino on any of those. The requirement most frequently is to do with heat soak-back after hot shutdown and an issue with dino oil coking in oil passages or galleries. Turbo units frequently have this issue.
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Originally Posted by sprdav33
(Post 672523)
If you are going to use the 10k interval make sure you use an oil filter that is rated for at least 10k miles. The cheap ones are not. I am doing a 10k interval with synthetic and a mobile 1 filter rated at 15k miles.
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Originally Posted by Mikey
(Post 672640)
There are certainly vehicles, both diesel and petrol that do require use of synthetics for good reason. I wouldn't second guess the OEM and substitute dino on any of those. The requirement most frequently is to do with heat soak-back after hot shutdown and an issue with dino oil coking in oil passages or galleries. Turbo units frequently have this issue.
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