folks, I've got my 2005 3.0 plenum off and I want to put in new injectors and coils on that bank under the plenum.......I don't see how to relieve fuel pressure prior to disconnect. I have read posts indicating 2005 up has no shrader valve. Do I need to relieve pressure , and if so, how? I appreciate your help.

 

Leave the vehicle rest a bit. I believe I just wrapped a terry cloth towel around the quick connect and used the easy quick connect tool to disconnect. There will not be to much fuel spray.

 

Pull fuel pump relay or trip the inertia switch and crank until engine dies.

 

Take a towel around the Schrader valve and use a Phillips screwdriver and press it in. Be sure to have the rag positioned to capture the fuel being released.

 

Thank you. I wonder if you can elaborate a bit about the quick connect. Not sure where that is. I am seeing a rubber hose pressed over the metal fuel rail line on front side of engine with no clamp or otherwise. That kind of makes me wonder why no clamp on this pressurized line. I know for a fact that no work has been done on the fuel injectors on this car in its life. I am original owner. The hose appears to have enough length and flexibility to simply undo the fuel rail bolts and gently lift out the injectors. Can it be that easy?

(to gus further down thread....again, there is no shrader valve on this car that I can see)

 

It's been long time since I have removed the fuel line from the injectors.

Below are the very inexpensive "quick disconnect tools" I have in my tool box. I know don't laugh but, I have used these plastic tools for many, many years, from diesels to petrol, from fuel lines to vacuum lines.

The other picture is how they work.

 

That should teach me to read the entire post the next time. My 2000 has one.

 

Hell Gus, we all have been there, sometimes our "old eyes" miss a tid bit of information.

You still are one of the most knowledgeable DIY'ers on this site! I can't tell you how many times I have suggested an easy check/fix, but there are the guys that have to make a mountain out of a mole hill.

Anymore, I am thinking of updating my signature....
"We can lead a horse to water"..

Gus, you are still an asset to the the forum, and I thank you!!

 

Gus helped me tremendously over the years, as has Joycesjag. I value your help very much. I'm gonna try to attach a photo here if I can figure out how. I got the rail disconnected from fuel line, I removed the 5 bolts holding the rail to the manifold, and I removed the little retainer clips holding the rail to the injectors. I kind of thought the rail would just lift off the injectors at this point , but no joy here. The rail rocks as if it is loose from all injectors but will NOT lift up even though nothing is bolted down. I have NOT removed the fuel pressure regulator from back of rail, thinking it would just lift up with the rail high enough to allow the injectors to be pulled.
Couple of notes on this car....it has 200,000 miles and most of whats in there is original. The wiring for the fuel injectors and regulator is really stretched tight. Not much room to allow for harness removal in spots. I cant believe how short the factory left all of these wire runs. Also, the plastic harnesses are all really brittle from age and heat. I need to be really gentle with the injector harnesses in order to to break the harness housing or the locking tabs.
Any tips here? What am I doing wrong? Why won't the rail lift up and off of the injectors?

 

There are rubber o-rings on top the injectors that have seized themselves into the rail, a little bit of twisting and force will dislodge, if you are sure all bolts are removed.

Be extremely careful that when twisting and fiddling that debris does not fall into cylinders.

 

Thanks for continued assistance on this. Before I go back out there,
1. is it ok to leave the "regulator" attached to the rail at rear end as I lift it out?
2. should all injector harnesses be disconnected prior to trying to detach rail from injectors? is it ok or advisable to first remove rail from injectors, then pull each injector from manifold individually?
3. is the "v6" configuration contributing to the difficulty in removal since I am trying to pull straight up on either the rail separated from injectors or rail still attached to injectors, while each bank of injectors is fighting each other at opposing angles?

Sorry for all the questions. This is my first experience at removing fuel injectors on ANY vehicle and the uncertainty is killing me.
Thanks to all for any help and advice.. I greatly appreciate it.

 

It's been a long time since I have had to dig this deep into the top end of our 3.0's

1) I would remove regulator, as I recall it's not that difficult.

2) My unprofessional opinion is do what feels right when pulling on rail, injectors or harnesses. I think I would unhook the harnesses first.

3) You should be able to work one side of the fuel rail then work opposite side free.

Sorry if I am being vague above, it's been a long time. JTIS here for free or paid subscription to alldatadiy.com might help out.

AIR use a vacuum cleaner to suck up all debris in and around fuel injectors. Are you going to replace valve gaskets (seals) while you are into the this far? They are a known weak spot for oil leaks, especially the bosses that seal the spark plug wells.

 

Thank you for help. I am a slightly above average novice who's been able to work on my cars and boats over the years out of financial necessity. THIS JOB IS SCARING ME RIGHT NOW, but my only option if I don't proceed is to surrender and put it back together with only the coils replaced under that plenum.
In my opinion, from looking at you tube videos of others doing injectors ( on other cars, there is really nothing on jaguar 3.0 same job), this job on this car is complicated and touchy.
I'm dealing with tiny tiny brittle wires and harnesses that seem to be installed in such a way that there isnt even room to pull them off connectors on injectors with the injectors still in manifold,,,but there does not seem enough slack in the wiring to allow removal of injector without first removing harness! catch 22.
I am also afraid of snapping off an injector, leaving a portion of it in the manifold, and then I've got a bigger problem.....as I said, I am very very apprehensive about proceeding, but the car is long overdue for injector work and I can't afford a mechanic.
BTW...the wiring is so tight in there, that I can't slide the harness off of the fuel pressure regulator either.

 

No shame in DIYing. I myself do it for the reason you do plus I feel I am more likely to do a better job, I love learning new thingies and the self gratification!

Anyways, can you trace the wires back to why they are so tight. Possibly someone else has been under the hood and "rerouted" wires from a previous fix? You should have a little slack.

Look at one of the easiest to access injectors. The wiring harness should be a simple one click and slide off. I will look this evening when Joyce gets home with her S Type. Don't let this Duratec intimate you. This is a pretty straight forward motor to wrench on.

Breathe in breathe out, be gentle with good lighting. And hey, you have the best tool available if you get into a jam..... The guys here!!!

 

Thank you! I am trying to relax but as I said, this particular job is frightening me at this point. If the rail would just lift off the tops of injectors I could probably grab each injector well enough to gently twist and pull. I have pretty much reached the point of no return. Either I go or I surrender and leave job undone.

The only comfort I have is you and all the others who might chime in and help me thru this one. Thanks again.

 

Grab the bull by the horns!!!

Question, once you get the injectors out , are you planning on replacing with new, remanufactured? Long time ago esteemed forum member and Master Jaguar mechanic Brutal gave us a company that he highly recommends to have your oem's refurbished. I can get you the company name if needed.

Lastly, I think you are supposed to keep the injectors in order as which one to which cylinder. I don't know the technicalities but it's what I have read.

Get to removing. I believe SNG Barratt carries any electrical connectors if you happen to break one or two.

 

This is who I used when I did my XK8. Great people to work with, quick return and a sheet with test results before and after on each injector.

Link http://www.injectorrx.com/

 

Gus and joycesjag..........thank you for responding to my sos..... here is update since my last panic attack..

I went back out there and gently pursueded the rail with a pry tool and it came off the injectors! I then cautiously removed each injector and wire harness and instantly popped in a new injector as each was pulled to minimize risk of debris falling into cylinder. I used remanufactured oem injectors from rock auto. I very carefully examined the brake booster line and fitting into back of upper manifold(plenum) and the fuel pressure vac hose as well as all other vacuum lines and everything looks great. No fractures that I can see anyway. I put this car back together and started it. It fired up but was idling like crap with a misfire on cylinder 3 detected. I looked carefully at the injector and new coil on that cylinder and I dont see anything wrong. I decided to do a hard reset by grounding the positive cable (disconnected) for 30 seconds as I have done before. Restarted car and it was idling great and smooth with no misfire codes. Decided to take it for a good jaunt on the freeway. It was running great but the lean codes came back on and the cel. Exact same symptoms as pre-op. So I figured all I did was eliminate injectors as a cause. But I stopped for gas and another stop for food (now 3 starts and stop drive cycles) and things ae getting really better I think. I still see a pending lean code on bank 2 BUT my obd fuel trim readings are better than I have ever seen them. At idle, both banks ltft and stft are fluctuating near 0, up and down a hair each way. I added fuel pressure reading to the obd and it is giving me a reading at idle of 55psi fluctuating 1 psi up or down. Is that a correct fuel pressure psi?
So......what I am hoping is that you will tell me that the computer has to relearn true values now since the injector replacement and hard reset, and that it is possible that I have won. I also accept that I may not have won and that the lean codes will reappear, but if that happens I really don't know which to replace next. I have already doen new mafs, new fuel filter, new 02 sensor on bank 2, new plugs and now all fairly new coils, smoke tested it, gas caps (several)......

I eagerly await any feedback you have. Thanks

 

Trying to better understand what drove you to the injectors. Could you tell me what the codes are that you are getting or did I miss that as well?

 

Gus, I have been fighting lean codes 0171 and 0174 for several years. I've just been living with it, but now need to smog the car and it wont pass if the codes throw the cel on.
I went thru this 2 years ago as well. At that time, after smoke test revealed no leaks, I changed the fuel filter, gas cap, mafs, and the three plugs and coils on bank 2, which I surmised was the even numbered cylinders on driver side. You can get to those without lifting plenum. When I did this, I was able to get the codes to stay off long enough to complete all the obd monitors except evap. In California, they allow evap to be incomplete if no cel and no other codes, so it passed and life went on.
Now its time to renew and smog again....but this time the codes are more stubborn. Bank 2 always goes lean first, and followed shortly thereafter by bank 1. So I tried heavy dosing with BK 44 injector cleaner and the codes disappeared for a while but not long enough to complete all the monitors. I surmised that since the injector cleaner seemed to having some effect on it, and because this car has 200,000 miles on original injectors, that I should just bite the bullet and do the injectors, and while in there, do the three coils and plugs that were never done either.

I don't know if this is going to do the trick or not. I'm running out of ideas to fix this problem. The vacuum lines and all fittings look ok to me. The forums all say that 0171 0174 can be caused by too much air detected upstream, but also by insufficient fuel supply..

Honestly, I'm a dinosaur. I still maintain technology is killing us in many ways. In the old days, cars were so simple, all you needed to know is "are you getting spark and are you getting fuel". Now the cars have the obd to supposedly make life easier, but instead of only having a few things to check, these problems could be related to 50 different things, and it takes a lot of time and money to pinpoint what the heck is going on.

all i want to do is pass a stupid smog test on a car that is paid for and running just fine if the computer wasn't telling me it isn't.