Morning folks,

i was looking things over in preparation to replace a burned-out headlight and I notice that one of my coolant hoses appears to be collapsed. Most of the rest that I can see seem to look and feel OK but this one concerns me:




yikes!

Can anyone confirm for me which of the hoses I should buy? Been having no luck on RockAuto, O'Reilly, Autozone, Amazon, et al... I found a diagram here, which might help though it doesn't show the relations very well:

https://www.jaguarmerriamparts.com/p...iagram=4725045

Can anyone confirm for me this is item #14 from the above diagram? Anyone have other sources?

TIA -

adam

 

Adam,

I replaced mine in 2016. I purchased both of mine on EBay. Here are some links with roughly the price I paid in 2016.

Newt

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Jaguar-Vand...item48a9a5674f

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Jaguar-XJ8-...item2598c57d9e

 

The radiator top hose is VIN-specific and can be either C2C22265 or C2C29769.

If you haven't done so already, you should also replace the water outlet assembly as the plastic can only withstand a finite number of cold and hot cycles before failing. The part number is AJ811793.

 

thanks Newt - so more like item #10 in the diagram? if so, its confusing because its depicted on the wrong side. Now that I see it more clearly though it seems RockAuto does have them for $45: https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...ower+hose,2057

But it didn't ask me anything about my VIN or list any choices based on "to/from VIN xxx" ??

 

Part number C2C22265 is for vehicles with VIN from G29413 to G49700. Earlier VINs have been superseded to this part number.

Part number C2C29769 is for vehicles from G49701.

 

Thanks NBCat - mine falls within the first range. So I looked up C2C22265 and here it says that is item #2

https://www.jaguarmerriamparts.com/p...agramCallOut=2

and here it says it is item #9

https://www.jaguarmerriamparts.com/p...agramCallOut=9

neither of which look like each other, or my part in the photo :-( sorry I am probably being dense, I have no excuse; its even earlier for you in CA...

 

It's item 9 on the diagram. You also need item 15 on that same diagram.

Be sure to refill the system with DEXCOOL, which meets Jaguar specifications.

Not early for me. I'm usually up by 5.00...!?

 

Your picture is of the upper hose. At that joint there should be another hose coming off of the bottom of the joint. If so, then it is #9 in the diagram. Check for a single hose coming off the bottom of the hose pictured in your first post.

 

Ahhh making sense now - here is a better picture of that part number, looking a little less like a picture a child drew from memory haha

https://www.partsgeek.com/gbproducts...ad=47433948012

NB can you elaborate a little why I would need item #15? Is that due to the limited number of hot/cold cycles you mentioned? Would that be a factor at 60k miles? Thanks guys!!

 

Due to age and the fact that the cooling system must be drained, it's a good idea to replace the water outlet and thermostat at the same time as the radiator top hose.

 

The thermostat housing breaks down with age - I am on #3 on my car currently. You will not be able to replace #24 without removing the intake manifold. I have left #24 alone on my car and will replace it when I have to replace the valley hose and remove the intake manifold. You can purchase that thermostat housing on EBay and many other sites cheaper than the parts houses.

 

I concur with NBCat, thermostat housings are considered consumable objects on our cars. I had a very similar situation where one of my hoses suctioned down like yours did. Simply opening my coolant cap allowed it to de-pressurize and the hose returned to normal.
Check out my posts in the "what did you did to your x350/x358 today" thread, I uploaded pictures of what was left of my thermostat housing. Just over 100k miles on the car, and that suctioned hose (plus a single event overheating) led me to replace the housing. I can't imagine broken up plastic is very good inside the cooling jackets

EDIT: I don't know why everyone keeps saying you need to remove the intake manifold to get part #24 off, this is 100% untrue because I've done it without removing my manifold (read: I physically cannot manage to remove mine) The bolt heads are T30 Torx (iirc) and what's great is how well a good bit bites into those heads even at an angle. It can be done, just not for the faint of heart. Downward pressure towards the bolt head and extremely good control on your torque and they should come out.

 

Bloated hoses indicate excess pressure. Collapsed hoses indicate vacuum - something preventing coolant being drawn back as the temperature drops after switching off.

The most frequent cause of a collapsed hose is a sticking thermostat.

Graham

 

Use anti-seize for aluminium on the treads of the Torx bolts when reassembling to make them easier to remove the next time.

 

Had a similar problem with my 2007 xj8 last year, the bottom hose would collapse as the engine cooled, i replace the hose and the expansion tank cap and car has been fine since,
regards
Dave
2007 xj8

 

That is good to know - when I last replaced my thermostat housing I didn't see a way to get enough force or room to get the back bolts out of the #24.

 

A replacement coolant head tank cap usually solves a collapsed hose problem.

 

I also echo replacing the cap on the expansion tank. I had the exact issue as shown in the photos at the beginning of the thread as well as the bottom hose collapsing. Had the the hoses replaced but still noticed the bottom hose trying to collapse. Changing the cap eliminated the issue.

 

Thanks Mark and all! i've ordered all of the above bits, and hoping to get time shortly to install them... i'll have a new car by the time I sort through all these little issues! :-)

once i do that, I can start dealing with cosmetics such as the headliner and audio stuff...

 

I have seen this with my last 2 XJ's and it's occurring on my current 07 Vanden Plas with 92k, just on the upper section of the lower radiator hose (the long straight one with a plastic section in the middle. I understand hose material getting compromised by time, heat and flow activity. No mystery there. It's the vacuum effect I am curious about.

Obviously, pressures are going to vary over a range based on the design, while the system, cycles over the temperature range, and I can see where the cool down after driving could possibly cause negative pressure, it still seems odd.

Having the current car since March, I am almost certainly swapping in a new Thermostat Housing/engine outlet pipe. I suspect that

a)The previous owner did a coolant flush/fill, but neither his service records nor the 1st owner shows a replacement of the Thermostat housing.

b) Based on my experience with my previous X350 this car also takes a bit longer to get up to temp than it should. That has negative effects on fuel mileage, and engine wear. As an engineering minded person, I just want the engine to get to optimal temp ASAP. I considered waiting over the summer for when the weather cools but realized that was a lazy/cheap man's approach. The car should run as designed. All the time. This isn't a 15-year-old semi-rusty Subaru that I am dealing with. Not that there's anything wrong with that, LOL!

The first time I did this I learned a few things along the way (don't we always?) -I had purchased just the thermostat, and when I took it apart I saw the plastic innards broken and unable to support the thermostat correctly.

SIDE NOTE: What is JLR Cars fascination with plastic engine parts? They work well for intake manifolds and a few other bits, but are TERRIBLE for coolant parts, and the famous "secondary cam chain tensioners" that the 4 litre engines suffered from. Has ANYONE seen an upgraded METAL thermostat housing to replace these? I see them for 4 litre engine, but none for 4.2's

PLAN:
1: Order Thermostat Housing; Complete Assembly with Thermostat: 24018-JG-AJ811793
2 Order Upper Radiator Hose: 18843-01168223
3. Lower Radiator Hose: 18843-01203528

The expansion tank on this car has not started leaking at the air-bleeder nipple yet, so that's ok. Serpentine Belt looks new and no noise from the tensioner or idler pulleys. Coolant level has been static and after adding about 2-3 ounces of Orange Dex-Cool right when I got the car, its still right on the mark. Other than inspecting the water pump, which I won't doing unless circumstances warrant it, is there anything else that I am overlooking?

Interesting observation. PO seemed not to know what to do for the car -there were few issues and he only drove it 4k miles annually for 5 years. So he changed the oil. A LOT, lol. Like every 2-3k miles. One change was at 1870 miles. With full synthetic. The effect of this is that the oil stayed light gold/honey color for over 2000 miles, and is just now going dark golden caramel color at over 3500 miles. I am amazed - and have skipped my usual "fill with inexpensive oil and run for a day or two to suspend as much carbon, d then drain" to suspend and clean up the engine (Oil Flush products make me uncomfortable) The engine has no valvetrain noise when firing up, vs. my 170k mile previous car. Even with the large capacity sump, this is amazing. Has anyone ever seen oil not go black for that long on a 90k+ engine? Makes me feel it is going to be around for a good while!