When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Please try a 0-60 test before you fit the pully and another after you fit the pully.
I do hope there is a difference, but sadly I do not think there will be because the physical characteristics of the supercharge are such that even with the standard pully it delivers the max amount of air possible some way before the engine reaches max RPM.
You will get more boost at lower RPM, and more supercharger noise, but as soon as you put your foot down and the gearbox changes down the boost levels will be the same.
However, I would love to be proved wrong about this, so as I mentioned do a 0-60 before you change the pully (it should be 5.3 seconds) and then again after you fit the pully and let us know the results.
Also please note that the temp gauge will always be on half way unless the engine overheats. The gauge is not linked directly to the engine temprature sensor but is controled by the ECU to go up to half way regardless of the water temprature depending on how long the engine has been running and then sit on half way unless the engine overheats and then it will go stright up to the red.
In short it is a placedo temprature gauge!
Mellow
Last edited by M-e-l-l-o-w; Jul 11, 2019 at 02:35 AM.
When my old thermostat became faulty the gauge for the first time stayed on a 1/4 and didnt go beyond; during the mild winters we have here. I'd never seen this before as it always got to half very quickly and never moved beyond. I assumed it had jammed open for this to occur. I never saw the faulty thermostat as I paid the local mechanic for that. The new gauge brought things back to normal. Assuming it was stuck open would this have caused the car to run cooler?
Hilarious about how the gauge works.. This common with many modern cars?
Also was all the smaller pulley efforts that started a few years back all pretty much in vain?? Did we ever see before and after dyno results?
mellow .without getting in to specifics , i can tell you from experience - the 1.5 pulley does next to nothing for 0-60.
but it definitely sends you down the quarter mile quicker than stock . with a reasonable trap speed gain .
in my book it is worth the effort .
When my old thermostat became faulty the gauge for the first time stayed on a 1/4 and didnt go beyond; during the mild winters we have here. I'd never seen this before as it always got to half very quickly and never moved beyond. I assumed it had jammed open for this to occur. I never saw the faulty thermostat as I paid the local mechanic for that. The new gauge brought things back to normal. Assuming it was stuck open would this have caused the car to run cooler?
Hilarious about how the gauge works.. This common with many modern cars?
Also was all the smaller pulley efforts that started a few years back all pretty much in vain?? Did we ever see before and after dyno results?
yes there are dyno results posted .there is midrange gains of up to 25hp . the torque shoots up somewhat as well .
but peak power remains mostly the same . any gains are welcome .but the eaton just makes too much heat at high rpm .
and the result is timing retard from iat2 temps turns the power back down . so its not in vain .
and is still the cheapest 25hp you can buy .
dyno results also show the caldoofy J-pipe gains a solid 14hp across the board .
both combined is noticeable .
Last edited by Datsports; Jul 12, 2019 at 02:32 AM.
That's a reasonable combined number! Didn't realise the J pipe had that gain; very nice.
Has anyone ever just cut those stupid noise baffles and block up the holes out of the standard factory plastic J pipe?
yes there are dyno results posted .there is midrange gains of up to 25hp . the torque shoots up somewhat as well .
but peak power remains mostly the same . any gains are welcome .but the eaton just makes too much heat at high rpm .
and the result is timing retard from iat2 temps turns the power back down . so its not in vain .
and is still the cheapest 25hp you can buy .
dyno results also show the caldoofy J-pipe gains a solid 14hp across the board .
both combined is noticeable .
Interesting about the 1/4 mile.
I think the stock 1/4 mile time for an STR is 13.4 with 105mph. (Someone quoted a 13.2, another source states 13.8 with 103mph, but I think 13.4 is the reconised repeatable time.)
It would be good to post any times with modified pully and J pipe as a comparison.
I may have an explanation as to why the 0-60 is the same but the 1/4 mile is improved:
I think in standard stock form the Eaton blower reaches max airflow at about 5800 rpm. (this needs confirmation???) So, I suppose with the modified pully if during the 1/4 mile the RPM gos below 5800 rpm when the gearbox changes up there will be a gain in power over the stock set up and you will cover the ¼ mile quicker.
I guess with the 0-60 the rpm is always above the max airflow of the blower in the standard stock set up and therefore it is not affected by a pulley upgrade?
This is all very interesting and any comments are most welcome…….
Mellow
Last edited by M-e-l-l-o-w; Jul 12, 2019 at 04:54 AM.
yes there are dyno results posted .there is midrange gains of up to 25hp . the torque shoots up somewhat as well .
but peak power remains mostly the same . any gains are welcome .but the eaton just makes too much heat at high rpm .
and the result is timing retard from iat2 temps turns the power back down . so its not in vain .
and is still the cheapest 25hp you can buy .
dyno results also show the caldoofy J-pipe gains a solid 14hp across the board .
both combined is noticeable .
I would also be amazed if any normal dyno could be relied upon to show a 14ph or 3% gain, there are just too many outside factors, air temp, air pressure, humidity, soak temp of components and even tyre temp and ware will all affect the readings between runs on a normal dyno making a small gain like this almost impossible to verify. Even a 24hp or 6% gain is marginal in this regard.
However with both fitted the claimed 38hp gain could be repeatable.
Obviously an environmentally controlled engine (only) dyno can show these small improvements, but I seriously doubt that anyone has the money to test an STR engine in this way.
Mellow
Last edited by M-e-l-l-o-w; Jul 12, 2019 at 04:59 AM.
well I am going to install them anyways! and I wont be doing before and afters because the top of the motor is already off
I do intend on playing some tricks and making some mods to get rid of the heat. I am sure I can get the intake cooker
I think one of the reasons people saw peak hp around the same is because of a restriction in the intake so I'll smooth that out and port the intake some and use that cold air tube to add flow.
a little here and there might be just what it needs
I would also be amazed if any normal dyno could be relied upon to show a 14ph or 3% gain, there are just too many outside factors, air temp, air pressure, humidity, soak temp of components and even tyre temp and ware will all affect the readings between runs on a normal dyno making a small gain like this almost impossible to verify. Even a 24hp or 6% gain is marginal in this regard.
However with both fitted the claimed 38hp gain could be repeatable.
Obviously an environmentally controlled engine (only) dyno can show these small improvements, but I seriously doubt that anyone has the money to test an STR engine in this way.
Mellow
thats ok you carry on being pessimistic . thats precisely what a dyno is for .
did you forget about axle dyno's .
any way member quickets i believe tested stock and 3'' j-pipe same dyno . same day 14hp gain with hotter engine one upgrade run . there have been others too. ive seen the gains in times .
btw cracking a 13 any thing even with upgrades in the STR one wheeler is damn hard .
and you need a sticky track and very good not stock rubber .to pull off low 13's .
on a road surface (i.e bitumen) and with the stock dunlop's it's more like 14's.
Have you started it yet.....really excited to hear a sound bite if you can
Yes. Ive started it but I have a problem with my RCCM. I havent driven it yet but it sounds good. I may have a vacuum leak as I got some codes (P0171 and p0472) with no MIL. So im working those issues first
Well it'll certainly go faster after that red paint!
Was the conversion to RH drive much work?
smart ***.
yes i'm sure the red is worth 5mph . ha
oxford dictionary states , RIGHT as Adjective---,
1, CORRECT , accurate, without error, unerring, exact, precise;also
verb
1, restore to a normal or upright position. 2, restore to a normal or correct state.
none of which says it's wrong hand drive , this leaves me to believe left is wrong/modified .
so pleased mine is honestly ,absolutely ,righteously , accurately ,advantaged , properly ,upright .and correctly RHD