Wait a minute. Back to the a/c. There was thread a while back that discussed a tapping noise inside the car related to a/c...solenoid perhaps? Anyone here remember the thread form late summer or thereabouts 2010?

By the way I forgot to mention that there is heavy exhaust smoke comming from the tail pipes. what could this indicate? Detonation, pre-ignition?

Ok, what colour is the smoke, and how much. At idle or at speed? Only when cold? Picture?

What color is the oil on the dipstick. Any bubbling in the radiator header tank? If you take off the oil filler cap, are there puffs of smoke blowing out? Is there greyish residue on the inside of the oil filler cap?

Smoke is not good. You had better make sure that the dealer fixes it before any warranty period is up. Start with a registered letter stating your concerns. Not a phone call, not a visit, a registered letter. That get's you on record as to the date that you reported the problems.

Hey people, this is serious. The OP JUST TOOK DELIVERY on this car according to the opening message.

Dave, plumsauce is right on...send a certified letter and take her back to the dealer. I thought I read back that the purchase was an "as is" from a non-dealer?

I only can notice it at stops or idle. heavy white smoke but it's been a little chillie here in GA. Just concerned becuase I don't see other cars tail pipes giving of exhaust smoke. mine produces a big cloud of smoke. Alittle smoke does come out of the crankcase when I take the the oil cap off but it's not very visible unless you flash a flash light in to the hole. I'm guessing it's just heat from inside the engine righ? No grey residue on the cap just motor oil, oil on the dip stick has a bronze color to it still looks a bit clean. No bubling in the radiator that I know of also coolant level has remained the same.

Correct bought it at a BMW dealer not a jag dealer.

So I took the jag to the mechanic over at nalley jaguar since it seems that It has nothing to do with the gas. At first I ran the car to half a tank topped it off with premium 93 octane fuel. Ran that to half a tank agian and topped of again with 93 octane fuel and it's still ticking.:icon_shrug: Had the jag mechanic look at it and tells me that they don't know what it is they checked every where but didn't find nothing to indicated a spun bearing or thrown rod But suggested I use a heavier type of oil and see what I get. He did say that the noise is most heard around the fuel injectors. Any thoughts guys? He recomended using seafoam in the gas tank so I will be doing that I also wanted to induce some into the vacuum line but having a hard time getting it to come off.

I decided to take a look at the spark plugs and found a big surprise. the spark plugs where so damn bad they are completly covered in what looks almost like rust or some thing had like a brownish dark burgandy color. all plugs are like this but one seems like it had oil on it the whole tip is covered the center electrode, every thing Im pretty sure that the check engine light would start throwing missfiring codes but for some reason it hasn't. the same thing with the oil pressure, the light didn't pop up when I was running on 4 quarts of oil Wich has me thinking some thing is wrong with the computer maybe? All dash lights do come on when the car is turned on.

The coloration on the center insulator is pretty normal.

But, the gaps are HUGE -- unless it is an optical illusion.

suggestion:

1. clean out the sparkplug wells

2. install new properly gapped plugs

Then, if the car can survive a longer drive, warm it up well to evaporate any condensation out of the exhaust system and see if the white smoke is still present. If it is, it could be a head gasket problem.

they look huge in the pic but there gapped at the recomended size. I'm trying to change the other three but cant get the intake manifold off due to two hard plastic pipes: one behind the intake and another just below the throttle body. How can I remove them?

correct me if im wrong but I think I remember there bieng a little bulb in the center of this sensor that goes in the back of the intake manifold on my 03 s type.

JoycesJag is the expert on that one. (or is that the X?). There is probably a stickied thread at the top or in the FAQ.

"quick-connect" vacuum lines that would be more accurately called "bitter-ex-wife-to-disconnect" fittings!!!

You have to use a very small screw-driver or similar object (I had success with a nail-set) to push inward on the outer plastic ring where the tube penetrates the aluminum. You might think it is extra-difficult because you can hardly see it or access it....but that's only the half of it....it's still a B even if you get it out on the bench with good light and good access.

Still, I do have to admit that they reconnect quickly and easily.....

The one at the back:

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/a...3&d=1301803528

This part stays with the manifold when the tube uncouples

And in the front:


https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/a...1&d=1301803749

Sorry, didn't take a de-coupled pic. (In case it is confusing, we are looking at a mirror held under the vacuum fitting, with the throttle body removed for clarity)

I see what looks like a ring around the pipe that connects in to the intake, am I supposed to compress the ring from two sides or pry it out the intake with a flat head screw driver?

Yes, push in on the annular ring. If you can do it from two sides at once, I'm sure that is goodness, but unless you are 3-handed, may be difficult..you need to pull out on the tube when you hear it "click" ...can't remember if pushing in on tube helps or not. Maybe Rick will weigh-in soon...I think he knows....I even tried the little a/c - fuel line quick-connect tools on it to no avail. As best I recall, pulling out on the tube whilst trying to press the ring inward is kinda like trying to lift the chair you are sitting in....

dang that was a piece of cake the whole time I thought It was never gonna come off but I just pushed and pulled. Thanks for the advice :icon_razz:

After taking out the plugs and seeing all the rust that was on them It got me thinking maybe water got in the tank some how? When I first went in to look at the car before buying the carpet in the passengers side rear seat had a puddle of water (it rained about and hour before I got there) First I thought maybe some one left the window down but the seats, door panel, or roof where not wet. I told the sales man about it and had his mechanics find out what caused it. Calls me 3 days later and says that there was a hoes that got blocked up and as a result the water from the rain got into the car, so I had him fix it and I have not had water runing in to the car anymore any chance that water might be getting in to the fuel tank?

Water leaking into gas tank? I'd think; likely not. The injectors do make a ticking noise. Perhaps one or more are weak?

Injectors will tick like a time bomb if going bad I agree.

Injectors for these cars are cheap..surprise surprise

I just bought 8 new injectors OEM Jaguar for $99.00

I will send off my old one and have them professionally cleaned....$18 a piece and changed out injectors every 50,000 miles for optimal performance and mileage.

Rust looking deposits are not from water...

Odds are they are covered with this and ash..Tells me someone ran cheap fuel and tried to compensate by dumping a "bunch of snake oil" in the gas tank.

http://www.classictruckshop.com/club...rk/mmtfoul.jpg

MMT Fouled
APPEARANCE: Spark plugs fouled by MMT (Methycyclopentadienyl Maganese Tricarbonyl) have reddish, rusty appearance on the insulator and side electrode.
CAUSE: MMT is an anti-knock additive in gasoline used to replace lead. During the combustion process, the MMT leaves a reddish deposit on the insulator and side electrode. RECOMMENDATION: No engine malfunction is indicated and the deposits will not affect plug performance any more than lead deposits (see Ash Deposits). MMT fouled plugs can be cleaned, regapped and reinstalled.