First car I've owned where I'm paranoid about ruining it and actually care about cleaning it. I have Xpel Ultimate on the entire front and rockers, the entire car a ceramic coating (Gtechniq Crystal Serum Ultra ).

Treat me like I know nothing. I've watched a few people on YouTube, but these videos have the potential to lead to downward spiral of product purchases. Do most people just do the two bucket wash? Interior Products? Wheels? What cleaning products do you buy? Links appreciated.

Thank you in advance.

 

My best advice is to accept that if you are going to actually *drive* the car, accept that things will happen. I don't get angry over rock chips, because I use the car. I get livid over door dings because that's careless others failing to respect my property. Huge difference. Anyway, I won't rant about that. I used my daily rant quota in a discussion of AT&T customer support.

Wash carefully, with a separate rinse bucket. Use any decent carwash soap (automotive "shampoo" for the hoi polloi). Wash in shade, and perhaps get a special blower to dry the car. I've got a small one that I picked up for the motorcycles, because you get spattered with drops from mirrors and all the panel gaps if you don't have one.

Inside, I just vacuum when necessary. I'm probably due for something on the driver's seat, but I'm not sure what.

There are many educational videos on autogeek.net. That's where I buy my supplies. The videos are all in reasonable sized chapters, ~5min or so.

TL;DR

Drive and enjoy. Don't be careless. Don't go through a carwash.

 

what Steve said... and

My Routine:
1) Rinse car (including fabric top and wheels) thoroughly
2) treat wheels like paint (mine actually are) - ceramic coat them (not sure if you had that done, but it really helps keep brake dust from sticking). Before anything else after initial rinse, i use a heavy duty wheel cleaner (i have used Sonax and it is good, but smells bad and doesnt spray on sudsy -- i now use Griots Heavy Duty Wheel Cleaner. it sprays on sudsy. i let this do its thing while washing car
3) for convertible, dont use soap (shampoo), cleaners, etc on fabric top unless absolutely necessary. It shortens the life of the repellence (sp?) - ability to shed water. Vacuum, rinse as needed
4) wash as Steve said (2 buckets, good soap, and a good microfiber mitt, in shade) - work from topmost to bottom in succession, rinsing mitt and reloading with soap frequently.
5) Rinse everything thoroughly
6) If chrome tail pipe tips are dirty, use Bar Keeper's Friend
7) Wash wheels like paint
8) Rinse wheels
9) i dont use a blower or towel to dry... i drive it for a quick loop on local freeway to blow off most of the water. this also allows me to have more quality time drving :-)
10) once dry, i use a detailer spray (there are many, i use Griot's Speed Shine and/or Best of Show detailer. This allows you to wipe on some extra shine while wiping off any leftover drops to avoid water spots
11) every 4-5 washes, i use "reload" on the XPel and ceramic surfaces to replenish it's beading/shine
12) for interior leather, vacuum BEFORE using leather cleaner/conditioner -- especially in the threads and crevices (you don't want to lock in dust). Be sure to use an attachment with SOFT bristles (horsehair, etc.). I use griots 3-1 leather care. it does mild cleaning, conditioning, and adds UV protection -- especially useful for convertible.
13) when cleaning windows, a trick i learned from someone on this forum (?) is to do interior windows one direction (e.g. horizontally) and exterior the other direction (e.g. vertical) so it is easy to see which side needs help if you have streaks

(again, my process... ymmv BTW, i dont work for Griots, just like their products)

FAR, FAR TL;DR

as Steve said... Drive and enjoy. Don't be careless. Don't go through a carwash.

 

I had my F-type treated with the same Gtechniq Crystal Serum Ultra, overcoated with Gtechniq EXO, three years ago.

I wash it with the two bucket metode using the Gtechniq soap (GWash). For every 3. wash I also use the Gtechniq Quick Detailer (spray on when still wet after washing the car, and wipe off with a microfiber cloth).

Except for a few minor stone chips, the car (paint) looks more or less as good as it did when the coating was applied more than three years ago. And it still beads off water (hydrophobic performance) as it did three years ago.

I will consider redoing the application in a couple of years time (with a full detailing) if neccessary, but I am fairly shure it will last for at least 5 years - maybe more. Very happy with the treatment/product(s).

These pics were taken one week ago.

 

I had the wheels done with the ceramic coating as well.

The first of many simple questions/overthinking:

-Grit Guards?
-A simple hose attachment for the outside (one with the twisty flat options Shower/Flat/Center/Jet/etc) okay to use to spray the car?
-Interior I was told a light vinyl interior cleaner, I didn't get any extra leather options, what's leather vs vinyl in the car?
-Glass, I was told any ammonia free glass cleaner and something that says 'tint safe' could be used for interior glass, mirrors, nav screen etc etc?

 

I'll not enter the debate on exterior paint maintenance as that boils down to personal choice I believe. However, as regards cleaning glass, this is my preferred method: Use one micro cloth soaked in hot water and rung out, followed by a drying wipe with a separate, dry micro cloth. I then follow with a lint free cotton cloth (old diapers are wonderful for this) to eliminate the tiny micro fibers that the first two steps leave--not really necessary but the fibers left behind bother me. No cleaners are necessary, and I use this for all glass, including windows, mirrors, TV screens, and so on.

 

lizzardo, tell me what you would do if you could get your hands on these s***-eating f*****s that park their oversized SUV next to a nice car intentionally parked out of the way then carelessly damage your car and drive away like nothing happened.

No jury would convict.

 

Years ago, someone on here gave their method: wipe down the interior glass with a damp microfiber cloth, then wipe dry with a dry microfiber cloth. I find this works quite well.

 

yep just got a ding yesterday parked mile away from everyone .

Came back to find still almost empty car park but car parked either side of me and passenger side door now has a ding in it

 

^ same. My head explodes

 

-Bucket wash, dry with microfiber cloths
-Plain soap detergent on tinted windows, not window cleaners
-Leather cleaner and conditioner
-Wax 1x per month
-Parking.....no matter where, your F*****

 

The frustration of getting art and perfection destroyed by carelessness is completely understandable.
My tips for avoiding door dings.
(excuse in advance the crassness, I rather be honest and effective than polite and disingenuous)

Avoid at all cost patronizing businesses where overweight slobs or the poor shop.
Portly people have tremendous difficulty getting out of their vehicles and need the door open even further than it opens. In the panicked struggle they dont even know they have hit your door, worse their car rises 2" once they get out, you get a proper ding.
The poor tend to have a lot going on in their lives and a door ding doesnt even register in their minds the way it does yours.

Some establishments have generously sized parking spots and others undersized. Commit to memory which ones do. For instance my local newer Costco of all places, has super wide parking spots where its near impossible to get a door ding.

 

I'm a big fan of Larry from Ammo NYC. He has a bunch of great YouTube videos on washing, detailing, and paint correction. His Ammo Training Academy videos are a great place to start...


I like and use many of his techniques and substitute the products that I prefer. I also learned a lot about all of the bad things I had been unknowingly doing to my previous vehicles' paint. I spent a bit of coin on products and kit, but negligible in comparison to the cost of the car. For the cost of a single detail, I was able to pick up most of the stuff I need to do it myself whenever I want. I find washing and detailing my F-Type to be very enjoyable, not a chore at all.

One technique that I really like and recommend is the separate wheel bucket & tools. It keeps all the nastiness of the wheels from contaminating your paint.

Also, I will put in a plug for the Zaino's Z-10 leather in a bottle recommended on other threads in this forum. It is a terrific product that makes your leather look and smell like new.

 

Terrific advice from fellow forum members. Little to add however I've been pleased with Chemical Guys for their product line and videos. I have it all, the washes, multi-stage polishes and variable orbital applicator, the post-wash drying wax, multiple buckets, wheel cleaner, micro-fibre cloths, bug spray, window cleaner...likely more I've forgotten.
One difference from those mentioned is that I wash all wheels first, using brushes for the "inside" of the wheel. My roll around seat is dandy for this project.
Another recommendation for those unaware is your local Dent Doctor. While I have not yet had dents in my F type, the XKR was serviced, and the XJR has been too -- which body is aluminum, so it can be done.

 

Okay, I have always hand washed all of my cars, but since I got my F Type, I had to bring my wash and wax routine to another level because it is the dark blue mettalic(Loire Blue) I use the 2 bucket system. After rinsing the car, I use Chemical Guys Foam Blaster attached to my garden hose. You can buy one that attaches to a power washer, but I knew if I had to lug that out everytime I washed my car, I wouldn't. The garden hose version produces enough soap suds which acts as an additonal lubricant to avoid swirls, etc. The trick is to rub the paint as little as possible. I use Chenical Guys Black Light Hydro Radiance soap.
I use to use the best microfibre towels to dry my cars, but I again went a step further and bought the Air Force SK-1 blaster sidekick to dry my car off. It is fast and efficient and once again I am not dragging anything over the paint. For a quick detail spray in between waxing, there is nothing better than Adams. I also use Aero Cosmetics wet or waterless car wash wax. Both put an unbelieveable shine on the car. I also use Eagle Edgeless 500 detail towels. You need to wash them before using the first time because they will leave lint. I found that out the hard way.

This is my routine and the results are amazing. Sorry, I would post pictures, but believe it or not, I have not taken any great pictures yet. I have a few pictures when I took delivery, but as soon as I find time to take some nice photos with a nice background, I will post.

I have used a lot of other great products over the years on my Z4's, etc., but I did a lot of research and I am quite pleased with the results that I get from using the above.

 

Chemical guys is a farce, they should be called Chemical Clowns.
All they do is repackage common dirt cheap products.
The Mr.Pink Soap is the great example of stupidity- what chemist would, for no good reason, make a poisonous chemical hot pink and give it bubble gum aroma. They may as well invite kids to drink it.



Try Optimum, created by an actual chemist who had a hand in developing clear coat. You will never go back to pink dish soap- unless that's your thing.

 

I use Chemical Guys waterless car wash except when polishing when I actually wash. Usually wash roof with damp cloth. I've used chemical guys top cleaner and finisher about once a year. I've begun using Mequiars new ultimate wheel cleaner, best yet!. In a big bottle and good price!

 

The only Chemical Guys product that I use is the car wash, which I don't find any fault in, but I will try the Optimum car wash, I just read a lot of great reviews. I am always searching for the best car care products. Thanks! I have also used Zymol, Pinnacle, and PS21 products in the past with great results.

 

Many great suggestions and methods, I'll add a couple that I like:

I don't two bucket. I use a foam gun connected to a hose (not the compressor type) with Adam's shampoo (good suds, likely just for effect), but whatever you like that works for you. With ceramic coat and film, it's not hard to remove dirt, bugs. I foam the car, then rinse, then by section refoam, remove the shampoo container from gun (it's a release type catch); then wash with microfiber mitt in one had and spray nozzle from the gun in the other. This makes for fast and easy rinsing of both the mitt (do this often to not grind dirt in, similar to rinsing in bucket but more effective imo). Blow dry or microfiber waffle dry (don't rub, just pat dry).

I use Gliptone Heavy Duty window cleaner; best I've found for inside and out. Cuts through the VOC's that build up on the inside of the glass from off gassing of new materials (it's like a greasy film).
I use Gliptone Leather cleaner and conditioner. Like the new leather type smell it seems to impart. As someone mentioned above, be sure to vacuum/clean the seams in the leather as little particles build up in there. I use my smallest brush attachment on my Metro vacuum and gently pry the seam open and get any thing in there clean.
I use Sonax or now have tried Mckee's Iron X on wheels. They are ceramic coated so much easier these days. I use a good sized painters brush with pointed end to get inside the lug nuts and brake calipers, and both microfiber whell brush on a handle, and the plastic fiber ones to reach deeper into the wheel wells. Definitely a separate bucket for this and all the wheel stuff.
I use Mckee's Vinyl dressing on plastic inside and out. It's a matt finish. Just started using this.
I'd like to find something better than the Griot's tire spray for the rubber. It's easy to use (stains concrete thought) but doesn't last more than a week or two at best.
I can't think of the name of the metal paste, but I use that occasionally on the lighted door sill metal to remove fine scratches and on the tail pipe.

A lot of trial and error and trying various products. It's a never ending job, but the car appreciates it and it shows.